RoweCine Dolly kits now for sale!
- Thread starter Jarred Land
- Start date
lykedoctor
New member
That is totally awesome, cant thank you enough! FYI, i'll be working with an academy award nominee ("A Few Good Men" for on location sound recording) who has done a lot of DP work in the past. He is quite interested in your product.
thanks,
adrian
thanks,
adrian
turing
Active member
hey neil, or anyone -
I think the best surface for this would be UCP (Urethane Coated Plywood) or epoxied plywood plus some corner bumpers.
I'm also thinking of routing some handles in the sides - has anyone found a good source for bumpers & coated plywood? Anyone else making decks that are more pimp than just a bare sheet of plywood, or am I the only freak?
-a
I think the best surface for this would be UCP (Urethane Coated Plywood) or epoxied plywood plus some corner bumpers.
I'm also thinking of routing some handles in the sides - has anyone found a good source for bumpers & coated plywood? Anyone else making decks that are more pimp than just a bare sheet of plywood, or am I the only freak?
-a
turing,
i think most people take the time to carpet their deck unless they are in a hurry to use it right away. between a couple weeks and the end of the summer we will also have a fully assembled doorway dolly kit available for purchase. Its nice.. ...very ..very nice. sorry i cant give a better ETA for those that have been asking ..its a busy time of the year, but there are only a couple things that need to be finalized on the product before we start shipping. alot of thought has gone into it to make sure its great from the start.
i think most people take the time to carpet their deck unless they are in a hurry to use it right away. between a couple weeks and the end of the summer we will also have a fully assembled doorway dolly kit available for purchase. Its nice.. ...very ..very nice. sorry i cant give a better ETA for those that have been asking ..its a busy time of the year, but there are only a couple things that need to be finalized on the product before we start shipping. alot of thought has gone into it to make sure its great from the start.
turing
Active member
UCP Deck
UCP Deck
yo
I guess if nothing's up here by mid next week I'll just build a deck and varnish it in a spray booth, I like the look of sanded, coated wood.
I couldn't find anywhere to get HDPE - if I can get reasonably cheap UCP or marine grade Ply (although I hear marine grade uses arsenic, nasssty) I'll use that.
Neil: here's hopin' you announce the deck in a bit
Btw my deck design includes rollerblade axles so you can flip the dolly and roll it like a piece of luggage
_a
UCP Deck
yo
I guess if nothing's up here by mid next week I'll just build a deck and varnish it in a spray booth, I like the look of sanded, coated wood.
I couldn't find anywhere to get HDPE - if I can get reasonably cheap UCP or marine grade Ply (although I hear marine grade uses arsenic, nasssty) I'll use that.
Neil: here's hopin' you announce the deck in a bit
Btw my deck design includes rollerblade axles so you can flip the dolly and roll it like a piece of luggage
_a
Paul Reichelt
Active member
Looks great, I'm on the edge between going homemade or purchasing this but the Quality looks superb and the price is very reasonable. Hell a shoddy homemade one is going to set me back $100 or so at least, for a tenth of the quality.
turing,
with the rollerbalde axles, make sure you allow enough clearance for any handle or other equipment base on the top of the dolly to not hit the ground if its rolling upside down. if left in current design, our decks should have a pretty flat top profile with the exception of the handle base plate.
with the rollerbalde axles, make sure you allow enough clearance for any handle or other equipment base on the top of the dolly to not hit the ground if its rolling upside down. if left in current design, our decks should have a pretty flat top profile with the exception of the handle base plate.
turing
Active member
Dolly platform
Dolly platform
yo,
have a look: the idea is you grab the opposite end of the dolly, flip it on a vinyl corner bumper and it lands on rollerblade wheels, then you can roll it like a piece of luggage:
Also, note the quickfist mounts for the handle, not broom mounts:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQPANY/002-4712640-3253609?v=glance&n=3375251
I'll make the final choice for plywood in a bit, probably some time next week.
I also might end up not using the rollerblade idea if I can find a piece of large, crappy luggage with integrated rollers - I'd like something to protect the deck in the back of a van anyway.
