Want some more frame rates?

Something odd, my camera says #34= 60fps, where yours barry says 35= 60. Is there an error in your list?

Edit: Great, i think i may be the first one with a problem altering this information. It seems that whenever i go to 60fps the white menu text/overlays seem to bounce 1 pixel up and down, almost as if the camera is having difficulty locking on the FR. Ive tried setting to 34 and 35 on the text files but none will fix this issue. Video looks fine tho. Just problems with menu and feature overlays.



Anyone else have this????


Edit: setting the scene file to initial has no effect. Menues/overlays still bounce/strobe. HOWEVER, reseting the camera has fixed the issue. Tho i still suggest we look into the 34/35 setting more. I think we may want to analyze this FR list.

EDIT: OK, after more testing, i have found a solution: There is no "35 setting". The camera only goes up to 34 which equals 60fps. Pushing it to 35 causes menues to flicker/nudge as if the camera is in an error loop. Image is fine, but i dont know what this could be doing to the camera.

Safest bet, no one push the HVX past option 34. This may be the dangerous part we are all so worried about. It sure scared me!

Barry if you or anyone else could confirm this that would be awsome.
 
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Rhydon said:
Edit: Great, i think i may be the first one with a problem altering this information. It seems that whenever i go to 60fps the white menu text/overlays seem to bounce 1 pixel up and down, almost as if the camera is having difficulty locking on the FR. Ive tried setting to 34 and 35 on the text files but none will fix this issue. Video looks fine tho. Just problems with menu and feature overlays.

Anyone else have this????
Click to expand...

I've never changed the scene file, but my camera menu has always 'jumped' a bit when switching recording modes or frame rates. I believe this is normal and it's written about in the manual somewhere.

Since it happens when you change the scene file frame rate setting to '35', it's probably the camera trying to jump back into a normal setting for it. I wouldn't worry too much, as long as everything is normal once you change it back to '34' or the default frame rate.
 
No, i had to hard reset the camera for this constant "jumping" to return to normal. Even when i was on a different scene file, the jumping persisted.

I highly recommend Barry or some of the moderators do some testing with this issue. See if you can duplicate my problem.
 
Okay, I made the plunge and I'm stoked! The one thing that I was looking forward to though, was getting more light into the cam using 3fps. I set the shutter angle to 350d, but did not achieve any more light than 24fps.
It seems to me that the CCD's have a maximum amount of time they are "on" and then are "off" until the camera is ready to take the next frame. Anyone got any comments?

Also, I noticed a couple of blank spots in the user (not scene) settings file I saved to the card...
0000A00B: 0 ;
and
00006010: 1 ;

My first thought was that they are room for expansion, but then I noticed that the second one (00006010: 1 ; ) has a setting of "1". If this was just a blank spot waiting for an upgrade, wouldn't it be set to "0"?
I might play around with it, I might not...
 
No, you didn't do it right -- you didn't select synchro scan shutter speeds or something. When I go in 2fps mode with 350-degree shutter, it's about four stops brighter than when in 24fps mode.

Set it to 350 degrees, but then use the shutter and speed sel buttons to make sure you're actually in syncro-scan mode. If you're using 3fps, you'll KNOW IT when it goes to 3fps.
 
I realized my excellence in stupidity this morning as I woke up. I don't know which is more pathetic... My forgetting to mess with the shutter speeds last night. Or my first waking thought this morning being about my camera settings.
 
Rocketeer said:
In theory does this mean you could push the PAL camera to 60fps and 24fps if it's just a simple scene file edit?
Click to expand...

Nope. Pal just goes to 50p. Can go to 2fps, tough
 
I thought the only reason you'd want to shoot 24P with a PAL camera is to emulate film, not NTSC. 23.97 is an NTSC issue, it should actually be 24.00 right?
so if the PAL models of the HVX can do 24.00, that's what you'd want
if it was 29.97 you were after and only got 30, it will be off and not really NTSC compatible
 
OK. It's not like I don't ever read these boards, but I missed this post after Bootcamp. I'm having one of those Alanis Morrisette moments. I thought it fell on deaf ears (assuming you read each word aloud like I do) when the original thread withered on the vine. Yeah, it was easy enough to crack except for those damn Syncho Scan codes. What the hex.:2vrolijk_08:
 
yes chaka.. we all owe you a little bit of love. now get the hell off the board and go crack us a way to pull 4:4:4 out the usb port.
 
Unlock Hidden Frame Rates On The HVX200 (re-compiled tutorial)

Unlock Hidden Frame Rates On The HVX200 (re-compiled tutorial)

Unlock Hidden Frame Rates On The HVX200:​

[1] Get a scene file text file on an SD card, usually by going into menu 8, CARD FUNCTIONS, and saving scene files to your SD card.

