Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Phally- why is your image not a 16x9 image from the Z1?

You need to zoom in more to get rid of the vignetting.

What Achromatic Diopter magnfication are you using?

Regards
Steve
 
Phally..... next time you test your adapter.....take the time to do it right....improve the quality by tripoding the camera, zooming in to illiminate the vignetting and make it shorter if you want to post hi res. I'm just not sure what you are trying to show, the screen looks dirty and I can't tell what kind of sharpness you are getting because of the vignetting and camera shake/movement.
 
okay some answers:

the file is not a 16x9 image, the original footage is.
i did a quick quicktime conversion in fcp with the lan settings.
the lan setting changes the 1080i to SD lines of resolution. in doing so the video is in a 4x3 strecthed

testing my adaptor.
the video i posted looked fine to me, not that dirty
and i only wanted to show how the screen works, not quality of the video.

imo, i think the video is stable, not at its best, but stable enough to see the dof
vignetting is something i most work on, but i thought i said that i am trying to solve the problem before -

zooming in - i zoomed in, the lcd screen was showing darken edges no matter how far i zoomed in on the beattie screen.

please be supportive - if you are not interested in the experiments i am trying to learn and discover and share, then don't speak condescending towards me.

thank you
 
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malene always posts honestly. its hard to tell expression over text but she means well with what she says ( as ive learned reading her posts in other threads ) great information there. Now you have to figure out a way to solve the vignetting, step one of making your adapter better!

probably get a higher + macro lens to add some zoom there to get rid of the last big of vignetting. As for cleaning, im about to watch it to let you know.

all positive just ways to improv something you can probably make alot better after some time and experience.
 
Phally,
I did a test today (for you) but I did not have the time to import, compress, post it.
Sliding a few diffusers (including Beattie) at the focal plane of a lens. Same distance to camcorder, same scene, ....etc, to illustrate the difference between any gg/diffuser and a focusing screen.
Long story short; if you got your Beattie through all that trouble, don't expect anything from it anymore, is just a gg.
 
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Phally- what is the mag power and dia-mm of your [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Achromatic Diopter[/FONT] that you are using with the Sony z1? [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]
It would be safe to assume the following ?

1. Lens flange-mount to Beattie:
A. Nikon mount to Beattie- Focus screen = Xmm
B. Cannon mount to Beattie- Focus screen = Xmm

2. Beattie- Focus screen to camcorder lens = Xmm

3. [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Achromatic Diopter X power needed to focus on Beattie- focus screen = type of Camcorder-lens

Regards
Steve
[/FONT]
 
My adapter's done--clip

My adapter's done--clip

I've finished my adapter! :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

I use a static homemade ground glass (made from a Tiffen filter--see my previous post for how to take the glass out and grind it), macro extension tubes with a build-in female Nikon F mount, a variety of step up and step down rings, and three Universal macro lenses: a +4 and +10 stacked and a +2 reversed (in effect, a -2). I still need to get rid of some dust but overall I'm pretty happy with it. Focus on the DVX can be achieved at Z70. Total cost (without the lens) is about $100.

Check out my test footage and let me know what you think. This was shot with a 50mm Nikkor f1.8

http://www.stickypod.com/videos/member.php/uid/1062

(This is my first upload of video...if anyone can let me know which export settings seem to work best for this kind of thing, I'd appreciate it!)
 
MagicLantern said:
I've finished my adapter! :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

I use a static homemade ground glass (made from a Tiffen filter--see my previous post for how to take the glass out and grind it), macro extension tubes with a build-in female Nikon F mount, a variety of step up and step down rings, and three Universal macro lenses: a +4 and +10 stacked and a +2 reversed (in effect, a -2). I still need to get rid of some dust but overall I'm pretty happy with it. Focus on the DVX can be achieved at Z70. Total cost (without the lens) is about $100.

Check out my test footage and let me know what you think. This was shot with a 50mm Nikkor f1.8

http://www.stickypod.com/videos/member.php/uid/1062

(This is my first upload of video...if anyone can let me know which export settings seem to work best for this kind of thing, I'd appreciate it!)
Click to expand...

Congratulations on making your adapter. You might want to test your adapter outside with good lighting as it's really hard to judge under low light conditions. You want to look for edge to edge sharpness and for aberations.
 
Dan,

Thanks for all of the info you have made free to the Internet over the years. Your adapter is hands down the best available, and it is unusual that you would freely provide us DIY types with hands on help to build an adapter that gives us professional results. Although we can use the same screen as you etc, we can never do as well as your production version, but your input sure helps to bring the quality of our home products way up from where they would otherwise be.


Note to Snodart: You rock! Good job on getting that vibrating adapter built in record time. I'm going to build one similar but with a Beattie as soon as my work gets a little less intense. It won't be an MPIC, but it will be about as close as us DIY can get on a budget.
 
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Thank you jon, I am glad to see I made a difference (at least for some). Good luck with your project and don't forget to post your work.:beer:
 
MagicLantern said:
I managed to shoot some outdoor stuff today. Let me know what you think.

http://www.stickypod.com/videos/showphoto.php/photo/1604/cat/500/ppuser/1062
Click to expand...
It looks just a little soft, like maybe your 35mm lens to ground glass distance is off a little or it could be the diopter you're using. Check your sharpness with the adapter off the dvx (no macros), look through it with your lens focused on infinity, should be sharp, if not, move the gg. If it is sharp then it's the glass in your diopter causing the problem.
 
it does look a little soft, your footage.

also marlene: Why do alot of 35mm adapter footage have extremely blownout whites. Or just parts of the footge that are brighter than the toher always seem blown out even though it seems as though it shouldnt be over exposed?
 
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