Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Edweirdo said:
No no- you still will need those parts when making this adapter, you're fine. IF you choose to someday buy a CO +7 to replace the Asian macros (CO+7=Century Optics Achromatic Diopter +7) than you wont need the parts. Don't cancel your parts and jump out to buy a $250 piece of CO glass instead!

I dont even know if a CO+7 will be strong enough to work based on my current setup (currently the Asians provide +14) thats half as large so it may not work. :(

Like I said in the earlier post, those building this adapter for the first time should still use the Asian macros until I know if the CO will work or not. I probably should have kept quiet until I had a confirmation. Or just wait until we have confirmed results.
Click to expand...

yikes! Thanks Dan and Ed for elaborating on that! I've only spent roughly $75 on the individual pieces so far (Cokin P Ring, 58mm Macro +10, 72mm Macro +4, UV ring, Canon FD Mount, step up ring (could only find one!), Marlene's DVD cases). Now just need the stuff to arrive and get my PVC!
 
Just a bit off topic:

I have tried around 10pm (Vancouver time) to check my mail and someone has changed my password, so... if you emailed me and you did not hear back from me, don't wonder why. Now I just noticed my website is down. Whoever knows anything about this please take notice: whoever you are and whatever the reason... "messing with free will will not work ".

For the same reason, I can not post the clip with those two CU lenses. Sorry about that. Looks like freedom of speech is granted as long as you don't know what the heck you are talking about (just some thoughts)
 
that sux, sorry to hear about that Dan, I hope you can find out who is messing with you and can get it (and them) fixed.
 
That's a shame, indeed Dan.

This thread is awesome. I'm still too busy to get my hands on making an adapter myself, since the first tries to go to the most aclaimed photo shops in Barcelona and sneak into their drawers, failed, and were the easy shots in my quest for Nikon D Screen.

I've been following the advances closely, viewing all the linked footage and would like to take this oportunity to thank again to everyone who expressed his doubts and thoughts, and in particular to those explaining in detail what they did and how.

What's even more unusual is that people who already got on the way of dedicating themselves to take out on the market a version of a 35mm adapter, participate giving hints and advices, helping around, backing up this iniciative.

I presume this project might branch and reach very far and I'm happy for the forum and it's users to enjoy such a priviledge. There are people from number of continents striving in collective DIY effort to bring a valid budget option for reduced DOF effect.

Although I cannot post my work yet, I felt an urge to give this ackgnowledgement to all the active participants and to all of the others who secretly coin their decisions to pull up their sleaves and take part in this small revolution.

A democratization of audiovisual industry is very real to me.

Please, even you with commercial ready products, keep on posting, since not everybody will find time or skill or help to actually build an adapter himself, even knowing all the way through.

Time has become very limiting factor for many and some will prefer cashing out for a valid solution, rather than waste time. Here you'll most certainly find customers, and knowing well your product will be the best recomendation you'll ever get.

This is a win-win combination and I'm always thrilled when recognizing one.

Best regards to everyone from sunny Barcelona,
nenaD
 
Last edited:
Question about your adapter, i was ready to go on ebay and order my macro lens.

You built your lens mount using a +10 58mm lens? What is the difference between using a 72mm and 58mm. Is one better quality? easier to build? I would like to understand why the home depot said 72mm.
 
Wow, I tried an achromatic lens in my setup and the difference was staggering. The achromat was about a +6, but it had MUCH better magnification than the Asian +10 macro I was using. When I say better I mean that it doesn't warp the light the way the Asian macro does. I did another experiment by placing the +6 achromat next to the +10 Asian. You could really see the Asian glass bend the light once it got out of a certain 'circle' in the middle of the lens. I am sure there are better optical terms for this, but I do not know them. I definitely recommend getting better glass if you can. I didn't pay $200 for this achromatic lens (thank goodness) but it sure has been nice. I'm not sure if all achromatic lenses are created equal either. I just wanted to report my findings to encourage others. I'm sure Ed will have more to say about this when he gets his CO lens.
 
Theoreticaly a 72mm will have better quality than a 58mm. Reason #1 is that the glass is bigger and it’s easier to get the optics right. Reason #2 is that with all lenses, the closer to the center you are, the better the image. Most lenses have their “sweet spot” at around f5.6, and the image degrades as you open up from there.

I have both a 58mm +10 and and 72mm +10 and will do some tests once I get my GG.
 
no, niether the power of the macro (+1 to +10) nor the size of the macro (58mm or 72mm) will have any effect on the distance bewteen the GG and your SLR lens. As others who have improved my design have found, it seems that a 72mm will allow you to zoom past more of the bending that the macro does. I currently use a 58mm +10 with a 72mm +4 and have great results: abberation is subtle. BUT using just one 72mm +10 in place of the +4 (turned backwards) may give even better results.

ovjamaica- I am glad you have positive results from your achromat and that you saved on the price. My CO arrives tomorrow and my fingers are crossed :)
 
Last edited:
nicepants said:
What kind of lens did you get?
Click to expand...

I got a 51mm achromatic lens off of eBay. It's just a loose lens, no filter ring or threads. I'm going to try mounting it in a filter ring though and incorporate it more firmly into my setup. It's a 175mm focal length, so it's somewhere around a +6 (just shy actually, I think it's a +5.76) from what I have been told. It's a Zeiss lens and works REALLY well at magnifying the GG without distorting it, even all the way to the edges. I have a different type of GG that is being shipped out today. From what I have seen/heard this GG should work rather well. I have high hopes for it, but I'll just have to wait to play with it. If anyone wants a cheap way to experiment with achromats you can pull them off of binoculars. They are the large lenses on the "front" end of the binocs.
 
Edweirdo said:
As others who have improved my design have found, it seems that a 72mm will allow you to zoom past more of the bending that the macro does. I currently use a 58mm +10 with a 72mm +4 and have great results: abberation is subtle. BUT using just one 72mm +10 in place of the +4 (turned backwards) may give even better results.
Click to expand...
Edwierdo, what does the inverted macro lens do? I'v tried 72mm +10 (non-backward) that seems to work very well except there is noticable vignetting until I zoom in to about Z73.

Is there a way to "lock" the manual focus and zoom settings? It's easy to bump into them and ruin the setup.
 
PaPa: the rod system can help to stabilize the adapter when focusing it (which can shake the screen slightly) it also takes the weight off the DVX, and will help protect the entire setup should you bump it into something. Note: the support arm under the adapter doesnt come with it, you have to make that yourself.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=458984&postcount=1

magiclantern: you cant "lock" the focus/zoom but you can switch to manual focus and servo zoom then gaffers tape both rings. If you tape down your zoom ring be sure to switch the servo off!!! (or you will ruin the linkage if you bump the zoom toggle.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top