Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

yes!!! success

this is my moving adaptor with my last beattie screen on the plane, got the right flange distance, (took me about 3 hours of moving the screen on the syringe).

Picture%20015.jpg
Picture%20016.jpg


threw out the nikon d because the nicks where very deep on the ground glass side, but the condenser is still good. maybe I'll rid my condenser in the near future.

anyway I am powering the motor with 4 AAA batteries running in a parallel circuit with a 4.5 watt LED, ( the red thing sticking out the side.

so far i had not tested it yet, but I know for sure I will be at least one stop brighter with the beattie over the nikon type D.

on another note, this adapter will be tested with the DIY shoulder brace with the HVX shown with a crappy asian macro, better pictures when i have my digital camera back and also HD test footage soon once I decided where to show the sad P2 card I have.

Picture%20017.jpg
Picture%20018.jpg

phally
 
zakaree said:
you know there a focusing circle on that screen right?
Click to expand...
Actually, it's COMPLETELY matte. No focusing circle, no marks of any kind.

I have posted some footage HERE.

In some shots where there's a regular pattern (like a screen in a window) you can see some moire'ing where it interacts with the fresnel pattern on the back of the focusing screen.
 
wjm said:
Actually, it's COMPLETELY matte. No focusing circle, no marks of any kind.

I have posted some footage HERE.

In some shots where there's a regular pattern (like a screen in a window) you can see some moire'ing where it interacts with the fresnel pattern on the back of the focusing screen.
Click to expand...

my appologies.. i have been lacking on the focus screen topics. im still stuck on the aol screen.. but i have it in a vibrating adapter so im happy.. but if i can get less light loss then ill look into the new ideas
 
ep19 said:
zackaree: whatever happened to the deli container? did it work?
plasticdeli.png
Click to expand...

i tried it out pre vibrating adapter i made.. and it worked minus some slight scratches.. but i bet it would work perfectly in my new design.. i should try it out again.. the beer cup idea sucked kinda because of the bend factor and it causes blurries on the sides.. but the bottom of the deli cup such as the picture far right, would work good. right now i want to get less light loss.. im using a cannon 100 and a co+7...
 
hey guys... snodart and ed especially.. but to everyone... im just trying to get a general concensus on what everyones zoom and focus level is at on their camera?

im using two lenses.. nikon nikkor 50mm 1:2 and a micro-nikkor 55mm 1:2.8


my zoom setting is Z83 -85 and my focus setting is at 31

is this the general ballpark for most of you guys?
 
Edweirdo said:
All the ones I have made have stayed approx around Z75 and MF15
Click to expand...


what am i doing wrong? i dont get it

i might be zooming in far because i dont have a condensor and im basically zooming into the hot spot... i dont know
 
ovjamaica: that sounds about right-

zakaree, you should consider using a condenser, without it you have to zoom in much farther than you need to to avoid hotspots
 
Edweirdo said:
ovjamaica: that sounds about right-

zakaree, you should consider using a condenser, without it you have to zoom in much farther than you need to to avoid hotspots
Click to expand...

figured that was my problem.. do you have any ideas for condensors? right now im using the dvd screen (i need the lighter screen for my vibrating motor) the nikon screens wouldnt work out as much.. although i do have a weird plastic nikon screen.. i believe from a digital nikon.. but when i tried it a while back in my static design it had weird rainbowish colors going on and crazy hot spotting.. so basically i need a condensor to throw up in front of the screen but not attached..
 
zakaree: are you the one that used another female adapter as a lens mount?

everyone: is there a link on the theory behind distances between macro to ground
glass to lens --Ed's recipe is cokin ring to GG = 45mm and GG to mount
35mm plus or minus 3. How do you arrive at those numbers if you were to
build something twice as big or ten times that?
 
ep19 said:
zakaree: are you the one that used another female adapter as a lens mount?

everyone: is there a link on the theory behind distances between macro to ground
glass to lens --Ed's recipe is cokin ring to GG = 45mm and GG to mount
35mm plus or minus 3. How do you arrive at those numbers if you were to
build something twice as big or ten times that?
Click to expand...
lens mount - female-male (inside the male is the vibrating focus screen, motor, and battery) then cannon 100 step down ring-then co +7-step up ring
 
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doesnt look pretty on the inside but it works good

sorry about the size. i dont have photoshop on the computer im at
 
wjm said:
Actually, it's COMPLETELY matte. No focusing circle, no marks of any kind.

