Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Following the thread of adapter madness

Following the thread of adapter madness

Ok just got through reading this thread, and alot of good exsamples of adapters, ideas and more ideas, DO we have a consenus yet?

Also the [FONT=&quot]Beattie screen http://www.intenscreen.com/ which seems to gives the best quality @ this point what model is the recomended, version; [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Nikon F100 # 82170 ?
@ http://www.intenscreen.com/products_35mm-format_nikon.htm

I current own a mini35 and just to get the adapter upgrade to go to a [/FONT][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1]HVX200 [/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][FONT=&quot] or Sony [/FONT]HVR-Z1U[FONT=&quot] they want $2500.00 each not interchangeable, so this adaper thread is with merit.

Regards
Steve
[/FONT]
 
So here are some pics of the vibrating adapter and a few drawings of designs that didn't work out. The adapter is finished as far as the basic design goes, but needs a few parts, adjustments, and final touches before it is complete.

Here is the adapter as one piece. The barrel still needs to be painted inside and out to get rid of the shiny surface.

complete.jpg


Below are some pics of the macro and GG part of the adapter:

The circular piece that holds the GG is just from a small piece of plastic. I just cut out an area for the Nikon D screen. The rubber pieces are small rubber grommets from Home Depot. I used them on the GG holder and on the macro part (as seen below) these are what help the GG to vibrate and also isolate the vibration to just the GG.

The white "sticks" are from 1.0ml syringes that I bought at a pharmacy. I was using 4 instead of 2, but with 4 it shook the camera a bit. I was worried that using only 2 would move the GG along the z-axis too much, but after testing it, it doesn't seem to be a problem at all. The images looked nice and crisp and in focus. I never tried using 3 of them, because using 2 seemed to work great. Using 3 of the syringe parts in a triangle patter might also work well.

three.jpg


one.jpg


The image below is with the macro out to see the back of the set up. The white circles are the backs of the two syringe parts that hold the GG and motor. I used some silicone adhesive to secure the wires around the outside to make sure that they don't get in front of the macro.

two.jpg


Below is the motor I used from here:
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1207.html
Soldering the motor was pretty tough. Of couse this was my first attempt at soldering. The motors are only $5 so luckly I had ordered 3 of them. One didn't make it through my soldering attempt. The area to solder the wires is very small and brital. Once I had some good solder joints, I used some silicone adhesive to secure the wires to the edge of the GG circle to prevent the wires from pulling the tiny metal leads off the motor.

five.jpg


Below is an image of just the barrel. As I said, I will need to paint it to avoid light reflections inside and out. The stainless steel part came from a large salt shaker. I had spent a good deal of time trying to figure out a light and sturdy solution. I just happen to see the salt shaker in a box in the garage. It fits perfectly. My wife says it was purchased at Target, not sure if they still carry them. Really you could use anything that fits. The key to the salt shaker was that it was light, thin walled and strong. The thin wall allows plenty of room for the GG to vibrate without hitting the walls. The top part that the FD mount is secured to is the same PVC piece that I used in building Ed's design.

barrel.jpg



The image below shows the wiring set up. It is obviously temporary. The motor actually only uses 1 or 2 AA batteries, but with the LED light, 2 AA's wasn't enough. The LED uses 1 AA battery, so using 3 AA's evens it out. The AA battery holders and the switch in the image below will be replaced with this item:

http://www.unicornelex.com/detail.php?itemno=17-7058&

The knob looking switch is a 25 Ohm Rheostat that I bought at radio shack. I don't know about the site that the pic of it is on, but here is a link with a good pic:
http://www.etech4sale.com/products/partinfo-id-122158.html
It allows the control of how much voltage gets to the motor (I think), and thus controls the speed. This is a pretty big advantage and allows me to tune the motor speed to the "sweet spot" where the vibration only effects the GG and not the adapter itself or the camera. I find that the LED light is necessary, because when the motor is tuned just right, I can't tell if it is on. The lLED light lets me know that the motor is getting power.

wires.jpg


The images below show the drawings of my first attempts... until Jon Ness posted the great info.

drawing_1.jpg


drawing_2.jpg


I will be posting a quazi-tutorial with more info in the home built area of my website once the adapter is complete. I will also get some better test footage up once I get my CO +7 and figure what adjustments will need to be made with it in place. I will be out of town for a week, so I hope I answered most questions that will arise from this post. The total cost to build this with a Nikon D screen and a CO +7 would probably be around $350-$400, not bad considering the cost of a comparable vibrating adapter.
 