_a
Dolly platform
Neil Rowe said:
yo,
have a look: the idea is you grab the opposite end of the dolly, flip it on a vinyl corner bumper and it lands on rollerblade wheels, then you can roll it like a piece of luggage:
Also, note the quickfist mounts for the handle, not broom mounts:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQPANY/002-4712640-3253609?v=glance&n=3375251
I'll make the final choice for plywood in a bit, probably some time next week.
I also might end up not using the rollerblade idea if I can find a piece of large, crappy luggage with integrated rollers - I'd like something to protect the deck in the back of a van anyway.
_a
1 Foot Rail Question.... again
1 Foot Rail Question.... again
Neil,
In a follow up to my previous post, the 1 foot rails look great, but was wondering how I could mount them on my small high hat dolly? I can email you a photo (I can't figure out how to post one on this site- I have no URL) but the measurements are 22 long by 18 wide.
I love the fact that your rails are precision drilled and tapped for extra strength (and of course the extra wheels). Definitely an improvement from my current setup. However, would I have to overlap the two 1 foot rails in order to mount them? I don't see how that could work.
The rails you offer would mount to my platform on the two ends, but my platform would have to be even longer- which I don't really want to extend. If I cut one of the rails to fit my dolly, I would have no way of bolting it to the dolly on one end. Is there anyway to connect the two rails if I did cut them? What's your best opinion.
Or even better, can I custom order (2) 18 inch rails pre-assembled with the 16 inch wheel kit? Basically a miniture version of your 4 foot rails. That way I would have 1 solid rail across the dolly (stronger, more precise) with the wheels coming from the two corners. That would be ideal but is this possible?
I think you know what I'm looking for.
Hope to hear back from you soon. Looking to purchase 2 sets of whatever order we come up with.
Thanks again!!
1 Foot Rail Question.... again
Neil,
In a follow up to my previous post, the 1 foot rails look great, but was wondering how I could mount them on my small high hat dolly? I can email you a photo (I can't figure out how to post one on this site- I have no URL) but the measurements are 22 long by 18 wide.
I love the fact that your rails are precision drilled and tapped for extra strength (and of course the extra wheels). Definitely an improvement from my current setup. However, would I have to overlap the two 1 foot rails in order to mount them? I don't see how that could work.
The rails you offer would mount to my platform on the two ends, but my platform would have to be even longer- which I don't really want to extend. If I cut one of the rails to fit my dolly, I would have no way of bolting it to the dolly on one end. Is there anyway to connect the two rails if I did cut them? What's your best opinion.
Or even better, can I custom order (2) 18 inch rails pre-assembled with the 16 inch wheel kit? Basically a miniture version of your 4 foot rails. That way I would have 1 solid rail across the dolly (stronger, more precise) with the wheels coming from the two corners. That would be ideal but is this possible?
I think you know what I'm looking for.
Hope to hear back from you soon. Looking to purchase 2 sets of whatever order we come up with.
Thanks again!!
Last edited:
XanderDP,
I actually have a set of 22 1/2" rails sitting here. I cant remember why. ..I sent you a PM abut your custom order. basically anything 24" or shorter can be made as two full legnth rails for the cost of a 1' kit. a 32 wheel kit would require the full 24" but i dont really know what would weigh so much to need it and be put on such a small platform. 24 wheels can go down to 20" but again its likely overkill. anything shorter than 20" would have to be a 16 wheel kit.
the only requirement to place a custom order such as that is that WE HAVE TO BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE AND OK THE CUSTOM ORDER.
I actually have a set of 22 1/2" rails sitting here. I cant remember why. ..I sent you a PM abut your custom order.
basically anything 24" or shorter can be made as two full legnth rails for the cost of a 1' kit. a 32 wheel kit would require the full 24" but i dont really know what would weigh so much to need it and be put on such a small platform. 24 wheels can go down to 20" but again its likely overkill. anything shorter than 20" would have to be a 16 wheel kit.the only requirement to place a custom order such as that is that WE HAVE TO BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE AND OK THE CUSTOM ORDER.
turing
Active member
Top Rail Track w/Poly Caps
Top Rail Track w/Poly Caps
hi all,
dolly platform is built, haven't yet decided if I'm going to pimp it with luggage wheels
I set out on an experimental build of stiff dolly track that would work on weird terrain where I need it level.
