Offical on Camera Light & Accessories LED /Non-LED

I've seen numerous posts where people state that LED lights are primarily for ENG stuff and aren't really good for professional lighting.

To me, it seems the Litepanels are very professional. The Ringlite and the Litepanel 1X1 are very unique products. I know they don't replace a light kit, but I think if you had enough of them, you could pull off some really great set ups.

I really like the Vidled stuff, too.

I'm really interested in LED technology. The Ringlite is a great idea and I think there's a lot of room for the development of some unique and interesting lighting tools. We've just seen the beginning of the LED revolution and I have a feeling there's some really great stuff on the horizon. I really like the idea of having lights designed for a specific purpose.
 
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vidled said:
Darn, I wanted to wait until finished, but here's the teaser, I guess you could call it (and the first one is also already sold too!).
Will be available as an option end of this week, at an added cost ($25.00) and longer delivery time though, as they will be special-order:
black_housing.jpg
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To VidLED,

Funny how a bit of paint changes the feel of a product. Not to say the white version is bad, but the black version really looks cool. :love4:


The specifications says that the lights can be driven "Any DC power source (min. 6W) with center positive pin (2.1mm x 5.5mm) from 8V to 30V will do just fine." To me this suggests that the amount of current should be at least 750ma. However, knowing that there's the DayLED-40 (3.8W) and the CoolLED-40 (5.8W), the minimum current should be different for each.

If it's not too much trouble, could you please post what the minimum current rattings are for eact of those models. I'm thinking about getting one, but would design my own power pack for it, so it would be nice to know what to expect.


Thanks,

Bob Diaz
 
Thanks Bob,
yeah the current IS different for each, but we mentioned the 6W as that is the "worst case scenario".
The current will naturally be different depending on your battery voltage:

coolLED:
@ 7.2V = ~800mA
@ 10V = ~580mA
@ 12V = ~490mA
@ 24V = ~260mA

dayLED and warmLED:
@ 7.2V = ~490mA
@ 10V = ~370mA
@ 12V = ~320mA
@ 24V = ~190mA


Oh, more pictures of the BLACK version:
standardblack1.jpg

standardblack2.jpg


Cheers,
Marius

ADDED:
By the way, Bob, IF you do order one, and want to use your own power pack, MAKE SURE to make a note in the message box, and we can include a CORRECT and MATCHING connector, so you can solder whatever cable you want to use to it. No charge for that.
 
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Id love to take on that question....the difference is the degree of throw of the LED's 50- for flood now 30 for spot. no magic tricks. The quality of the light cant be compared. Any questions please call me....818.752.7009
 
hjkoby said:
Id love to take on that question....the difference is the degree of throw of the LED's 50- for flood now 30 for spot. no magic tricks. The quality of the light cant be compared. Any questions please call me....818.752.7009
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What question? What the answer?
 
Jon Oskar said:
What question?
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I think it's in reply to your question:

"Is the difference between the flood and spot version of litpanel in the actual LED's or just in how they are set in the actual panel. Couldn't the flood version be changed in to a spot version with some black-wrap?"
 
vidled said:
I think it's in reply to your question:

"Is the difference between the flood and spot version of litpanel in the actual LED's or just in how they are set in the actual panel. Couldn't the flood version be changed in to a spot version with some black-wrap?"
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"the difference is the degree of throw of the LED's 50- for flood now 30 for spot"

So the difference for is in the actual LED being of a different kind, which changes the angel of throw. But wouldn't black wrap also be able to change the angel of throw when using a flood? That is as long as the quality of light coming from both the spot and the flow LEDs is the same.
 
Jon Oskar said:
So the difference for is in the actual LED being of a different kind, which changes the angel of throw. But wouldn't black wrap also be able to change the angel of throw when using a flood?
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I can take this one too:
technically yeah, you are correct; what you would be doing is cutting out all the light that is outside the area where you want it to be.

Here's the drawback though:
Say two given LEDs "produce" the same amount of light (measured in an integrating sphere) but have a different throw; i.e. have different beam angles. One does it at 15° the other at 40° as an example. If you were to measure end-lumens, that is, the brightness at which the light hits an object at a given distance, the narrow beam angle LED would yield FAR higher results, as it is concentrating its light into this narrow beam. The wide LED will be less bright (measured in end-lumens) but illuminate a wider area.
Now by essentially blocking the wide angle version, to simply throw its beam at a smaller area, you won't gain any brightness, so end lumens from the wide angle will be MUCH less than from the narrow (spot) version.

