Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

In my experiences, a motor that makes the GG move in a circular motion gives the best results at high f/stops and in lower light. You can test this if there is a small spec of dust on your GG. Crank the 35mm lens to f/11 or f/16 and turn the motor on. If the dust spec turns into a small circle then you will be good to go. If the dust spec turns into a line or a very narrow oval, then images at higher f/stops and in low light will show the pattern that the moving grain is making. The bigger the circle, the better... so long as the vibration doesn't make its way to the camera too much. This is one advantage of having the GG at some distance from the base... it allows the GG to make larger circles. Each circular patter of grain overlaps the others and also spreads the grain out over a larger area. Just something to think about as you refine your design.
 
Snodart, I have several toothbrush and razor and pager motors which, while cylindrical in shape, create the proper motion path (circular x & y, no z)

Question #1: Have you ever been able to successfully mount one of these cylindrical motors onto a GG assembly? Perhaps they're generally not strong enough for this application.

Question #2: Do you use counterweights on the opposite side of the motor? I recall hearing something about that around here.
 
The cylindrical or bar type motors will work and will make the circular pattern. The ones that I tested though did not make as big of a circular pattern as the pancake motors and they also tended to shake the camera more.

I got the best results from the bar type motors by attaching them to the end of one of the supports as appose to the actual piece that holds the GG.

I have not tried using counter weights on the other side of the motor.
 
25 mm hole...

25 mm hole...

For those who are still building a static adapter.
I bought a 1.4 cannon FD for my adapter. If you buy a similar lens you'll have to cut a much larger hole in the first piece, between 45mm and 50mm, and not 25mm as indicated in the guide.
Good Luck all!
 
progress!!!

progress!!!

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/attachment.php?attachmentid=1173&stc=1&d=1157417994
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/attachment.php?attachmentid=1174&stc=1&d=1157417994
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/attachment.php?attachmentid=1175&stc=1&d=1157417994
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/attachment.php?attachmentid=1176&stc=1&d=1157417994

Yes! I started the building process!!!
Next step is to cut the 2 PVC pieces, the cap and the second hub, and set my infinity focus. I'll have my Cam back this week-end so I will post final pics (if everything goes well) very soon!
Thanks to all for giving that much time in helping DIYers! (Especially Ed, Snod and Marlene) I learned a lot reading all your posts!
Thanks again!
 

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Hi All,

I have read almost all postings but i coluld not find the answer.
Can i use ED35 adapter with my panasonic GS400? Or which camera should i buy for this?

regards,

Zureyfa
 
edweirdo, marlene, snodart: I have all the parts including the abs (still have to return the white pvc) except for the nikon d. Will it work if I printed out an actual life size photo of the Nikon screen on a clear plastic sheet off my printer? Just so that I have something to play with while I look for an aol thing or scotch tape or beer cup.
 
Whoa... Ummm....

Huh.

Actually, I had a similar idea once. I was thinking of using a 35mm slide, with an image of 50% black (grey) as a diffusing screen. I kind of knew that it would be too transparent, but the grain! Think of the GRAIN, man!

Anyway, you should just use a piece of frosted plastic, as smooth and grain-free as possible.

This is more difficult than it first seems - you will start looking around you at EVERYTHING - will this work in my adapter? (Can I use bug juice smeared on a walmart bag?)

Seriously, just use some frosted plastic for now, and then when you've got some DECENT results, order a Canon EEa screen from B&H Photo and swap it out.

It's like $35.00. Mine is coming in today, and I will post some results.

Good luck!
 
wjm said:
Whoa... Ummm....

Huh.

Actually, I had a similar idea once. I was thinking of using a 35mm slide, with an image of 50% black (grey) as a diffusing screen. I kind of knew that it would be too transparent, but the grain! Think of the GRAIN, man!

Anyway, you should just use a piece of frosted plastic, as smooth and grain-free as possible.

This is more difficult than it first seems - you will start looking around you at EVERYTHING - will this work in my adapter? (Can I use bug juice smeared on a walmart bag?)

Seriously, just use some frosted plastic for now, and then when you've got some DECENT results, order a Canon EEa screen from B&H Photo and swap it out.

It's like $35.00. Mine is coming in today, and I will post some results.

Good luck!
Click to expand...


you know there a focusing circle on that screen right?
 
Hi there! I ( somehow) succeed to read the whole book of your tread; and love it very much! I am thinking of shooting documentary for Discovery channel about "looking for a Holly grail of DOF".. :)) ; but with the main point on the human relations mostly, not so much about giving the whole "technical" solution.. just kidding.. Thanks everybody for so much of inspiration; especially to Edweirdo, Marlene and Snodart! ( OK; it could be Dan, too.. ) :D I am thinking of trying the Snodart's design..but while waiting for his DVD to be released; I will DIY a little.. I will try to make vibrating table with switchable "homemade" Screens glowed into frames for dias.. Just an idea ( which I didn't saw in the tread) and I am using it now; when I put apart non working mobile phone ( Nokia 1600 ); to get vibrating motor.. I put apart also LCD screen..and inside found some piece of foil which has shown a very good screen result.. ( I know this foil help to diffuse light..) .. In my case, it is brighter than "DVD case" screen that I use... have smaller grain..and less of the hotspot.. because it is so tin, I have sealed it, in the frame for dias; between two tin pieces of glass that are already there..and no problem with cleaning and mounting it.. and ( of course ) some questions..

Ed, I don't know if I got right; is it "Canon's screen C for F-1" OK solution, or it showed out, that have some focusing marks?


What about Canon EEa screen from B&H Photo ? Seems to me; behaf of that photo; there are some focusing marks??


Thanks again Guys,

:thumbsup:

david



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zackaree: whatever happened to the deli container? did it work?
plasticdeli.png
 
Its the Nikon D screen for the F3. Hard to find, but sharp and comes with a condenser in one unit.

I found a work around however- its what I used to make the last 4 Ed35 v1.5s I sold:

I cut up a large Linhof Focusing GG and paired them up with condensers pulled from other nikon focusing screens. Since I was only using the condenser part of the screen, it didnt matter if it had circles or focusing marks- the two are seperate. Kept the condenser and tossed the GG with the marks on it :)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...ls&Q=&sku=31251&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

I got a glass cutter from HD and was able to get 6 35mm size GG from this one screen. Attached some condensers pulled from old Nikon A and R screen found on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NIKON-TYPE-R-CA...6QQihZ016QQcategoryZ29969QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/NIKON-A-FOCUSIN...QQihZ003QQcategoryZ107925QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and whala- a plain matte focuing screen and to my tests just as sharp as the Nikon D.
 
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Edweirdo, how's the light loss on that screen? Is this the Linhof you were getting a good while ago, or is this something different?
 
comparable to the Nikon D, approx one stop. And it is the same GG I bought earlier this year, it was only until recently I got the condensers to test it out with.
 
Very interesting. So without the condensers did you get a hotspot? That's cool that you could cut it with a glass cutter. I saw those at Home Depot the other day and wondered how difficult it would be. Most intriguing. Thanks for posting that idea. Some of those medium format GG's are rather inexpensive. Some of the Mamiya ones aren't very much (under $40 I believe). It's been a while since I checked.
 
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