None of the ideas are new, however my success with them is and I wanted to share some specifics with others looking to build the same thing:
I decided to build 25' of track initially, the current design is limited to 100' (which is an insanely long dolly move, so I think that's enough.
Materials: PITA to obtain, which is amazing:
1. 8 10' 6" sections of 1 3/8" Galvanized Chain Link Top Rail with tapered/swedged ends - this is theoretically obtainable at homeless despot, however all my local (Bay area) stores were out of stock. I ended up having a True Value order them for me, I got exactly what I wanted.
2. 2-4 2x4s (x8') I used redwood because I am a hopeless snob, and I like the way it feels. Totally unnecessary, pine will work fine and is $2.50 per 2x4, not $10. I say "2-3" because 2 is enough to make 6 cross ties, but given that it's a pita to set everything up and the very low price of the material, I decided to make more than I needed initially.
3. Dolly Shims/Wedges. Buy them: http://cinemasupplies.stores.yahoo.net/dollywedges.html
4. 100' Roll of Semi-Flexible (but stiff walled) black poly tubing, 1 1/4" ID (inside diameter), 80+ PSI. If you live in an urban area like me, you may need to drive an hour to find a ranch supply store or similar place that carries this. I literally called 40 places in the bay area, all nada.. .until I was driving up 101 through petaluma and saw some irrigation tube on a rack off the freeway, got off and found the perfect tubing. ALL soft wall tubing will not work because it will curl _out_ if cut, you want it to curl in so it snaps on.
5. Snowboard bag or big duffel (am about to go to REI to buy a big duffel) for the track and ties.
6. I opted to add fiberboard "feet" to my track ties so they will last a long time, this is cheap and easily obtainable at any HW store. I used #10 screws with the corresponding #10 countersink.
------
OK assembly:
1. Cut the pipe. You need to cut the top rail into 5' 6" and 5' sections, you will be keeping the piece with the tapered end. You should end up with 8 of the "tapered end" pieces and 8 pieces of "plain pipe" - discard all but two of these "plain" pieces unless you have some other use for them.
You'll need a chop saw for pipe, you should know at least one person who owns one, if not go ask a plumber to cut them for you.
You will also need a grinder and some files to deburr the sections, nothing like a nasty steel splinter or a deep thin cut from a burr. File the ends until they are pleasurably smooth to the touch, and none of your grips will ever curse your name.
So: now you have 8x 5' 6" sections of top rail with "swedged" ends, and 2x 5' sections of "plain" rail. BTW, the lengths are totally arbitrary, I chose to have my sections 5' 6" because that's realistic for my car - if you can handle 10' 6" or 8' or whatever length on your vehicle - go for it. Less work cutting and less $ on materials.
2. Make your cross ties. You need a table saw for this, I thought I would need some huge thing but apparently you can buy cheap little home DIY ones for $100. I used a friend's which was like this with great success:
My deck is 50" x 28". I decided the ties would be 28". If you put neil's wheel angle iron on correctly you should have 1 1/2" from the edges to the start of the angle iron. The angle iron is 2" wide which puts the center line of the wheels at exactly 2 1/2" from the outside of each long side of your dolly.
I wanted the cross ties to be functional for 1" up to 1 1/2" diameter track. I decided on a 40 degree V cut which is 5/8" deep at the tip of the V. The cut will end up being within a 16th of 1 1/2" wide, which means the top of the V (the center) is 3/4" in from the start of the cut.
Which means you need the cut to start 1 3/4" from the edge of the tie, proceed at 40 degrees down to the tip of the V for 3/4", then proceed up at 40 degrees 3/4" to the end of the cut.
The center line of the dolly wheels is 23" apart, the center line of the V cuts on your ties are now 23" apart.
Make a drawing
Now that you have your freshly cut cross ties, SAND THE SCHEISSE OUT OF THEM. Make them smooth to the touch. Sand the edges of the V cuts, sand the ends, sand the surface. If you are insane and have a lot of time, varnish them.
So, now you have as many as 12 28" wide cross ties with 1.5" wide V cuts 23" apart center to center, 8 5' 6" pieces of cut, ground and filed swedged 1 3/8" galvanized top rail and 2 5' pieces of non-swedged top rail.