Hmm, make sense? Maybe we need Bob to come in and explain it so it's clear; he does a better job than I! :)
 
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vidled said:
I can take this one too:
technically yeah, you are correct; what you would be doing is cutting out all the light that is outside the area where you want it to be.

Here's the drawback though:
Say two given LEDs "produce" the same amount of light but at different beam angles. One does it at 15° the other at 40° as an example. If you were to measure end-lumens, that is, the brightness at which the light hits an object at a given distance, the narrow beam angle LED would yield FAR higher results, as it is concentrating its light into this narrow beam. The wide LED will be less bright (measured in end-lumens) but illuminate a wider area.
Now by essentially blocking the wide angle version, to simply throw its beam at a smaller area, you won't gain any brightness, so end lumens from the wide angle will be MUCH less than from the narrow (spot) version.

Hmm, make sense? Maybe we need Bob to come in and explain it so it's clear; he does a better job than I! :)
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Thanx, that makes sense. It would be interesting to know what the light stop difference would be from the two versions at a distance of 1 meter.
 
Jon Oskar said:
Thanx, that makes sense. It would be interesting to know what the light stop difference would be from the two versions at a distance of 1 meter.
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Oh great, now I have to do a bunch of :furious3: Trig calculations.... :crybaby:

Ok, 15 degrees, 25 degrees, and 40 degrees; all at 1 meter...

Area = SIN( xx degrees / 2)^2 * 3.14159

15 degrees covers an area of 0.017 Meters squared

25 degrees covers an area of 0.147 Meters squared

40 degrees covers an area of 0.460 Meters squared

To find the difference in F Stops, take the large area and divide it by the smaller area as follows:

F Stop Difference = LN(Larger Area / Smaller Area) / LN(2)
also LOG10(Larger Area / Smaller Area) / LOG10(2) works the same way...

40 and 15 = 4.8 F Stops

40 and 25 = 1.6 F Stops

25 and 15 = 3.1 F Stops

One interesting thing is that the distance of 1 meter is now no longer part of the calculation. As long as the distance is the same, 1 meter, 10 feet, 4 meters, ... the difference in F Stops remains the same.

Now, having done the math, remember that your shot may cover more than 15 degrees. In the telephoto setting it will, BUT in the maximum wide angle setting, the angle is a lot more than 15 degrees. In fact it will be a lot more than Sunpak's 25 degrees. (I can't remember the exact number for the HVX's field of view in degrees, but I think it is greater than 60 degrees.)

http://vidled.com/productspecifications.html

This means at a wide angle setting with a light that covers only 15 or 25 degrees, the edges will fall into darkness. This won't be a hard edge, but it will create a soft transition to a darker area; which may not look right. Even with a light with 40 degree coverage will show some dropoff, but not as bad as the first two.

Bob Diaz
 
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Slakafackboom!!!!! :furious3: Bob, take it easy on the coffee!!!! :badputer:

And once more in Chinese, so the difference between the 50 degree flood and 30 degree spot, straight on would be how many stops?

:dankk2:
 
Bob, take it easy on the coffee!!!!
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No joke, I NEVER drink coffee, but I do like to joke around with those funny Smiles Characters. :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

Let's see 50 degree flood and 30 degree spot; OK, just igore all the math and skip to the answer below...


50 degrees at 1 meter = 0.561 square meters

30 degrees at 1 meter = 0.210 square meters


F Stop Difference = 1.4 F Stops as long as the distance is the same.


Are there any other questions before I pass out the final exam??? :(


Bob Diaz
 
Dam Bob! I hope this is impressing the girls as much as it is impressing me. Thanks for you calculations.

Now that this is settled lets move on to face two.

At the distance of 1 meter with the DVX's light sensitivity (aprox. 320 ISO) what F stop does the spot version give you when correctly exposing a gray card???

Try this for final exam!!!:kali:

The first one to solves this gets a donut!:)
 
Black. Ahh. VERY COOL!! now i want one!

