Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

phally said:
snodart:
I have me this for my vibrating gg-> 5, 1cc insulin needles, 3 inch white pvc cap, 72mm black cd case circle, a lot of 35mm slide holders.
Click to expand...

I started with 4, 1cc syringes, but found that they transfered a little vibration to the camera. I ended up only using two at opposite corners from each other. With my set up, they are enough to hold the GG in place and prevent it from moving along the Z axis.

phally said:
so snodart, how long is your needle part from macro to the gg,
Click to expand...

The distance from my macro to the GG is around 40-45mm. I left the syringe parts (white sticks) a little longer (7mm) so that I could move the GG and its holder as needed to get infinity focus.

phally said:
i figure the longer the needle (white shaft) the more motion left right, but a shorter distance will mean more limited vibrating?
Click to expand...

True. Too short might also transfer some of the vibration to the camera. As I have it set up now, I can't even tell if the GG is vibrating unless I check the led light. Too long might allow too much vibration and thus expose the black frame of the D screen.

phally said:
so anyways, my plane is to glue the nikon to the slide holder opening, cut holes in for the grommets and stick the syringe's to them connecting them to the pvc cap and cd circle cut out--> why?

the pvc and cd cut out makes for a stiff platform to hold the gg, put that in between two filter 72mm filter holders and all you need now is a motor and metal tube.

whatta you think?
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure of your plan here without seeing pictures, but from what I am picturing in my head... sounds good. I'm not sure if this would have been a problem for me or not, but I tried to make the piece that holds the GG as small and light as I could. I was worried that too much weight would cause the GG and its holder to sag over time.

Sounds like you are well on your way to a vibrating adapter!
 
jrp said:
Hi, I was just wondering the reason of the 58mm macro +10 instead of a 72mm macro +10.
Click to expand...

Seems you can only find 72mm +10 macros in the Asian brand, but remember that this is a single element macro and you're going to get aberations and soft edges.
 
What I did today since I couldn't go to NAB....I lengthened my adapter by 2" in the hopes of getting rid of the Asian +2 Close-up so I could just use the Century Optics +7 Achromatic Diopter. It worked! My adapter's a little longer now but......hey....it's sharp! Here's the footage I shot today. I did burn a DVD to test the quality on my big screen TV and I'm extremely happy with how sharp it is and void of aberations. I shot on 24pa with no changes to the default settings and no CC in post so it's just bare bones footage.

Canon 50mm 1.4 lens with AOL CD Case Focus Screen. Cost to build....less than $300 without the lens, and made to change out the focus screen if desired.

http://homepage.mac.com/marlene.mac/iMovieTheater25.html

18mb file for now but I'll edit it down later so I can show you higher res
 
looks awesome marlene.
hey btw.. i love the piece of aol case u sent me.. it works great.. but i was just curious if you knew anywhere where i could by a case like this.. (in case my screen gets scratched)?
 
marlenedegrood said:
What I did today since I couldn't go to NAB....I lengthened my adapter by 2" in the hopes of getting rid of the Asian +2 Close-up so I could just use the Century Optics +7 Achromatic Diopter. It worked! My adapter's a little longer now but......hey....it's sharp! Here's the footage I shot today. I did burn a DVD to test the quality on my big screen TV and I'm extremely happy with how sharp it is and void of aberations. I shot on 24pa with no changes to the default settings and no CC in post so it's just bare bones footage.

Canon 50mm 1.4 lens with AOL CD Case Focus Screen. Cost to build....less than $300 without the lens, and made to change out the focus screen if desired.

http://homepage.mac.com/marlene.mac/...Theater25.html

18mb file for now but I'll edit it down later so I can show you higher res
Click to expand...

Wow. That footage was great. Some good composition in those shots. I'll take some high res stills for my wall please.:)

CO+7 seems to do the trick. I switched out my Asain+10 for the CO+7, but haven't had a chance to get any real footage yet. Looks good so far though. I had to use a +1 Asain to get the DVX to focus. Marlene, did you notice any big difference between using/not using the +2 as far as aberration?

Where did you add the extra 2".... between macro and GG? I was going to try and do this as well, but I'm not sure how well it will work out with the vibrating set up I have now.
 
snodart.....I put a 2" spacer after the CO+7, so yes it's between the diopter and gg. Less glass is always better so if you can illiminate the +1, do it. My zoom is now at 90 and focus at 36.

Car2o..... no hotspots with the aol case, the proof is in the footage.

zakaree....I think there are places online where you can buy the cases that aol uses but they are in bulk of 100. In looking at the websites though, it's hard to tell if they are exactly the same. Ask your friends to watch for them in the mail from aol. I'm glad the piece I sent you is working out for you.
 
marlenedegrood said:
snodart.....I put a 2" spacer after the CO+7, so yes it's between the diopter and gg. Less glass is always better so if you can illiminate the +1, do it. My zoom is now at 90 and focus at 36.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I think I will give it a try. 2" will make it pretty long, but I guess if the image is better, then so be it. Looks like I will need to rebuild part of my adapter.
:eek:
 
Just a question on something I've been trying to figure out. I've got an adapter design worked out that I am testing. My current frustration is a hotspot. I'm using a 50mm f/1.8 Nikon lens and I get a hotspot using two different types of GG (one is a GG made from a UV filter, the other is the AOL CD case). I also have a Nikon D screen which works fine because it has the built in condenser. I understand the purpose and function of a condenser, but what I am at a loss over right now is why there is a hotspot. What causes that, and is there any other way to eliminate it than with a condenser? Just curious. This is mostly just testing anyway, so I thought I'd ask and maybe it will benefit someone else down the road.
 