That's enough for about 25' of track if you put the "non swedged" at the end of the track.
3. Cut the poly tube. I did a series of tests for fit, and based on the assumption that you have what I have: 1 1/4" ID tube with 1/8" walls, you have 1 1/2" OD (outside diameter) tube. You will need to get a band saw (small one will do fine) and make a jig to cut the bottom centimeter of the tubing off. Then you will end up with a perfect - and I mean that - a perfect, smooth, cap on both of your rails up to 50' (or 100' if you buy two 100' rolls and do this).
So you set up the jig, guide the poly tube through the band saw, keeping a CAREFUL eye on it to make sure it is not turning as you put it through, and cut it in half so you have 2x 50' lengths.
Snap this on your track, run a paper towel over it with a bit of pledge, and you have two glossy smooth tracks for your dolly to roll over. People with chapmans on skates will envy the glassy smoothness and stability of your moves.
See: http://www.codydeegan.com/dolly/dolly3.html for pictures of the plastic cap idea.
The whole thing ends up being a bit bulky, but that's what roof racks are for.
$ Spent:
-8x 10'6" Top Rail, $9/each = $72
-3x 2x4s, $3/each = $9
-100' Roll of Poly Tubing: $32
So, slightly over $100 and about a day of work. It's vewwy, vewwy nice, and can easily be expanded (in my case) to 50' of track, which is more than I can imagine needing (but then, you never know)
_a
Top Rail Track w/Poly Caps
hi all,
dolly platform is built, haven't yet decided if I'm going to pimp it with luggage wheels
I set out on an experimental build of stiff dolly track that would work on weird terrain where I need it level.
None of the ideas are new, however my success with them is and I wanted to share some specifics with others looking to build the same thing:
I decided to build 25' of track initially, the current design is limited to 100' (which is an insanely long dolly move, so I think that's enough
.Materials: PITA to obtain, which is amazing:
1. 8 10' 6" sections of 1 3/8" Galvanized Chain Link Top Rail with tapered/swedged ends - this is theoretically obtainable at homeless despot, however all my local (Bay area) stores were out of stock. I ended up having a True Value order them for me, I got exactly what I wanted.
2. 2-4 2x4s (x8') I used redwood because I am a hopeless snob, and I like the way it feels. Totally unnecessary, pine will work fine and is $2.50 per 2x4, not $10. I say "2-3" because 2 is enough to make 6 cross ties, but given that it's a pita to set everything up and the very low price of the material, I decided to make more than I needed initially.
3. Dolly Shims/Wedges. Buy them: http://cinemasupplies.stores.yahoo.net/dollywedges.html
4. 100' Roll of Semi-Flexible (but stiff walled) black poly tubing, 1 1/4" ID (inside diameter), 80+ PSI. If you live in an urban area like me, you may need to drive an hour to find a ranch supply store or similar place that carries this. I literally called 40 places in the bay area, all nada.. .until I was driving up 101 through petaluma and saw some irrigation tube on a rack off the freeway, got off and found the perfect tubing. ALL soft wall tubing will not work because it will curl _out_ if cut, you want it to curl in so it snaps on.
5. Snowboard bag or big duffel (am about to go to REI to buy a big duffel) for the track and ties.
6. I opted to add fiberboard "feet" to my track ties so they will last a long time, this is cheap and easily obtainable at any HW store. I used #10 screws with the corresponding #10 countersink.
------
OK assembly:
1. Cut the pipe. You need to cut the top rail into 5' 6" and 5' sections, you will be keeping the piece with the tapered end. You should end up with 8 of the "tapered end" pieces and 8 pieces of "plain pipe" - discard all but two of these "plain" pieces unless you have some other use for them.
You'll need a chop saw for pipe, you should know at least one person who owns one, if not go ask a plumber to cut them for you.
You will also need a grinder and some files to deburr the sections, nothing like a nasty steel splinter or a deep thin cut from a burr. File the ends until they are pleasurably smooth to the touch, and none of your grips will ever curse your name.
So: now you have 8x 5' 6" sections of top rail with "swedged" ends, and 2x 5' sections of "plain" rail. BTW, the lengths are totally arbitrary, I chose to have my sections 5' 6" because that's realistic for my car - if you can handle 10' 6" or 8' or whatever length on your vehicle - go for it. Less work cutting and less $ on materials.
