Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

I am almost done with my vibrating GG adapter (which grew from ed's design). I am just waiting for my CO+7 to arrive and then I will need to make the necessary adjustments after taking out the Asian +10 (if any are needed).

I have a question in the meantime though... Is there a standard way of testing light loss?

faceless1 said:
just wondering...but is that Cokin P series 72mm filter adapter male on both sides?

No. At least mine isn't.
 
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one last word. (or two)


I'm not sure what to say in regards to what has transpired on this thread.
It has been a fantastic running discourse on the creation of the 35mm Adaptor,
The little cylindrical object that give the beautiful DoF, and new life for old lenses.

Built with spare parts, coke cans, tubular objects laying about and the hunt for
focusing screens has raised the value of out of production, used Nikon d screens
to hilarious Bling on E-bay. This tread has been visited 36,665 time since
Feb. 12 as of this year, and as of this writing.


That has got to be a record. then again maybe not. The DIY section of
DVXUSER has been a treasure trove of knowledge to find a way to
get that great "expensive shot" at it's most cheapest. But more importantly,
it has been a place for people to meet who like to work with hand and mind in totality.

Unfortunately, their are some who seem to work head to ass to hand.
Or maybe just ass for head. Dan Diaconu is a model candidate for the
latter.


This is not the first time Dan has been the harbinger of ill will.

When the discussion of adapters and more importantly do it your self articles begin to appear, Dan seems to swoop in attacking. He attacks what people are doing, Dictates instead of shares his research and then finds some way of praising and showing off what he's up to, i. e. hawking his MPIC, the god king of all 35MM adapters.

Once he's attacked, he then edits his posts, sometimes leaving them confusing, messy sentences. I'd advise in the future people keep a log of his posts when he spitefully responds. It may prevent you looking foolish. Foolish the way Marlene feels, foolish the way I feel when you read our responses.
Marlene says in her post that it makes it look like she needs to check her emotions. Well Marlene if anyone cared about this and went back and read or reread your posts here, view your tutorial clips, they would find a giving generous and excited person imparting experience and craftsmanship.

But above all they would find a dialogue with others void of the tonality yours has with Dan's.
Now read Dans post here and over at DVINFO. You will find them Combative, condescending, and authoritative. That is before he edits like Stalin. Really. I highly advise documenting future postings with him. As he surprisingly admitted in some post recently, he was banned from DVINFO. I can only guess it was because of similar situations as this. Is that post, admitting this, even still around?


I've fallen into his games and ill effect recently when he announced here at DVXUSER that the Cinemek people had approached him about development / licensing a dynamic system for the g35. He went on to "imply" that their dynamic g35 was still up in the air and was far from ready. When I posted this over a Cinemek's forum I lit an unintentional fire of hostility. Jonathan Houser quickly swooped in and put out the fires of discontent. But for many that was the last straw and they went elsewhere. And serendipitously, around the same time, between cinemek's announcement of delay and dans post, this thread was born.



THANKS HUGELY AND BRILLIANTLY TO ED!


From Marlene's AOL case screens to Snodart's posts of a vibrating kind, and everyone else's journey for the DoF, this area has been a massive data base of thought and experimentation. And that is what makes dan's remarks and dialogue (now edited) with Marlene so sad.

And has caused me to post this rant. stick with it, it's almost over.

We may have lost a great partner here. Her contributions have been invaluable and incalculable on so many levels. Time and money saved payed for many a scratched Bettie screen. Most of all her encouragement's have helped a lot of us continue when all seemed lost in PVC hell. ( good god, the whole ACHROMAT hell thing, thats a whole other rant! ) But Marlene was their working it out for someone here. You'd come to look and find an answer or better yet a question to solve. And Marlene was an amazing source. She came here to explore and share. Not be fought with by pompous alphas.

And now we come to this. and where this tread will evolve to next. It seems this thread has gone from static to dynamic. Snodart's great post's and Dan's Dangle of how his system works (Which he's never really done once he cobbled a business out of the MPIC a year or so ago) all seem to suggest to me if you know of or have reference to a way to shake, rattle or roll a focus screen, post it. I've been obsessively working on my own system and want to post my journey. And I hope other are going to as well.

The more we can make the experience of film making with video a visural experience, the more the rest of us benefit from the synergy created. And I really appreciated Marlene's energy a lot.

