Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Zakaree, my guess is that your hot spot is caused from the AOL case not diffusing the light well enough. When the focusing element does not diffuse the light enough, it won't matter how far you put the GG from the camera or how strong of a condenser you use... the hot spot will still be there. I say this based on my own tests with the AOL case and other transparent plastics.

With that being said, I am using the same plano-convex that is found in the various Nikon F3 series focusing screens (the D screen being one of them). The plano-convex does help, but it does very little in comparison to what changing the grain of the GG will do. The finer the GG, the less diffusion; and the rougher the GG, the more diffusion. Of course, if the GG surface is too rough, then enters the problem of grain... even with non-static adapters.
 
Ordered all the parts on ebay and amazon marketplace, am now taking bets to see if my next post is "check out this awesome footage" or "what the heck do you screw this thing into"
 
DerrickTempleton said:
Ordered all the parts on ebay and amazon marketplace, am now taking bets to see if my next post is "check out this awesome footage" or "what the heck do you screw this thing into"
Click to expand...

lol. Depends on your luck I guess. Hey, I grew up in Los Alamos, NM by the way.
 
Ed35 Mount: I'm terrified of ruining the threads on the DVX because when I'm on the field shooting I can picture myself screwing and unscrewing the ed35 to get the look that I want. Is there a way to improve on the design the way the 35mm canon lens mount work on the canon lens? I love the quick twist motion that the adapter has to offer but It's design is to protect the PVC and the JB weld not so much on the DVX. I'm no seasoned DIYer but does anybody have an idea on designing something that keeps the cokin on the DVX but I can remove the ed35 on the fly?
 
ep19 said:
Ed35 Mount: I'm terrified of ruining the threads on the DVX because when I'm on the field shooting I can picture myself screwing and unscrewing the ed35 to get the look that I want. Is there a way to improve on the design the way the 35mm canon lens mount work on the canon lens? I love the quick twist motion that the adapter has to offer but It's design is to protect the PVC and the JB weld not so much on the DVX. I'm no seasoned DIYer but does anybody have an idea on designing something that keeps the cokin on the DVX but I can remove the ed35 on the fly?
Click to expand...

Well, I can't really say how to do this with the Ed35, but with my design the main adapter tube screws into a 72mm-58mm stepdown ring. So if I want to take the adapter off, I just unscrew the main body and leave the stepdown ring on the DVX. This lets me use the DVX just fine, and saves me from screwing and unscrewing the stepdown ring from the DVX threads. Just an idea.
 
I got the co+7 today! I noticed that it has a threading for maybe a 58mm. The problem is that when I screwed the asian +2 it didn't fit onto the DVX....So to make it really fit I jammed the CO+7 deeper into the male adapter and now I can't get it out. It works great at Z75 - MF19 with the top of the focus screen visible. Workin' on some grabs for the next post.
 
here's the same clips of the 35mm adapter with an increase scale plus bigger screen for your much needed critical suggestions. I took out the UV filters to have less glass based on Marlene's opinion. Would WD40 hurt my CO+7?
short test
 
before I go order one, can I get a quick confirmation that the Cavision RS-15IIM will work fine with this diy adapter and eventually a follow focus?

Also I noticed B&H sells the Cavision 1525 which is the same thing but $20 less, it has no plate. I already have a mini dv plate, is the one with the cavision some special one for attaching the rods, or will the plate I already have suffice?
 
shamsheed:
That was a small mirror that attaches to the lcd door and is angled in such a way that reflects the image right side up. But it only solves 1/2 of the problem in composing 35mm adapter images: flipping the image horizontally. You still need to flip it vertically. Helps out somewhat, but I have gotten so used to watching in reverse, that I dont need it anymore.

Derrick:
I use the Cavision RS15IIM, but the optional lens support that Cavision makes for this rig doesnt quite reach the adapter, and so I have had to make my own. I also sold some (when Ihad the time to make them).

Ep19:
WD40 could damage the coatings on the CO, so I wouldnt use it. If it is jammed in the PVC and you want it out you will have to do what I did once, go to HD and get a hacksaw blade and saw the plastic off. Place one cut down the side and then open it up like a clam. The CO will pop out and you need to buy another PVC adapter part.
 
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This thread has been great! I've enjoyed all information, test footage and the video tutorials.

I've put together my own 35mm adapter. I almost have it to where it works the way I'd like it to, so I did a couple of quick tests the other night. Here are my first tests. I am using PVC parts, 72mm Asian +10 Macro, Canon Ee-A Focusing Screen, and a Canon 50mm 1.8 EF lens grip taped to the end of the PVC. I'm not using a lens mount at this point because all my lens are EOS. I'm new to the camera as well, so I don't know what the camera settings were other than the stock F6 24pa dial setting.

In the following clips I compare the 35mm adapter to no adapter so I could see how much light loss there was. I did not have extra lighting, use color correction, or boost gain.

right-click and Save As...
Interior Night Florescent Light (51 sec., 4.10mb, WMV)

Exterior Night Parking Lot (17 sec., 1.60mb, WMV )


storm35_01.jpg



storm35_02.jpg



storm35_03.jpg
 
The footage looks pretty good. Seems to be evenly lit across the screen. The two problems I am seeing (and they stem from the same component) is the edge smearing and chromatic aberration. Both are from the asian macro you are using. I know because I've used them before. :D Replace that with an achromat and you'll have a really nice image. Light loss seemed minimal (to be expected from the Ee-A) and the image seemed sharp enough. Nice work and good luck! :thumbup:
 
ovjamaica said:
The footage looks pretty good. Seems to be evenly lit across the screen. The two problems I am seeing (and they stem from the same component) is the edge smearing and chromatic aberration. Both are from the asian macro you are using. I know because I've used them before. :D Replace that with an achromat and you'll have a really nice image. Light loss seemed minimal (to be expected from the Ee-A) and the image seemed sharp enough. Nice work and good luck! :thumbup:
Click to expand...


i agree.. i had the same smearing problem in the edges. once i got the achromat it all went away... (im using the CO+7 and the cannon boost)
 
Ed: Thanks for the tip on sawing my adapter in half :) I might just leave it on I like the results. I'll probably try on building another one out of nikon lens and see what is all the hype. This adapter is like the best toy ever. I can't thank you guys enough!

Ovajamaica: Thanks for the ideas on the threading..I might use it on the nikon lens.

So...how you like me now?

photoep35mm.png

photofocus35.png

photohalf35.png

photothree35.png


More shaky handheld footage! .WMV ep35 on BBQ take out
And another ......................... .MOV dialogue test
 
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