Building a 30' x 30' shooting stage in backyard. Advice?

Ralph Oshiro

Ralph Oshiro

Veteran
Yup. I'm gonna do it. I'm going to build a giant box in my backyard (now that I HAVE a backyard). I'm going to pour a concrete foundation, and frame a 30' x 30' x 12' unattached structure. No plumbing, just pure shooting space. Any ideas, suggestions, tips are welcome. Here are some of the things I'm considering.

• Windows on one side to facilitate the hanging of Translite screens and greenscreens (to be hung outside the structure, seen through the windows).
• Modern "offic-ey" facade to be able to use exterior as well.
• Metal roll-up door to facilitate driving a car in for "poor man's" process shots.
• No grid--just lotsa nail-on plates on the ceiling joists.
• Of course, lots of power.
 
Heating, for the winter.
A/C, for the summer.

Removable panels to the wall/ceiling. (Lighting, mostly)

Removable panels that can fit in slots in the walls to create little rooms (you can repaint these). Functions as an elevator, a cubicle, a continuity shot in a bedroom, something.

Oh and some money.
 
A small storage facility shelf (shed-like) outside attached to the stage to hold paint cans, rollers, handles, anything to do with paint for walls.

Removable linoleum squares that you can take out, switch out for rug squares, endless possibilities

Soundproof the walls, get the highest energy star windows so that they seal the tightest.
 
-zach- said:
A small storage facility shelf (shed-like) outside attached to the stage to hold paint cans, rollers, handles, anything to do with paint for walls.
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I'm already planning a set storage area outside of the structure, and large Rubbermaid storage sheds for paint, props, etc. But thanks! All great ideas! Make-up/wardobe, chill areas will be in separate areas of the house and garage.
 
How about one that comes with it's own professional sound mixing midget?

I've always wanted one of them.

Abbreviation:
PSMM professional sound mixing midget
 
Wow Ralph, this is a big project you are undertaking!

Some things that come to mind are:

Staggered stud exterior walls for lessened sound transmission.

Bow truss or similar roof to provide as large of clear space as possible (30' span may be possible without any interior supports if your building department will sign off on the design).

I would consider pouring a bit of curb and gutter at the same time you do your foundation to give you an opportunity to shot a sidewalk / street front scene.

A coved corner or two to give you a bit of a cyc.

Off street parking to keep the neighbors and city happy.

I am sure there are tons of things to consider.

Best of luck on this and keep posting as you progress.
 
A little red light over the door! :)


Seriously though: If you do put in A/C, etc.. Make sure you have a cutoff switch for shooting.
If not AC, then make sure you have plenty of holes available for ventilation & places for fans.

Lots of holes & hatches for cable pulls important too.

A built-in set of cables connecting to the house my be nice too if you want to have monitors, PA(?) etc.. avail in the "chill/prep" areas.

If you arn't plumming, be sure you can at least get a hose from the house close for washing paint buckets, washing the outer set, making rain...


Just some random brainstorming.


- Mikko ... expects to see many pictures of this project.
 
khmuse said:
I would consider pouring a bit of curb and gutter at the same time you do your foundation to give you an opportunity to shot a sidewalk / street front scene.
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I LOVE that one, Kev! Thanks everyone for all your suggestions!!!
 
mikkowilson said:
A built-in set of cables connecting to the house my be nice too if you want to have monitors, PA(?) etc.. avail in the "chill/prep" areas.
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Yup. Good idea, Mikko! I'm actually trying to plan a whole-house cable distribution strategy (telco, security cameras, network cable, etc). I think I may be putting in cable troughs or something, since I can't just bust out all the walls without great expense and inconvenience. I'm basically trying to turn the whole house into both a "production-ready" facility, and a "21st century" connected home!
 
sound proofing would be a great idea but can very expensive and technical. If you absolutely need sound proofing the suggested staggered walls is going to be your best bet......also the less the windows, none if you can get away with it, the better. They are a direct inlet for noise. If you live in a fairly quiet neighborhood this will highly benefit and you will not need to fork as much dough out. also use two layers of 5/8 drywall. so to sum it up....staggered walls with roughly six to eight inch gap, as few windows as possible, double layer dry wall with calked seems, oh and try to seal you door with rubber gaskets (google it you'll find the plans). There are lots of tutorials on sound proofing on the web. I believe auralex has a pretty thorough one. Good luck with your project.
 
dlang said:
. . . also use two layers of 5/8 drywall.
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Thanks! That's some of the kinds of practical advice I needed! I will only do minimal soundproofing (cost-limited), but I'll try to do the best I can with lower-cost materials (and yes, the neighborhood is fairly quiet anyway). I'm super-torn on the windows thing. They'll be great to lens "skyscraper" sets using Translites and greenscreens, but they're also a security issue for the gear.

