RoweCine Dolly kits now for sale!
- Thread starter Jarred Land
- Start date
dbarak
Well-known member
Hi Neil,
With a 4'/32 wheel kit, do you think the assembly would be strong enough to ride on a flat surface (linoleum, for example) without using track? I would guess that the biggest potential problem that could present would be permanent distortion or worse of the wheels themselves.
Dave
With a 4'/32 wheel kit, do you think the assembly would be strong enough to ride on a flat surface (linoleum, for example) without using track? I would guess that the biggest potential problem that could present would be permanent distortion or worse of the wheels themselves.
Dave
..sure, you could ride it on a flat surface if you wanted to, but we dont support it. i think for the most part you would find that surfaces that appear to be flat really arent that flat or free or imperfections, which would cause a dissappointing ride (espescially on any lense with some length to it). even using a typical russian/western/doorway pneumatic tire dolly i think you'd find that it requires a dance floor pretty often. but if the surface really is pretty smoth and even overall, i also think youd be amazed at how quick and easy it is to throw down some PVC tracks and get a rock solid, straight, and repeatable shot.
chris f
Veteran
here's my first shots with my rowe cine dolly i just bought. i have the 24 wheel 4' kit:
https://oncourse.iu.edu/access/content/user/cafranci/dollytest_francis.mov
https://oncourse.iu.edu/access/content/user/cafranci/dollytest_francis.mov
dbarak,
i cant see the diagram, the image isnt loading for me. however, if the question is pertaining as to what the width of the track is from rail to rail, it would depend on how wide of a dolly the owner makes but its likely going to be at or pretty near to 23".
cris f,
isnt it just amazing how a smooth dolly tracking motion can turn something plain into something interesting and cinematic. then once you add in pushes and pulls , pivots, ect. you begin to realize how large the precentage is of a typical film that is shot from a dolly, and why.. because you can reveal or hide, intesify or relax, compress or decompress, personalize or make impersonal, follow action or remove from action, flow through or move around scenes, and so on ..with any given shot. anyway, i thought your dolly test shots were pretty neat to watch, and wanted to thank you for posting them for people to view. happy shooting!
i cant see the diagram, the image isnt loading for me. however, if the question is pertaining as to what the width of the track is from rail to rail, it would depend on how wide of a dolly the owner makes but its likely going to be at or pretty near to 23".
cris f,
isnt it just amazing how a smooth dolly tracking motion can turn something plain into something interesting and cinematic. then once you add in pushes and pulls , pivots, ect. you begin to realize how large the precentage is of a typical film that is shot from a dolly, and why.. because you can reveal or hide, intesify or relax, compress or decompress, personalize or make impersonal, follow action or remove from action, flow through or move around scenes, and so on ..with any given shot. anyway, i thought your dolly test shots were pretty neat to watch, and wanted to thank you for posting them for people to view. happy shooting!
END OF SUMMER SPECIAL! ALL ORDERS FOR CINE DOLLY WHEEL KITS ONLY WILL RECIEVE 10.00 OFF THE ORDER FROM 9-24-06 THROUGH 9-30-06.
:to recieve special discount, simply place your order during the promotional time period at full price, and we will refund you the 10.00 when processing your order.
Just a small thank you from us to you, and we hope that your projects go well.
Happy shooting!
-Rowe Cine LLC
:to recieve special discount, simply place your order during the promotional time period at full price, and we will refund you the 10.00 when processing your order.
Just a small thank you from us to you, and we hope that your projects go well.
Happy shooting!
-Rowe Cine LLC
Joshua Provost
Veteran
What do you mean trouble tapping? What are you using for coupling? Trouble cutting into the PVC? Too tight or too loose?
If you're working with 1" PVC, bear in mind there are various interior thicknesses available. There were two thicknesses available at the Lowe's I bought my PVC at, and I opted for the thicker one, which fit the couplers nicely.
If you're working with 1" PVC, bear in mind there are various interior thicknesses available. There were two thicknesses available at the Lowe's I bought my PVC at, and I opted for the thicker one, which fit the couplers nicely.
chris f
Veteran
I mean creating a thread inside the pvc (I'm using 1.5 inch schedule 40) so that you can use threaded pipe nipples to connect 2 pieces of pvc together as the instructions say. maybe i'm stupid or not using the right tools but I can't get a thread started inside the pvc, i can get a couple turns in and then it gets too tight and won't budge
the little included connectors are for 1" sch 40 PVC , although im sure you can get some for 1.5 inch as well. (keep in mind that the actual outside diameter of schedule 40 materials isnt necessarily the same as its denoted size.. for example 3/4" schedule 40 steel pipe is apx 1.05" in outside diameter)
for creating the threads, i personally just use a crescent wrench. it would likely make it easier to have someone else hold the track while you turn the threads. it should generally only gets pretty difficult when the tap (end cap) is almost all the way in to the end of the threaded portion. what you should do is back the tap back out, and let some of the loose materials created inside the track fall out, and then thread the tap in again along the same threads created. each time you will be able to get a little further, until it can be inserted rather easily. all said and done, it should take about 2-5 minutes to tap an end, pending on how much force can be applied with insertion turns, and how quick your turning. just be sure to tap nice and straight, and to wear the threads in to the point of easy insertion because otherwise the connections could be crooked, or the connectors could be putting too much outward force on the track and causing it to slightly swell/buldge at the connections.
for creating the threads, i personally just use a crescent wrench. it would likely make it easier to have someone else hold the track while you turn the threads. it should generally only gets pretty difficult when the tap (end cap) is almost all the way in to the end of the threaded portion. what you should do is back the tap back out, and let some of the loose materials created inside the track fall out, and then thread the tap in again along the same threads created. each time you will be able to get a little further, until it can be inserted rather easily. all said and done, it should take about 2-5 minutes to tap an end, pending on how much force can be applied with insertion turns, and how quick your turning. just be sure to tap nice and straight, and to wear the threads in to the point of easy insertion because otherwise the connections could be crooked, or the connectors could be putting too much outward force on the track and causing it to slightly swell/buldge at the connections.