Are there anymore battery choices in the works.. In a perfect world i'd love to see the stock battery mounted on the back but since that might be asking too much, maybe they can sell a battery that's thin and long.. running same length as the light itself so u could put it on top...
standardblack6yy.jpg

as is stands now it looks a little unbalanced when it's screwed onto the top on one side... I know there's an intergrated battery unit, but i like the cheap cost of the regular units.., if they could do something about that dang battery, thinner (same weight) and long (same size as the housing).. maybe even put holes through it so you can sandwich it between another led light on top and run both units off the same battery! that would be nice...

when will the coolled with the intergrated battery come out? and would i be able to buy a regular one and mount that on top and have them both be powered by the intergrated battery. just curious..
 
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Jon Oskar said:
Dam Bob! I hope this is impressing the girls as much as it is impressing me. Thanks for you calculations.

Now that this is settled lets move on to face two.

At the distance of 1 meter with the DVX's light sensitivity (aprox. 320 ISO) what F stop does the spot version give you when correctly exposing a gray card???

Try this for final exam!!!:kali:

The first one to solves this gets a donut!:)
Click to expand...
I have no idea, is this question "stump the Professor" or something? :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

I'm sure there's some way of calculating it, but I lack the details of how to do it.

What follows is a quiz I gave to my Saturday class on April 1:

ROBOTICS ACADEMY
Quiz # 4 April 1, 2006


NAME & STUDENT NUMBER: _______________________________________________

Please circle the best answer or write your own for letter "D".

(1) Your instructor comes to class stinking drunk, what do you do?
(A) Fall asleep in class, knowing he'll never notice the difference.
(B) Ask him to pass around the bottle and share the joy.
(C) Ask him to do something REALLY stupid, like jump off the second floor, and see if he falls for it.
(D)
​

(2) True or False? The correct answer to this question is false.
(A) True
(B) False
​

(3) You decide to have the double bean casserole for lunch. Unfortunately, 2 hours later, you "pass a VERY loud wind" during class. Everyone in class turns and stares at you. What do you do?
(A) Challenge anyone else to do better.
(B) Suggest that we all return in about 3 weeks after the smell has cleared.
(C) Turn to the geek behind you and say, "THAT'S DISGUSTING, HOW COULD YOU DO THAT???"
(D)
​

(4) You happen to be the geek in question 3c (see above) and the 6' 3" 280 pound football player just said to you, "THAT'S DISGUSTING, HOW COULD YOU DO THAT???" What do you do?
(A) Call him a liar and die a quick, but painful death.
(B) Light a match and have EVERYONE die a quick, but painful death.
(C) Remind him and everyone else, that it's good to share.
(D)
​

(5) On April 1 (April Fools Day), your instructor hands out a crazy quiz with outrageous questions and stupid answers. What do you do?
(A) Pretend to act like it's funny, so he'll give you a good grade.
(B) Ask him what he was smoking when he wrote the test.
(C) Ask him to pass around what he was smoking and share the joy.
(D)
​
 
I have been using the VIDLED Cool LEDs all week at E3. This thing kicks butt. So much better than my old lamp light and 40lb battery brick belt. :D I had at least 5 people come up to me and ask me about it. I rigged up some gel clamps for it. I will post pictures later. Alas I just got back from the airport and I am tired.
 
ericyoung said:
Hi Vidled

Noticed you're missing an "Add to Cart" button on your website for the pump vacuum pump!
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks Eric. Now fixed.
(no wonder we weren't selling too many recently! :) Those things are unbelievable, by the way!)
 
pkendall said:
Black. Ahh. VERY COOL!! now i want one! .
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Cool!


pkendall said:
Are there anymore battery choices in the works..
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No, but I LIKE your design of the battery. Very neat!

pkendall said:
...when will the coolled with the intergrated battery come out? and would i be able to buy a regular one and mount that on top and have them both be powered by the intergrated battery. just curious..
Click to expand...

The warm and cool versions are being made....a few weeks out, I'd say.
Don't think you'd want to run a STANDARD light off the DELUXE one though, as that would cut the running time in half. Also, the DELUXE version only has the one mounting thread, so you can't attach another light to it, at least not in the regular way. (You could bolt a STANDAR light from below, but they would then be off center to each other.)

The current LED lights are what they are. That doesn't mean we aren't developing other things though!
 
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