M2 - Nikon - Just got it, had to test...

Spinflight said:
I shouldv'e taken some video of it before I messed with so you could see how bad it was. Now I'm giddy with the adaptor because I'm getting crip results I could never get before.
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How would you compare the sharpness of focus between the camera's factory lens and the adapter with your other lenses...

thanks,

chris
 
Here's the footage

http://www.spinflightstudios.com/screenanomolies

Remember these boxes aren't CNC machined like the P&S technik so there is room for error. I even went in with a micrometer and tweaked the motor mount a bit because that was off a bit as well. (My engineering background never seems to want to sleep).I never would've known how bad it was off if I hadn't shot the slow motion stuff. I just thought this was as good as it was going to get.

Now I'm not saying all the boxes are like this cause I'm sure most of them aren't but I think I just got a bad one that slipped through the cracks. But it does make you wonder why some of the footage people have been posting are soft. Now that we have a direct comparison to some great footage that's been posted lately by some shooters, we know it can be really clean and sharp. Great care just has to be taken in the alignment of all the components. This just isn't something you can just slap on and go.

Here's now my final hardmount configuration. My focus with this configuration is 20 and my zoom is 75. This seems to be a good ratio with the HD acromat. I get really good edge sharpness now.

newrings.jpg


How would you compare the sharpness of focus between the camera's factory lens and the adapter with your other lenses...
Click to expand...

Of course shooting without anything in front of the camera lens will give you the best sharpness but the M2 plays ball right up there. One thing I did notice was that my primes are sharper than zooms. My EF 70-200 2.8L seems to be incredibly sharp even though it is a zoom. I wouldn't hesitate to use that lens more often cause sometimes it's just a pain to keep switching lenses.

Now that I've gotten the M2 dialed in. I'll be hard pressed to find a reason to take it off.
 
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Spinflight said:
Here's the footage

http://www.spinflightstudios.com/screenanomolies


Now that I've gotten the M2 dialed in. I'll be hard pressed to find a reason to take it off.
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This not a great example, but I shot something very quickly at 120 shutter 60fps slow motion... There is a small wable but I'm wondering if it's worth the time... how close to perfect did you get yours... It's not as visible on the web compression and no where near what you had...

http://www.pulsecinema.com/M2DOF/testwobble/testwobble.mov

chris
 
You just have to ask yourself how much patience you have to dial it in perfectly. I just shot some new foogtage with the completely dialed in set up and and I'll post it on a new thread later on tonight so everyone can see what it looks like.

Even though yours is minimal, even that lttle bit would bother me. Especially now that I know I can get rid of all of it.
 
The final ring looks like 72>77 instead of stepping down to 55 . . . Can you detail the rings going into the M2?

Thanks,
Granville
 
We just got the M2 a week ago. I have 2 DVXa cameras, Steadicam Flyer,Bartek wireless follow focus. I will post a pic tommorrow of my rig. I bought the Xmas bungle so I got the RR follow focus also. So far the images look awsome.
I have been flying the M2 on a HVX lately and it is a great set up.
 
Here's the pix.

The reason I stepped up to a 77 is because male to male rings are sometimes hard to come by. This was the only one the store had at the time but it ended up working great.

As you can see, I also took the uv filter off that comes on the box. This way the HVX doesn't have to shoot through any more glasss before it sees the cinescreen.

2291.jpg


2290.jpg


2292.jpg
 
Spinflight said:
Here's the pix.

The reason I stepped up to a 77 is because male to male rings are sometimes hard to come by. This was the only one the store had at the time but it ended up working great.

As you can see, I also took the uv filter off that comes on the box. This way the HVX doesn't have to shoot through any more glasss before it sees the cinescreen.
Click to expand...

Hey Spin,

Thanks for the photos and info on the hard mount, I cruised by EVS the other day on my way home from filmtools and I asked if I could try and figure out what i'd need to hard mount, unfortunately, their M2 was rented and I did not have mine with me...

I also went forward with and adjusted the wobble not able to get it perfect but a wee bit better... one thing that I also did, was raise the motor up... thus moving my focal point closer to the the center of the spin where there would be less wobble, the combination of adjustments appears to have improved my focus ability... it's still not as sharp as the stock lens, but it's definitely closer.

chris
 
DelRio said:
What are the yellow flashes in the video right before switching shots? SE?
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They are just film burns. I just thought since I was showing raw clips, I would put film burn on them to accentuate that the shot where film like...

chris
 
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