Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Marlene, I must be doing something wrong. I've got the AOL case cut out and put in my adapter. I don't have my setup perfected yet so that's part of the problem, but the bigger problem is that I'm getting a fairly harsh hotspot. I'm using a Nikon 50mm f/1.8, all the way open. I was surprised at this as I haven't seemed to have one on the other screens I've tested. But on this particular plastic it's pretty apparent. Any thoughts? I know the flange distance is correct, the only part of my setup that isn't great yet is the distance between the macro and the GG.
 
Hmmmm.......I would think that the solution is that the plastic is different from case to case......but.....I just tested out a new adapter and used a piece from another case and it's great. Tomorrow I'll pull this one out and try even another piece to see if I can get a hotspot. I've even used a piece of Lee's Filter Diffusion material taped to the end of my lens mount connector to test out lens to screen distance and I didn't get a hot spot with that, which is much thinner than the aol case plastic.

I'm going to be posting another tutorial (in a new thread) tonight that is the system I used to build the adapter with the aol case screen in it. Check it out and see if there is something different enough between our adapters that would cause the hotspot on yours.
 
I am dragging myself back from a 5 day attempt at vibrating the GG. I came to the realization that the parts needed were just too much $. I think spinning it would be much easier, but I am still learning about the DVX and am working on a hero-fest short, so for now it will be static.

My nikon D screen seems to have a couple of dust specs. I can't get them off, so they must be between the screen and the plano side. I hate to take it out, since it is all glued into the filter and step up rings, but I guess I have no choice. If I scratch it, you may not hear from me again. How hard is it to get that little guy apart?

I am still waiting on two achromatic macros that I ordered from ebay. I will post tests when they arrive.
 
snodart said:
If I scratch it, you may not hear from me again.
Click to expand...


LOL

:Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

Now, slightly off toppic:
I GOT MY DVX100B YESTERDAY!

Please, understand muy exaltation!!!

Soon I'll get immersed in building a 35mm adapter up to my chin :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

I had to spread the great news :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)

Cheers,
nenaD
 
snodart said:
I am dragging myself back from a 5 day attempt at vibrating the GG. I came to the realization that the parts needed were just too much $. I think spinning it would be much easier, but I am still learning about the DVX and am working on a hero-fest short, so for now it will be static.

My nikon D screen seems to have a couple of dust specs. I can't get them off, so they must be between the screen and the plano side. I hate to take it out, since it is all glued into the filter and step up rings, but I guess I have no choice. If I scratch it, you may not hear from me again. How hard is it to get that little guy apart?

I am still waiting on two achromatic macros that I ordered from ebay. I will post tests when they arrive.
Click to expand...

I have the same situation with my Nikon D screen adapter......so I just don't use that one. That's what prompted me to build an adapter with easily removable screens. Just 2 tiny little specs between the screen and condenser and it's unusuable.
 
nenaD said:
Now, slightly off toppic:
I GOT MY DVX100B YESTERDAY!

Please, understand muy exaltation!!!
Click to expand...

I know how you feel. I have only had mine a couple of weeks and still gaze at it longingly. Such a great camera. Be sure and check out the DVX book/DVD. Good stuff. Congrats!

marlenedegrood said:
I have the same situation with my Nikon D screen adapter......so I just don't use that one. That's what prompted me to build an adapter with easily removable screens. Just 2 tiny little specs between the screen and condenser and it's unusuable.
Click to expand...

I guess it is time to start digging back some pages in this thread to reread where to get the aol case. Hopefully not as hard to find as the D screen.
:)
 
I was actually at Circuit City the other day and noticed these DVDs. They come in clear plastic cases, very similar to the AOL case. I have yet to buy a pack and compare them to the AOL case I have, but I think they'll be very similar. Just an idea. I'll try to snag a pack and let everyone know if they work.
 
snodart said:
I guess it is time to start digging back some pages in this thread to reread where to get the aol case. Hopefully not as hard to find as the D screen.
:)
Click to expand...

Well, I'm the one who pulled one of the AOL Cases out of my "save....just in case" inventory and cut out a piece to try and posted the test footage. I like it so much that I've quit (at least for a little while) trying to improve on my first good, but not perfect, wax screen and stopped caring about the dust in my Nikon D screen.

I have a friend who distributes mail to housing complex and she always gives me those free aol cases. I had 6 that were the opaque plastic. Out of those 6, only 2 weren't scuffed up and scratched. I mailed off several pieces of those to DVXusers. Someone just recently posted that they had a case from microsoft software that was the same as the aol case. Just gotta check around or hope you get one in the mail.....isn't that a switch.......wanting to get an aol case in the mail???
 
it is amazing how specs of dust get into the D screen, between the condenser and the GG. After my rebuild dust has got in and I have been trying for days to get it out. As soon as you get out one spec another gets in somehow. The only way I can see doing this is in a "clean room".

My Linhof screen has arrived today. Will see how that goes...
 
Yep.....it makes me wonder why the D screen is so HOT. It's like my wax screen....it had the slightest of a hot spot and I was sure I could make one better so I trashed a pretty good wax screen.......now can I make another without a dust spec or bubble?........NOT. Now all I want is something that I can blow on. With the 7" monitor it's really easy to see any dust, so I just remove the lens, blow on screen and check it out on the monitor. Once or twice usually does it and I'm good to go.

