Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

hummm.... this has not been getting any buzz? or has it?

MOVIEtubeST 35mm Cine Lens Adapter
t_1000020.jpg
http://www.abelcine.com/store/product.php?productid=1000020&cat=0&page=1
 
but are thinking what i am thinking?

a mirror that flips image with camera at 45 degrees? flip solution? maybe, lightloss, definate, vibrating gg? i think so

time to glue two rod system together at 45 degrees
 
I had the opportunity to use a MovieTube and sadly, I see no real reason to shell out $13k for it, the only REAL difference is it's very durable and well put together but so is the Brevis, Micro35, Guerilla35, etc........

And the image is nothing to justify $13k either.......

I've seen better footage with homemade 35mm adapters........
 
Hey Edweirdo,

Just wanted to let you know that I'm the proud owner of the original Ed35 adapter.

Should be getting it fairly soon and will start shooting with it!!
 
ahhhh there she is :) It may or may not look it, but alot of work went into that adapter. Make sure you post some footage here. Will you be shooting a horrorfest entry with it?

Ed
 
I just recieved most of my parts from B&H and I'm having some trouble. I now have a used Canon C F-1 Focus Screen. I thought this was the right screen, but it has a circle on one side and a rectangle on the other. Snodart, was this the wrong screen that you ordered?

Also, I have 2 49mm UV filters and 2 49-52mm step up rings to make "the sandwich." But the screen is too big for the rings and as a result, the step ups don't butt together? I was thinking about filing down 4 corners on both step up rings to sink the screen in. Any ideas?
 
Mike

which screen are you using in the stepping rings. A Nikon D will fit in a 49-52mm but a Canon screen may need the square metal mount (that surrounds the glass) removed to fit.

Re: your Canon screen. I didn't find any F1 C type focusing screens at B+H, could you post a link to the exact screen you ordered?
 
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MikeQuill said:
I just recieved most of my parts from B&H and I'm having some trouble. I now have a used Canon C F-1 Focus Screen. I thought this was the right screen, but it has a circle on one side and a rectangle on the other. Snodart, was this the wrong screen that you ordered?
Click to expand...

That sounds exactly like the one that I received. I bought it from an ebay seller. Same thing, circle and rectangle.
 
Okay folks, I need some help here. I did some tests on my newest version of the Snod35. The test was to check grain and vignetting/hot spots at different aperture sizes.

My first problem to fix is the vignetting when the adapter lens (Canon 50mm MF 1.4) is on f/11 (sometimes f/8) and up. On f/22 the hot spot in the center is obvious, but by watching the zebra bars I can see that the hot spot starts around f/11 and sometimes f/8. Also, the overall color of the image becomes brown around these settings. I'm pretty happy with the lack of grain and think that the grain present at higher f/stop settings will be much better (or go away) once I correct the hot spot issue.

My set up is pretty basic. A CO+7, vibrating GG, plano-convex from a Nikon focusing screen, and a Canon 50mm lens.

My main question is how to fix the hot spot/vignetting and why the image color gets brown as the aperture is closed down. I'm not sure what else to do since I am using a plano-convex (the same one that is on the D screen). If the M2 can get good images at f/16, then so can I... somehow. Here is the test clip if any of you would be great enough to check it out and help me with solving theses issues. Clip is around 22MB.

http://www.snodart.com/snodpublic/DIY_GG_Fstop_tests.mov

EDIT: By the way, I tried to use camera movement and backgrounds that normally reveal grain and hot spots. Sorry it is pretty boring.
 
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DAMN JUSTIN!, that stuff looks awesome- I want to be the first to order your DVD! How much will it be and when will it be ready?

I didnt notice a hotspot until f16 (of course it may show up earlier on pre-quicktime compressed footage). The fact you got footage this sharp and clear up to f16 is very very good. I also notice how the colors become very rich at larger f stops (on the SLR lens- like on the little yellow 4x4).

The browning effect, I dont know about that. Try another FD lens and see if the same color shows up.

Oherwise bravo :) You should also put this in your "would you buy a DVD" thread to bump up interest. I think it would do well with these tests.
 
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Edweirdo said:
DAMN JUSTIN!, that stuff looks awesome- I want to be the first to order your DVD! How much will it be and when will it be ready?
Click to expand...
Thanks Ed, I started here with your great thread. The cost of the DVD will most likely be $30. As of now, the DVD will have tons of goodies in addition to the complete DIY section. I have also decided to include a few of the parts with the DVD. These parts are cheaper to buy in bulk and it will save everybody the outragous minimum shipping costs. I was thinking about just providing the parts for the first 50 DVD's, but I'm still thinking that one through. Keep in mind, this is only a few of the parts.

The goal is to have the DVD finished and shipping before the end of August. I want to get it out as soon as possible, but it is taking time to do it the right way.

Edweirdo said:
I didnt notice a hotspot until f16 (of course it may show up earlier on pre-quicktime compressed footage). The fact you got footage this sharp and clear up to f16 is very very good. I also notice how the colors become very rich at larger f stops (on the SLR lens- like on the little yellow 4x4). The browning effect, I dont know about that. Try another FD lens and see if the same color shows up.
Click to expand...

With my Sony 32" video monitor, f/11 looks pretty good, but not as good as it needs to be. f/16, not so good, and f/22 unusable of course. I'm not sure what is going on with the color changes with the different aperture sizes. I will be testing out a Nikon 50mm lens to see if there is any difference.

Thanks again.

Oh yea, if I send people your way on the DVD for the cavision support piece, are you up for building and selling some?
 
lol gotta say snodart

with all the money you invested into that thing, you would think the rest of your equipment would be up to par :) ( tripod is one jitter bugger )

but wow on the adapter.
 
Ed, I can't get you the link to the Canon screen I bought from B&H because it got taken offline after I bought their last used one. But the screen is thick and does not look as thin as your Nikon from your orginal pictures. So once again, I need a focus screen that has absolutely no design in the middle, whether it be a circle, square, cross, etc.?

Also, I am building the design with the CO +7 with no extra macro lens. So I know I need to extend the distance between the CO and gg another 2", right? Based on this, can someone tell me what the proper distances are from each piece of the adaptor?

Thanks,

Mike
 
MikeQuill said:
Also, I am building the design with the CO +7 with no extra macro lens. So I know I need to extend the distance between the CO and gg another 2", right? Based on this, can someone tell me what the proper distances are from each piece of the adaptor?
Click to expand...

Mike,

With a DVX100B I have a 72mm-58mm step down ring, the CO+7, and a 58mm-72mm step up ring.

From the 72mm end of the 58mm-72mm step up ring to the GG surface, the distance is 3 5/16". The distance from the GG surface to the front of the lens mount will depend on what lens you are using, but it should end up being around 1 1/16".

With this set up I normally have the DVX zoom on 84 and the focus on 32.

By the way, I ended up buying a Canon 500D +2 macro to use with the CO+7. The images looked fine and I was able to get focus with the DVX, but with my set up, it didn't do much for making the adapter shorter. I will be selling the 500D for $100 plus shipping (only used it once) if any of you want first dibs. It sells for $119 at B&H. Otherwise, I'll be putting it up on ebay.

I have a Nikkor-SC 50mm 1.4 and mount on the way to test and see if it will help with the brown color and hot spot at f/11 and f/16. I will let you all know if it makes any difference.
 
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