[2] Open the scene file text file in the PRIVATE\MEIGROUP\PAVCN\SBG\P2SD directory (that's the directory on the SD card where the scene files are stored). It's called SCENE1.TXT (or scene2.txt, scene3.txt, or scene4.txt) using a text editor like Windows Notepad.

[3] Look for the next-to-last item in the scene file (this is the item you will modify). Here's what a sample scene file text file looks like:

00005000: 8 ; DETAIL LEVEL: 0
00005001: 8 ; V DETAIL LEVEL: 0
00005002: 8 ; DETAIL CORING : 0
00005003: 8 ; CHROMA LEVEL: 0
00005004: 8 ; CHROMA PHASE: 0
00005005: 8 ; COLOR TEMP: 0
00005006: 16 ; MASTER PED: 0
00005007: 8 ; A.IRIS LEVEL: 0
00005008: 1 ; NEWS GAMMA: OFF
00005009: 0 ; GAMMA : HD NORM
0000500A: 0 ; KNEE: AUTO
0000500B: 0 ; MATRIX: NORM
0000500C: 1 ; SKIN TONE DTL : OFF
0000500D: 0 ; V DETAIL FREQ : THIN
0000500E: 0 ; OPERATION TYPE: VIDEO CAM
[FONT=&quot]0000500F: 0 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT [/FONT] <--- [FONT=&quot]This line![/FONT]


00005010: BE026801 ; SYNCRO SCAN :

You can ignore everything after the semicolon; the semicolon indicates that it's a "comment" and will have no bearing on anything else (so, in this example, the part that says "; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT " is useless, it affects nothing, it's just there for human-readable description).

So the relevant part is:
0000500F: 0

The only thing you would want to change is that last number (in this case, "0"). To get different frame rates, use one of the following numbers:

0 = DEFAULT
1 = 2fps
2 = 3fps
3 =4fps
4 = 6fps
5 = 8fps
6 = 10fps
7 = 12fps
8 = 14fps
9 = 16fps
10 = 18fps
11 = 20fps
12 = 22fps
13 = 23fps
14 = 24fps
16 = 26fps
17 = 27fps
18 = 28fps
19 = 30fps
20 = 32fps
21 = 34fps
22 = 36fps
23 = 38fps
24 = 40fps
25 = 42fps
26 = 44fps
27 = 46fps
28 = 48fps
29 = 50fps
30 = 52fps
32 = 54fps
33 = 56fps
34 = 58fps
[FONT=&quot]35 = 60fps[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]36+ = repeat of sequence from 50fps to 60fps[/FONT]

NOTE: Do NOT set past 34 or there may be problems!

So, for example, if you wanted to get a frame rate of 2 FPS, your modified line would look like this:

0000500F: 1 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

And if you wanted 44 fps, it would look like this:

0000500F: 26 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

(35 just gives you a standard frame rate of 60fps. 36 gives you 50fps, 37 gives you 52fps. So, it likely just repeats 50-60 for all fields set higher than 36. Regardless, there have been problems reported when trying to set fields at 35 or higher.)

[4] Save your modified text file back onto your SD card

[5] Put the SD card back in the camera, go to CARD FUNCTIONS, and load the scene files into the camera.

Now, when you go to the appropriate scene file, you'll see the new frame rate there. But be aware, the only way to assign these "nonstandard" frame rates is through the SD card. If you use the menu to try to change the frame rate, you'll lose it – it will immediately jump to 60 and then allow only the normal rates to be selected. You'd have to re-load the scene file from the SD card in order to re-establish your "nonstandard" frame rate. So, change anything you want but if you change the frame rate it'll snap back to the camera's default rate rather than your custom rate.

Experiment at your own risk!
 
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Just get Juan and Chacka on the Job

Just get Juan and Chacka on the Job

Jarred Land said:
yes chaka.. we all owe you a little bit of love. now get the hell off the board and go crack us a way to pull 4:4:4 out the usb port.
Click to expand...

HAHA,

I seriously wouldn't be surprised at all if Juan has an elegant hack for the HVX relatively soon. I might just go for it, even if I were still in-warranty.

In my mind, sdi out is the only thing missing from this camera, single link would be great, dual link or (yeah) firewire/sata/string/stretched bubblegum would be even better.

real 4:4:4 1080 might present a nasty problem though, even FW800 could barely handle it uncompressed. then again, if he's talking directly to the CCD, maybe the signal bandwidth is a subset of the bandwidth of the final stream.

blah blah,

when I have a moment, and an SD card, I'm going to make a master compilation of scene files (perhaps 50) for a varity of situations, including time lapse :)

_a
 
uh oh, somehow i seem to have overwritten my F6 Cine D settings with this new 2fps 350 setting. heh.

Is there a simple way to recover and move the old Cine D setting to my F1 scene?
 
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Yes, 15=25fps on the European version.

On the US version, both 14 and 15 show up as 24fps. I didn't try timing out the 15 setting to see how many actual fps it delivers.
 
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