My DIY 35mm for Leica lenses...

puckthemad said:
thanks dude. much appreciated. Now I gotta get the right motor... the Nokia vibrator doesn't vibrate it early enough though it does vibrate the hell outt my fingers. So far best clarity is with my static adapter so I'm gonna keep plugging away at it.
Click to expand...

The Toenis design is based on a leaf spring system. The image plane can move on
the X&Y axis but not the Z. The screen needs to be suspended inside the leaf springs
in order to accomplish that. Any motor can vibrate the screen in this fashion without
too much trouble. Infact the tiny motor you have now is more than enough and
even then it would be running at a considerably lower power rate.
 
Leafsprings.jpg
 
Hi Inexistence,

did you tried the vibration of your gg-holder. The leafsprings looks a little too thick. If you need help feel free to ask.

merry christmas
Daniel
 
Dang it!
I can cope with the fact that I have two left hands and will never be that DIY, but what really bothers me is that you guys seem to constantly improve those adapters.
Just being afraid to cash out 1500$ for a M2BrevisSgprowhatever and finding out the real deal has just been created for 200 bucks...
But hell, the 1500$ still is soooo much less than the P+S...
Keep up the good work guys!
 
Daniel,

Actual yes and you're correct they are just a tad too thick. I've never seen any of the
Somos photopolymer plastic upclose so I took a chance and made the springs thicker
than they needed to be hoping they would not break during the build process. My hope
was that I would have the material in hand for flexibility evaulation and to have
enough material to shave away if the vibration was not wide enough to rid the image
of grain. Turns out the the Somos stuff is really flexible, strong and very accurate
so I sent out another 3d model for printing with thinner leafsprings. I should be
getting the parts in tomorrow and I'll post pics too.

Happy Holidays to you too!!
 
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Spartacus checkout Dan's product line if you wanna get 'the look' without
breaking the bank.

j, what are you using as your screen?
 
Inexistence said:
The Toenis design is based on a leaf spring system. The image plane can move on
the X&Y axis but not the Z. The screen needs to be suspended inside the leaf springs
in order to accomplish that. Any motor can vibrate the screen in this fashion without
too much trouble. Infact the tiny motor you have now is more than enough and
even then it would be running at a considerably lower power rate.
Click to expand...
So that was what that intricate pattern was for. that was the one thing I couldn't figure out and here I was wrecking keyboards and other miscellaneous items for parts... this is the piece you had to get machine cut I imagine... I'd love to see the assembly and how it's mounted so I can get started on Version 2.0 of my vibrating screen...
 
Um.. cuz I screwed up with my design? :-D

I'm going to just make a copy of my static adapter and build onto that to make the vibrating screen work. I'd purchased pretty much 2 of everything (except the screen so hopefully I can get a working prototype together before I have to get a new focusing screen. The screen I have right now in the static adapter just clips in and out so for test purposes I shoudl be pretty set.
 
I'm using a 5-micron hand ground glass, which has too much grain. In version 3.0 I upgraded to a vibrating design inspired by the q-tip adapter, which works well, but the motor is WAY too loud. Version 4.0 will use a nikon type-d with a 12mm button motor on a q-tip mount, however, the new "crop circle" mounts look great. The problem I have is how to orient the GG when the adapter is screwed on...
 
The orientation is a problem for me too. Right now my quick fix is a little tab that
I can use plyers on to rotate the mount inside the tube then screwing it back on.
I put little tick marks on the filter ring to help figure out how far to rotate the screen
in either direction.
 
j said:
I'm using a 5-micron hand ground glass, which has too much grain. In version 3.0 I upgraded to a vibrating design inspired by the q-tip adapter, which works well, but the motor is WAY too loud. Version 4.0 will use a nikon type-d with a 12mm button motor on a q-tip mount, however, the new "crop circle" mounts look great. The problem I have is how to orient the GG when the adapter is screwed on...
Click to expand...
That's a problem that I had been facing with the static adapter. Id finally fixed it by using a "washer" i made to fit over the ground glass holder and hold it in place once oriented. Now going to work on the vibrating design, that stop gap measure isn't going to work...
 
I'm thinking about using a "shell" from a 50mm uv filter(w/o the glass). I'm thinking if I mount my nikon D in a round plastic disc of the right size, I can put that in where the filter was and rotate it easilly in there.
 
I decided to put together a little comparison of the NVFX35+lens against
raw DVX100B footage. The results were interesting. The detail retention
seemed very good to me but, others might disagree.

Here's the test. All grabs are untreated.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the 40mm lens had a UV filter that contributed
to the darkened edges. The vibration is off which leads to even more image softening.

NVFX35mm_Detail_retention.jpg
 
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Hi guys,

I solved the orientation problem with circular polarizing filter ring (without glass of course). Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage. The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want. Its very simple. But you will definitely need a rod-support because I dont think that the circular filter-ring will take the weight of the adapter plus lens.

Daniel
 
Daniel Schaumberger said:
Hi guys,

I solved the orientation problem with circular polarizing filter ring (without glass of course). Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage. The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want. Its very simple. But you will definitely need a rod-support because I dont think that the circular filter-ring will take the weight of the adapter plus lens.

Daniel
Click to expand...

dude, been checking out your work. nice stuff you got there. I'm going to have to invest insom eof your equipment after this next round (ver 2.0) of my experiment. I'll try the filter ring trick.. just gotta get the right size now.
 
Daniel Schaumberger said:
Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage.

The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want.

Daniel
Click to expand...



Daniel!



I admired that design of yours, some days ago..



Compliments!!!




The only thing I was sceptical/had questions about..

Can you mount 72mm achromat directly to that VH-72ND and than to the

camcorder... or you need some 72mm tube ( which one? ) to make larger

distance between GG holder and achromat / camcorder ?



Cheers:beer:


david


.
 
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