For the time being I'm happy with my AOL CD Case Screen but I'm still on the lookout for other materials that aren't dust collectors.
 
marlenedegrood said:
Yep.....it makes me wonder why the D screen is so HOT. .
Click to expand...
Here is why:
http://www.intenscreen.com/pdf/How_Does_It_Work.pdf

What is missing from the above page is yet another specific explanation:

If you replace the "viewing eye" with a lens (a bulb or an LED), you get an even, corner to corner bright image on the other side of the screen. None of the "other" diffusers is capable to deliver that.
The Fresnel lens/screen gathers the light in the corners of the screen redirecting it to the other side, instead of reflecting it back where it came from.
The farther away from the center (towards the corners of the "GG"), the greater the angle of reflection of the incoming light, so that's the cause of the brightness difference between center and corners and subsequently, the hot spot in the center. I hope this sheds some light on the "D" issue…
 
dan said:
Here is why:
http://www.intenscreen.com/pdf/How_Does_It_Work.pdf

What is missing from the above page is yet another specific explanation:

If you replace the "viewing eye" with a lens (a bulb or an LED), you get an even, corner to corner bright image on the other side of the screen. None of the "other" diffusers is capable to deliver that.
The Fresnel lens/screen gathers the light in the corners of the screen redirecting it to the other side, instead of reflecting it back where it came from.
The farther away from the center (towards the corners of the "GG"), the greater the angle of reflection of the incoming light, so that's the cause of the brightness difference between center and corners and subsequently, the hot spot in the center. I hope this sheds some light on the "D" issue…
Click to expand...

Sorry you misunderstood my use of the word "HOT"........I didn't mean "hot" as in "hotspot"....I meant it like "hot" as in really popular and sought after.
 
Nope, I didn't. I got the right meaning of your post and that's why I offered my understanding as why it makes sense (for me) to use it. It just happens that the popular for "vigneting" is "hot spot".
 
what made the D so popular (and still does- for those who can find them) is its fine grain, the built in condenser, its just the right size for most DIY projects...and the fact it was under $30.

Its pitfall (among others) is the fact that it it two units stuck together and one spec caught inside forces you to dissasemble it and blow it out. That opens up a hole new can of worms cause the more you keep wiping it down the more "magnetic" it seems to become. I went through 2 cans of compressed air in 1 hour today. A plus though- I dropped it twice and washed it down about three times, it did not affect the GG side. The material is very hardy :)

The Beattie is bright and sharp but fragile and easily scratched. Everything has its strengths and weaknesses.

I replaced my 58mm +10 Asian with the CO +7 achro diopter. Just finished about an hour ago. I hope to have some good tests on Sat.

BTW- I got my Linhof screen today and it is SHARP! The grain is very fine- when you look closely at the D you can see sections that seem thicker than others, but this Linhof is totaly uniform. Its a 4x5 plate, so the question is- any suggestions as to how I could get this thing cut into several 52mm circles?

I thought about getting a compan glass cutter from the art store but I know I would bugger it up and it took 6 weeks to get it.
 
Edweirdo said:
I replaced my 58mm +10 Asian with the CO +7 achro diopter. Just finished about an hour ago. I hope to have some good tests on Sat.
Click to expand...

Can't wait to hear the news.

I am going to try and clean my D screen today. Maybe I will put a tiny bead of silicone around the edge where the condenser and screen meet (to keep the dust out). I will have to take a closer look at it later.
 
Edweirdo said:
I replaced my 58mm +10 Asian with the CO +7 achro diopter. Just finished about an hour ago. I hope to have some good tests on Sat.
Click to expand...

Really looking forward to seeing your test Ed. I am now convinced that the purple fringing is from the Asian Macro. The edges and corners fall out of focus and that's where the aberations come in to play.

Check out this test I ran about an hour ago. The first part is with the aol cd case screen.....notice you only see the fringing on the edges and corners. The second part is with my just put in trash Nikon D screen....watch the rock when it reaches the edges. I couldn't test them in the same spot because I shot the table stuff first and then when I went back out the table was in complete shade.

BTW.....I trashed the Nikon screen because it was hot in the center and had dust specs in it, not bad but the aol screen has no hot spot at all and is clean, so why even bother with the Nikon screen since I won't use it and I wouldn't give it to anybody because I'd feel bad knowing that they had a less than perfect screen, tiny dust specs and all.

http://homepage.mac.com/marlene.mac/iMovieTheater22.html
 
Ran a google search and came up with this from Quyen

"The problem is, the 72mm macro is too large and the outer part of the macro lens will add softness to the video. There is a way to overcome this problem. Get a black cardboard or thick paper and cut it to a size of the macro lens, cut out the rectangle piece in the center of the cardboard to the size of about 24x36mm and put it between the camera lens and macro lens. This will increase the sharpness of the outer edge. If you see the edge of the cardboard on video, cut it a little more. I receive no report from people using 58mm macro lens on this problem so far. For people using 58mm macro, I think this method will also increase video sharpness."

Hmmm.....guess I'll give it a try tomorrow.
 
Its pitfall (among others) is the fact that it it two units stuck together and one spec caught inside forces you to dissasemble it and blow it out. That opens up a hole new can of worms cause the more you keep wiping it down the more "magnetic" it seems to become. I went through 2 cans of compressed air in 1 hour today
Click to expand...
This is why I am going to the moving GG. The R&D is fun when it's kept under $150.00 (lens included) but when prices start to rise then it's time to look at other methods. I had a blast building mine but something is lacking. I can now understand why the G35 guys have postponed releasing their adapter. Needless to say this is an awesome thread for the budget minded and DIY'ers
Good luck.
 
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