Thats all I have to say. Pretty much. I hope this thread evolves to some day discover the best solution for the elusive DoF adapter. a solution we can all share. and build ourselves. I hope Marlene isn't really gone. And I hope Dan can learn to communicate with as a posed to pontificate at.


God, I'm STILL pissed.
 
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Bloody hell, I'm away for 3 weeks and I'm coming back to anger....
Any way Ed, marlene, snodart and the rest congrats for your work...
Sorry I have been really busy with day job and a short project that I'm trying to Write/Direct/ and finance.... I will shoot it with FX1E with no adapter as I found a way to get the depth of field... not the best way for sure but I bought wide angle lenses and a set of +1 to +4 closeup and I get a pretty good result.

So if someone is in need of a static adapter, which has nikkon D screen, aluminium body, +10 and +4 closeup and works the treat, please make an offer... I think all of you have seen the video I posted about my adapter so it should be no surprise on what you are getting....

speak to you soon
 
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dijit23.....thank you for your kind words. I'm good with dropping the issue with Dan and moving on with what this thread is about.

I plan a redesign with one of my adapters this weekend to see if I can illiminate the +2 Asian close up, leaving just the +7 CO. I'll post my findings.

I'm leaving in June for 3 months on assignment. My contract is for stills but I'll be doing a lot of indie work with my DVX so I need my adapter to be in tip top shape. It's time to stop messing with it and get down to business.
 
marlenedegrood said:
Dan edited his post after he got my attention.....what you're seeing is NOT what he really said, now making me look like I need a check on my emotions. Dirty trick Dan.

If this is true...then my apologies. The edit feature should be taken out of this forum...maybe people then would be more careful about what they write without having the luxury of then editing their posts how they sit fit to make themselves look like victims. To write a statement that is arrogant or hurtful and then edit it out to his or her convenience is in my opinion un professional.

Say it and let it stay or pack your bags and go away!
 
YESSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!

It has been fixed,
saving my beattie screen, i used a camel hair brush, 5 cans of can air, lens pen, and lots of 91% alcohol
it is clean for the most part, and there is no vignetting, or barrel distortion

my findings are:
Hvr-z1 needs at least at "15" on the zoom ring to come in focus and no vigenette
that was my problem, found the sweet spot,by taking some 72mm empty macros as spacers using them and BAM no more vignetting.

i guess to much zooming, the light gets dispersed and becomes very soft athe edges.
also, the stronger the macro, the more barrel distortion.
i am at a 10+, before it was at 20+, so took one out it is fixed.

also if yo have major barrel distortion on the edges, then it is that your ground glass need to be flipped.

and final notes:
beattie screens are very, very, very soft!!! camel hair will be okay to brush off dirt and dust, use cotton gloves and hold only at the edges. brush holding upside down and with a vacum, so things will fall and get sucked and not staticly cling back. Clean and Clean and Clean then seal. You will greatly be rewarded with a bright image, unique bokteh, and hella of an area to zoom.
but a intensecreen is a lot to invest in, i did, i bought two, and will buy a third and now must wait till my next pay check to buy some aluimmium tubes for a vibrating GG

later:
footage, but after i shoot my GRAD documentary project. Also I think Dan has been very helpful and his insights i find helps me in my project

also:
rosco spinning gobo holder? a solution to spinning ground glass?
 
phally said:
i guess to much zooming, the light gets dispersed and becomes very soft athe edges.
If your Beattie is too close to Z1 lens, you will get a slight distorsion (depending how much you zoom-in) and soft corners on the image. Try mounting it about 35-50mm away and zoom-in to fill the frame. If it does not fill the frame, get a Century Optics +7 (58mm) and step rings (72-58) and that WILL do.
phally said:
also, the stronger the macro, the more barrel distortion.
i am at a 10+, before it was at 20+, so took one out it is fixed.
I think I could add to the above ; The cheaper the macro, the more barrel distorsion. Achromatic lenses provide a distorsion free image.
(You may have missed an earlier test I posted). Those +10 (and smaller values) are nothing but trouble(imo) if you want a clean image.
phally said:
also if yo have major barrel distortion on the edges, then it is that your ground glass need to be flipped.
Beattie should have its grooves towards the SLR lens and the matte side towards the camera.
phally said:
You will greatly be rewarded with a bright image, unique bokteh, and hella of an area to zoom.
but a intensecreen is a lot to invest in, i did, i bought two, and will buy a third
cheap and good don't go together well, do they? Seems to be one or the other. Anyway, I am happy to know you enjoy a bright image. Sort out the achromat and distance and if need help, call me 604-780-1818. I will help you sort it out.
 