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thanks snodart
for the pic. I see you have the syringes glued to the lens mount, couldn't they also be mounted the other way around?

since i am adepting for rings, i am thinking about mounting the GG to a step up ring, because i have a variable flange focal distance screw

thanks
 
Snodart, if you wire the LED in parallel with a resistor (to reduce its current consumption), you don’t need another battery.

Also, you could add a 25 or 50 ohm resistor in series with the rheostat to reduce even more the motor speed/vibration.

HTH,
 
petri63 said:
Snodart, if you wire the LED in parallel with a resistor (to reduce its current consumption), you don’t need another battery.

Also, you could add a 25 or 50 ohm resistor in series with the rheostat to reduce even more the motor speed/vibration.

HTH,
Click to expand...

I was doing guess work with the wiring and using a little goolge knowledge. I think I get what you are saying. Any chance you would be willing to post a quick wiring diagram of what you are talking about? :) With the resistor in series with the rheostat... would this reduce the highest speed of the motor as compared to the set up I have now? In other words would it make the highest speed that I have now lower, and the lowest speed that I have now even lower? I hope the makes sense. How do I pick which resister to use in parallel with the LED?

Maybe I need to do a little reading on basic circuitry.

Phally said:
thanks snodart
for the pic. I see you have the syringes glued to the lens mount, couldn't they also be mounted the other way around?

since i am adepting for rings, i am thinking about mounting the GG to a step up ring, because i have a variable flange focal distance screw

thanks
Click to expand...
THe syringe pieces are not glued at all. The hole that I drilled for the grommets is small enough so that the syringes fit plenty snug without glue. Yes, I think the syringes could be turned the other way also. I'm not sure if it would make any difference.

I'm not sure what a variable flange focal distance screw is, so I am not %100 sure what you mean in the second part. I am interested in hearing more though.
 
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snodart said:
I was doing guess work with the wiring and using a little goolge knowledge. I think I get what you are saying. Any chance you would be willing to post a quick wiring diagram of what you are talking about? :) With the resistor in series with the rheostat... would this reduce the highest speed of the motor as compared to the set up I have now? In other words would it make the highest speed that I have now lower, and the lowest speed that I have now even lower? I hope the makes sense. How do I pick which resister to use in parallel with the LED?
Click to expand...

Below is a diagram of my circuit. Please note that I’m no engineer. I got help to design this (basic) circuit and used trial and error to find a working resistor in parallel with the LED. (BTW, I assume it’s a 2.2Kohm because it has one gold band and three red bands).

As for your second question, yes, adding a resistor in the rheostat path will reduce your maximum motor speed. You may not need that if you are happy with the vibration as it is. But it’s fun to try. I did add a 25 ohm and it did not change much. My next step is to try a 50 ohm and a 100 ohm. For this, I have been told it would be safer to use resistors rated 2W or higher. They’re slightly bigger but they’re more robust.

adapter_circuit.bmp
 
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Hey guys,

I just finished v.2 of my ecw35
I, finally on my second try, *another 60 dollars, got a Beattie screen in that sucker. :) I am so happy since I really scratched my first one!!!*handle with care

I took great care at this one was able to fit it in a 62mm holder. I now have more image space and less light loss. Best thing is that it is scratch-free!!!. now to get that dust out!!!

snodart: a variable flange distance screw was something I modified from another 35-adaptor design, I think it was the home depot 35mm design. Well what I did was
use an enclosure with a f-mount on one end and female threads on the other. Then I created a male thread that pitched? into a 52mm filter holder. What this enable me to do is "screw-tune" the screen to the flange distance with precision. the reason so is to use interchangeable mounts or if I have multiple screen enclosures. It is pretty simple.

attach pieces, open up on the lens, set lens to infinity, screw the variable flange screw, look thru the ground glass, screw in out to reached image focus = an easy way to find the correct flange distance of any lens, any mount. I can then gaff tape it, or make my threads very taut, so they don't need taping.