[SIZE=+0]marlenedegrood could tell you for sure, but I'm pretty sure that a condenser is the only way to fix it. [/SIZE]
 
ovjamaica said:
Just a question on something I've been trying to figure out. I've got an adapter design worked out that I am testing. My current frustration is a hotspot. I'm using a 50mm f/1.8 Nikon lens and I get a hotspot using two different types of GG (one is a GG made from a UV filter, the other is the AOL CD case). I also have a Nikon D screen which works fine because it has the built in condenser. I understand the purpose and function of a condenser, but what I am at a loss over right now is why there is a hotspot. What causes that, and is there any other way to eliminate it than with a condenser? Just curious. This is mostly just testing anyway, so I thought I'd ask and maybe it will benefit someone else down the road.
Click to expand...

A little more information might be helpful...like....what type of diopter are you using and what is the distance from the diopter to the gg? I'm not using a condenser and I haven't had any problems with hotspots with the aol cd case screen. I've even used a DIY focus screen that I ground myself with no hotspots. The only minor hot spot I got came from.....you're not going to believe this......a Nikon Type D screen which has a condenser as you know. Well, I did get a very minor hotspot from a wax screen I made too.

Generally you will get a hotspot from the gg being too thin or too transparent. The condenser disperses the light more evenly so it's not so intense in the center after comes through the lens.

If you're happy with the Nikon screen then it's probably not worth banging your head against the wall over.

Maybe you could post some footage.
 
I've got my entire lens all put together and I am bummed about one thing. I purchased a Nikon F3 focus screen and put it in and whatnot and not thinking about what the final image would look like in the long run I was suprised when I took some test shots and I had a nice black ring in the middle of the image, obviously from the F3 screen. Is there anyway to fix this besides purchasing a diffrent focus screen?
Thanks!
 
I have a strange question for those of you who have the CO+7. In the process of refining my design, I took the actual CO+7 lens(es) out of the holder. When it came time to put the lens back in, I wasn't 100% sure which way the lens was facing. I am thinking that the more convex side should face toward the female threads. Can anybody help fill me in here?
:embarasse
Thanks
 
snodart said:
I have a strange question for those of you who have the CO+7. In the process of refining my design, I took the actual CO+7 lens(es) out of the holder. When it came time to put the lens back in, I wasn't 100% sure which way the lens was facing. I am thinking that the more convex side should face toward the female threads. Can anybody help fill me in here?
:embarasse
Thanks
Click to expand...
The convex side should be facing towards your gg
 
andreww said:
I've got my entire lens all put together and I am bummed about one thing. I purchased a Nikon F3 focus screen and put it in and whatnot and not thinking about what the final image would look like in the long run I was suprised when I took some test shots and I had a nice black ring in the middle of the image, obviously from the F3 screen. Is there anyway to fix this besides purchasing a diffrent focus screen?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
You got the wrong focus screen, it needs to be completely matte with no grids or circles. You need a new focus screen.
 
marlenedegrood said:
A little more information might be helpful...like....what type of diopter are you using and what is the distance from the diopter to the gg? I'm not using a condenser and I haven't had any problems with hotspots with the aol cd case screen. I've even used a DIY focus screen that I ground myself with no hotspots. The only minor hot spot I got came from.....you're not going to believe this......a Nikon Type D screen which has a condenser as you know. Well, I did get a very minor hotspot from a wax screen I made too.

Generally you will get a hotspot from the gg being too thin or too transparent. The condenser disperses the light more evenly so it's not so intense in the center after comes through the lens.

If you're happy with the Nikon screen then it's probably not worth banging your head against the wall over.

Maybe you could post some footage.
Click to expand...

I'm using an achromat (calculated to be about a +6) for the diopter, along with another +4 to decrease the zoom range. On the Nikon D I'm getting even lighting across the screen. Any other GG I am getting a hotspot. For now I'm sticking with the D screen, as it is the least frustrating and I haven't had any problems with grain yet. I'll post some footage as soon as I get some time. Finals are next week so my time is quite limited. :( I have a Nikon BIII screen on back order, and I'll try that out when I get it.

Also, phally's comment was a little vague.
phally said:
tip:

buy only new f3 screens, never used
Click to expand...

New or used has nothing to do with the focusing circle in the middle. You need to make sure you buy a D screen, no other type. There are tons of F3 screens, one of which is the D. All other F3 screens have some sort of marking, whether it is focusing brackets or otherwise. B&H gets them in every once in a while. I'd recommend signing up for notification when it is in stock and then pouncing on that sucker as soon as you get the email. Only way I got one.
 
marlenedegrood said:
The convex side should be facing towards your gg
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Well, I am going with marlenedegrood and adding some space between the CO+7 and the GG so I can ditch the +1 macro. I am having to start from scratch with the barrel part of the adapter, but I think I found some parts that I like better than my previous design. I will get them in a few days and let you know how they work out. Here is my plan. Let me know if you see any potential problems...

DVX > 72mm-58mm step down ring > 58mm CO+7 > 58mm-72mm step up ring > empty (no lens) 72mm marco for spacing > 72mm 1.5inch long spacer > another 72mm 1.5inch long spacer > metal threaded lens cap > FD mount (attached to metal lens cap) > 35mm lens.

A shortened PVC cap will be inside with the GG and other vibrating goods. The distance from the CO+7 to the GG should be around 75mm to 85mm. Then of course the distance from the GG to the front of the FD mount will be 42mm.

Here is a pic of the 72mm spacer from ebay if anybody is interested. I bought the last two, but the seller says that he can get plenty more in a few weeks. it has 72mm male/female threads and is 1.5inches long. They were $12 a piece.

72mm_spacer.jpg
 
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