thanks Dan and Marlene:

well there is a problem with the footage.
I only created a series of still images from the footage because the computer i am working on is going crazy on me. so before i head home, i just wanted to show pictures of the DOF. HDV workflow is so crazy, somedays it is fine, other days they really sucks!!!!

note: if you look closely at the edges you see that it is still not zoom in the way and i know why.

in the lcd it looks zoomed but the Z-1 underscans? the frame and show the underscan in the LCD even tho it is not what is recorded. (tv safe?) so when i captures the footage, more of the edges are shown even tho i didnt see it in the lcd. Also you will see little places where it seems that there is a bright line running thru it. That is from the accident i had a week agon with the cleaning solution and the effects of the cleaning solution cracking the beattie. There are cracks at the edges if you look closely, that was from the chemical reaction.

but i tried my best to clean it and there are some specks of dust in the pictures but not to many a further cleaning can take care off. Also i boosted the color saturation and lowered the sharpness on the Z1 with the 50mm nikon attached, normally the colors will look much much richer without the 35, but with the 35, the colors seems to almost knock it away to a perfect image.

to fix the underscan:
reduce the space from camera lens to ground glass, or using another macro, 1+?

fixing the crack?
buy the third beattie screen, buy more cotton gloves, and then grind it in a dust free box with the suits from the intel folks.

and then that is basically it. a very good static adaptor for HDV.

Dan thanks for the info, I will get a CO +7 when i have my next paycheck, also i am saving for the grand daddy HVX-200, but after NAB 2006, that might change.
Also after i get my new beattie screen, the one i am currently using will be used for a vibrating ground glass.

thanks guys, and the real footage will be posted soon after the apple G5 is fixed.

phally

http://astro.temple.edu/~phally/test_pictures.mov
 
Phally, looks pretty good. My only suggestion (and it has already been said) would be to ditch the macro. You can clearly see the chroma aberration throughout the frame and optical distortion on the edges. But it does seem bright and crisp. Nice work, thanks for posting your progress.
 
Phally....looking pretty good! I think that once you get the CO+7 you're going to be much happier......you'll get rid of the aberrations and the edges will sharpen up. I have found that I have to blow off my screens every time prior to shooting and then there's always a reluctant piece still sitting there waiting to screw up your shots. If you don't have a 7" monitor then it's really hard to see those tiny dust specs on your small viewfinder or camera lcd. I think that it's one of the dangerous things about these adapters......what you don't see on your little lcd.....you just might see on your computer monitor.....and that's a really bad thing. I found that a 7" camera mounted monitor was absolutely necessary.

Anyway.....you've come a long way, now just get that computer tamed.
 
hey thanks,

i will get me a new macro, when i have the money, but are there any alternative to century optics? don't tiffen makes Achromatic Diopters as well? or can i just use any Achromatic Diopter?
 
phally said:
hey thanks,

i will get me a new macro, when i have the money, but are there any alternative to century optics? don't tiffen makes Achromatic Diopters as well? or can i just use any Achromatic Diopter?

Just be sure that it's a double element. Expect to pay around $200+ for a double element achromatic diopter. Don't settle for a single element or you'll be back to the same quality as the Asian brand.
 
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html

hey maybe this will help?

ohh about the dust and lcd, cleaning upsidedown and vacumm really work well, and if you screw it well and then tape it up with gaff tape, that sucker will stay in its place no dust entering,

snodart:
I have me this for my vibrating gg-> 5, 1cc insulin needles, 3 inch white pvc cap, 72mm black cd case circle, a lot of 35mm slide holders.

now i am on my way to vibrating, and since i am really pleased with my beattie, i will vibrate the nikon screen because it fits well into the slide holders.

so snodart, how long is your needle part from macro to the gg,

i figure the longer the needle (white shaft) the more motion left right, but a shorter distance will mean more limited vibrating?

so anyways, my plane is to glue the nikon to the slide holder opening, cut holes in for the grommets and stick the syringe's to them connecting them to the pvc cap and cd circle cut out--> why?

the pvc and cd cut out makes for a stiff platform to hold the gg, put that in between two filter 72mm filter holders and all you need now is a motor and metal tube.

whatta you think?
 
58mm macro?

58mm macro?

Hi, I was just wondering the reason of the 58mm macro +10 instead of a 72mm macro +10.
 
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