I hopes this helps, I'll try some of my art skills later to visualize it.

can anybody help me out the barrel distortion problem? with the beattie screen, there is less, and i don't know why...

thanks guys
 
phally said:
snodart: a variable flange distance screw was something I modified from another 35-adaptor design, I think it was the home depot 35mm design. Well what I did was
use an enclosure with a f-mount on one end and female threads on the other. Then I created a male thread that pitched? into a 52mm filter holder. What this enable me to do is "screw-tune" the screen to the flange distance with precision. the reason so is to use interchangeable mounts or if I have multiple screen enclosures. It is pretty simple.

attach pieces, open up on the lens, set lens to infinity, screw the variable flange screw, look thru the ground glass, screw in out to reached image focus = an easy way to find the correct flange distance of any lens, any mount. I can then gaff tape it, or make my threads very taut, so they don't need taping.

I hopes this helps, I'll try some of my art skills later to visualize it.
Click to expand...

I get it. Very cool. I'm not sure about the barrel distortion problem. Edwierdo might be able to tell you.

petri63, thanks a ton for posting the diagram. I will give it a shot.
 
WAIT!
Hold Up!!!

What direction are people facing the nikon's condenser towards?
I thought you are to face the condenser towards the camera's ccd?
somebody clear this up

canon lens, |), CCD
or is it this
canon lens, (|, CCD
thanks
 
From my understanding you face it toward the Canon lens, as it is condensing the light from that lens onto the focusing screen. As the CCD is not emitting light there's no reason for it to face the CCD.
 
Hey guys,

hey thanks ovjamaica, i found the post, it was post #333,
the reason i thought the condenser was facing the ccd is because i took it from another design, but now this clears things up and i am having a pretty good feeling that this solves the abberation i have been having.

stevec: the beattie screen I used was the same one steeve from holyzoo used on his UA35? basically i managed to take a medium photography ground glass and made it into a circle to fit the ring. I dont have the box on me but i now that the info is on dvinfo. My first beattie fell ill into the frustration of carelessness and sanding the edges. I was cursing so much from all the scratch and dust that I threw the glass across the room. I wind up having to take a time out and then saving more loot to get me a the one i have now.

I will take a picture of my new GG when i get home today.
you would also want a beattie without no marking and clear matte.
 
so im using the aol screen.. everything is good.. except everynow and then the sides blur out wayyyy to much.. im getting an awesome picture right in the middle.. but the sides make it suck.. any solutions?
 
If the blur on the sides looks like color smearing, and you are using diopters instead of achromatic lenses, then it is most likely chromatic aberration.

If it is related to the iris settings on the camera, then it might be due to the geometry of the lens in relation to the ground glass.

When doing my GG tests, I found that with the iris wide open, the camera could only focus on either the center of the screen, or the edges. I could literally rack focus back and forth. I think there was enough difference in distance between the two, that it made a difference. The only way around this would be to stop the camera lens down enough to bring both distances into the lenses depth of field.


http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=4/9915335881.gif&s=x11

BTW, where did you get the AOL screen, I'd like to test one out...
 
If the barrel distortion looks like this: ( ) , then try moving the GG away from the DVX.

If the barrel distortion looks like this: ) ( , then try moving the GG towards the DVX (A.K.A. pincushion distortion)
 
zakaree said:
so im using the aol screen.. everything is good.. except everynow and then the sides blur out wayyyy to much.. im getting an awesome picture right in the middle.. but the sides make it suck.. any solutions?
Click to expand...
Are you using the Asian +10 Macro? I had that problem until switching to the CO +7 and then the sides sharpened right up.
 
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