Just so you all know, I am NOT an experienced carpenter or anything. All I know is what I've seen in Home Depot books, and what I can see on other projects in my neighborhood. But I just framed an interior wall, all by myself, and I think I did a pretty darn good job. I am NOT about to hand over a blank check to a contractor. I am going to do as much of the actual building myself (all permitted, and inspected of course). Thanks again for all your help--really appreciate any and all suggestions and ideas!!!
 
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Hey Rez,
I see that you are in LA. I'd check with the building department first. they have a hand out for type V (five) construction which is what you would be doing. I don't know if you can go above 10' walls without an engineer signing off. Also you will have set backs. Usually 5' on the sides of your property and 15' on the back and either 15' or 20' on the front. This depends on location. Setbacks are an offset from your property line into your property where you cannot build any structure at all. There might be exceptions for garages. there is also a restriction of allowable square footage footprint per lot square footage, though I doubt you would be going above this number. if you have any more questions after seeing the bldg. department, let me know.
 
You can get a general to do labor and materials instead of costing the project flat. What you're describing isn't a DIY project. You need a large clear-span, commercial-duty power and insulation.

Think about the guy who has taken some pretty good video at the family reunion three years ago in Decatur (the one when Aunt Madge put the moves on you after two-too-many Hi-Balls) trying to shoot a 35mm commercial for the new Ford Focus.

The windows you're agonizing over will often not be in the right position and will more often than not provide light you don't want and sound you cannot tolerate. Better to wild-wall when you need it. Build a simple, four-wall structure with an 10 x 10 or larger insulated side-to-side rolling door and one standard industrial insulated steel entry door. No windows.

There are, especially here in NC, a lot of companies that specialize in quick, steel structures on slab foundations. Look into this. They have fixed-cost clear-span structures that would fill the bill nicely if insulated properly.

Good luck, keep us posted.

e
 
I had a studio in my previous house in the backyard and I've thought a lot about this subject. I already know what my next one will be. But for your project, wouldn't a metal building be cheaper? That's what I'd do if building in a backyard and nothing existed yet.

They come in kits now and seem pretty easy to put up. And no problem to get a 30 foot clear span which is what you want. Columns won't do in a studio. Galvalume usually lasts a long time too and many of these types of structures have a 25 year warranty. Its also worth noting that these light colored or unfinished galvalume buildings reflect heat so they are more energy efficient for air conditioning purposes.

Many of these companies let you price online and even pay via visa/mc. :)

http://www.alliedbuildings.com/current-residential.htm

http://www.us-buildings-direct.com/steel-buildings-metal-building-specials.htm

http://www.us-buildings.com/us-buildings-e-book/steel-building/discounted-steel-buildings.htm

http://www.steelmasterusa.com/pages/RES/specials/Index.html


Also, I wouldn't do the window thing. Hard to soundproof with windows. I'd make it a solid box with no windows.

I'd have a couple of layers of soundstop board or sheet rock followed by thick paper covered fiberglass insulation on all walls and chicken wire protection (like in pro soundstages) on top of that for the walls that aren't covered with a cyc. That'll give you not only decent sound proofing but also sound treatment to remove unwanted echo, etc.

For background how about a seamless welded linoleum cyc built (2 wall) in that was greenscreen color and could have other colors overlaid on it with cloth when necessary.

For my floor, I would have three coats of a pro type clear polyurethane floor sealer on top of polished concrete. You might consider an acid stain before that but its not necessary. The sealed concrete looks really nice. Having some interlocking green linoleum sheets to match the cyc would be great--backed with 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for durability. You can put those down when you need a green floor to match the cyc and just leave them in storage until needed.

Air conditioning and heating are really necessary (for sure air conditioning). I imagine a 3 to 4 ton unit will be necessary for a 900 to 1200sq foot building like that.
 
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