I have posted some footage HERE.

In some shots where there's a regular pattern (like a screen in a window) you can see some moire'ing where it interacts with the fresnel pattern on the back of the focusing screen.
Click to expand...


It's great video well edited would make a great comercial in Japan for some green tea but where is the shallower depth of field that I probably could achieve without using the adapter?
 
Thanks for the compliment. I am still learning how to use this, so positive feedback is great and keeps me going.

I think the two skills I have needed the most on this project are PATIENCE and TENACITY. Even if you had all the parts layed out in front of you, with a diagram, I still don't think it would be wise to attempt to build one of these in a day (and expect great results). The slow process of understanding how it all goes together (mostly through trial and error) aids you in getting the best possible look out of the thing.

Regarding the TEA.MOV video, you certainly could achieve the same DOF with the standard DVX lens, but not in that room - it's way too small for you to be able to zoom in the required amount. At the necessary wide angles, everything might be in fairly sharp focus.

However, I agree with you that the DOF effect in that video is minimal.; The video was not a planned shoot (unless five minutes thinking about it while hauling out my equipment can be called "planned") but that was intentional - I was testing light sensitivity, ease of maintaining focus, and grain visibility at smaller apertures. Extremely shallow DOF for it's own sake doesn't interest me too much, but certainly when it's done extremely well, my jaw drops just like anybody else's.

I think more than the DOF is the smooth, silky image, and the amazingly pointy reflections on cars, chrome, etc. It just has a different and more old school film aesthetic than standard video on a 1/3" CCD. I remember the first time I saw a grainy image appear in the LCD of of one of my first half-hearted attempts at an adapter, I got a little excited, thinking about the possibilities, how this seemed to "level the playing field somewhat", etc, etc.

IMHO.

YMMV.
 
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BTW, I just ordered a 28mm Minolta lens - what problems do you guys face (if any) with using wider angle lenses than the standard 50mm? it's a MINOLTA W ROKKOR-X MD 28MM 28 mm WIDE ANGLE CAMERA LENS. Are you guys using lenses any wider than this typically? For zoom, I think I will stick with the stock DVX lens, unless on a bright day I need a super long zoom - I have a poor 70-200mm lens, too. (I don't expect great things from it.)

I am eagerly awaiting the vibrating assembly (leaf-spring-concept_ from Toenis (sp?) because I know that it will sharpen my image up a bit. I'm not an anti-grain nazi, but if the fix is simple and reliable, it's worth it.
 
wjm said:
BTW, I just ordered a 28mm Minolta lens - what problems do you guys face (if any) with using wider angle lenses than the standard 50mm? it's a MINOLTA W ROKKOR-X MD 28MM 28 mm WIDE ANGLE CAMERA LENS. Are you guys using lenses any wider than this typically? For zoom, I think I will stick with the stock DVX lens, unless on a bright day I need a super long zoom - I have a poor 70-200mm lens, too. (I don't expect great things from it.)

I am eagerly awaiting the vibrating assembly (leaf-spring-concept_ from Toenis (sp?) because I know that it will sharpen my image up a bit. I'm not an anti-grain nazi, but if the fix is simple and reliable, it's worth it.
Click to expand...

i have a nikkor 28mm.. its not good.. even less dof. might as well not use an adapter if shooting through 28mm.. at least for me.. but then again im zooming in at z84... so something is wrong over here
 
For wider lenses the aperture is much smaller for a given f/stop.

Aperture size = Focal length / f-stop

So a 28mm lens at f/2 has a much smaller aperture than a 50mm lens at f/2. So in some cases (depending on what you are using for a GG), you might get a hot spot with wider lenses.

The smaller the aperture is, the more your GG needs to be able to diffuse the light.
 
snodart said:
For wider lenses the aperture is much smaller for a given f/stop.

Aperture size = Focal length / f-stop

So a 28mm lens at f/2 has a much smaller aperture than a 50mm lens at f/2. So in some cases (depending on what you are using for a GG), you might get a hot spot with wider lenses.

The smaller the aperture is, the more your GG needs to be able to diffuse the light.
Click to expand...

hey justin can u tell me what a good condensor would be? im using the aol screen but i have to zoom into the hot spot.. id perfer to have less zoom
 
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