2. Make your cross ties. You need a table saw for this, I thought I would need some huge thing but apparently you can buy cheap little home DIY ones for $100. I used a friend's which was like this with great success:
My deck is 50" x 28". I decided the ties would be 28". If you put neil's wheel angle iron on correctly you should have 1 1/2" from the edges to the start of the angle iron. The angle iron is 2" wide which puts the center line of the wheels at exactly 2 1/2" from the outside of each long side of your dolly.
I wanted the cross ties to be functional for 1" up to 1 1/2" diameter track. I decided on a 40 degree V cut which is 5/8" deep at the tip of the V. The cut will end up being within a 16th of 1 1/2" wide, which means the top of the V (the center) is 3/4" in from the start of the cut.
Which means you need the cut to start 1 3/4" from the edge of the tie, proceed at 40 degrees down to the tip of the V for 3/4", then proceed up at 40 degrees 3/4" to the end of the cut.
The center line of the dolly wheels is 23" apart, the center line of the V cuts on your ties are now 23" apart.
Make a drawing
Now that you have your freshly cut cross ties, SAND THE SCHEISSE OUT OF THEM. Make them smooth to the touch. Sand the edges of the V cuts, sand the ends, sand the surface. If you are insane and have a lot of time, varnish them.
So, now you have as many as 12 28" wide cross ties with 1.5" wide V cuts 23" apart center to center, 8 5' 6" pieces of cut, ground and filed swedged 1 3/8" galvanized top rail and 2 5' pieces of non-swedged top rail.
That's enough for about 25' of track if you put the "non swedged" at the end of the track.
3. Cut the poly tube. I did a series of tests for fit, and based on the assumption that you have what I have: 1 1/4" ID tube with 1/8" walls, you have 1 1/2" OD (outside diameter) tube. You will need to get a band saw (small one will do fine) and make a jig to cut the bottom centimeter of the tubing off. Then you will end up with a perfect - and I mean that - a perfect, smooth, cap on both of your rails up to 50' (or 100' if you buy two 100' rolls and do this).
So you set up the jig, guide the poly tube through the band saw, keeping a CAREFUL eye on it to make sure it is not turning as you put it through, and cut it in half so you have 2x 50' lengths.
Snap this on your track, run a paper towel over it with a bit of pledge, and you have two glossy smooth tracks for your dolly to roll over. People with chapmans on skates will envy the glassy smoothness and stability of your moves.
See: http://www.codydeegan.com/dolly/dolly3.html for pictures of the plastic cap idea.
The whole thing ends up being a bit bulky, but that's what roof racks are for.
$ Spent:
-8x 10'6" Top Rail, $9/each = $72
-3x 2x4s, $3/each = $9
-100' Roll of Poly Tubing: $32
So, slightly over $100 and about a day of work. It's vewwy, vewwy nice, and can easily be expanded (in my case) to 50' of track, which is more than I can imagine needing (but then, you never know)
_a
Last edited:
..yeah, PVC is great becasue its cheap and fast and overall, i think it works better than metal for smoothness and being silent, but it definitely finds its Kryptonite in the bending department. cant use it on uneven surfaces at all really.
Jim,
order recieved as a heads up, we've got a little longer wait due to a late parts shipment. 
. it should be getting here any day now though.
Jim,
order recieved
as a heads up, we've got a little longer wait due to a late parts shipment. . it should be getting here any day now though.thematthewbone
Well-known member
great looking dollys.
Selling my Rowe Dolly, assembled, 6 wheels in each corner, plus track, bag, extras, etc.
Like new - just used on 1 shoot indoors.
Local pick-up only: NYC or Northern NJ.
No wait - available right now.
Please send me a message from our web site www.PrimeHD.com , Contact form, if interested.
Dolly is really great by the way, I just don't anticipate more work too soon.
Like new - just used on 1 shoot indoors.
Local pick-up only: NYC or Northern NJ.
No wait - available right now.
Please send me a message from our web site www.PrimeHD.com , Contact form, if interested.
Dolly is really great by the way, I just don't anticipate more work too soon.