F35 Beginners: How do I power it?

James so for shoulder shooting if you need to walk you use 2 batteries? How much that weights 2 batteries, cinedeck, viewfinder and F35? Very heavy I think?

Film scientist, seller says capacity is 10A but for safety limit is 5.5A so I wonder what is the point of being 10A? This is 10A not 10Ah by the way.

How you calculate amp need, device watts divided by battery volt or device watts divided by device volt need?

What can happen if you use like 6.5A instead of 5.5A, fire or just warm?
 
SJX

Two options for shoulder shooting. I have a specially made battery belt (for sale) which takes two V-Locks on it, takes the weight off. The other option is just have someone walk with the block battery. I got my cable made up a bit longer than usual (5m) so that normally works fine.

As to what happens with a battery, really depends on the battery. In case of too high draw, the battery *should* just shut down, but I wouldn't trust a chinese battery to do that.

Amp need =

Equipment wattage divided by volts = amp need

Eg

Sony F35 @ 60w (roughly), for a 12V battery, you are drawing 5A. If the battery is 14.8v it is only drawing about 4a or so.

To get battery "watt" availability, times A by V. Eg. 10A battery @12v = 120w of draw
 
Yes, based on what James' said above.
A battery with roughly 12ah of power (using 120w of draw) would give you a little less than one hour (the F35 draws 56w, viewfinder ~10w, and the Cinedeck is another 60-65w).
It would be at the very edge of what most single batteries could deliver, exceeding the 9-10 amps, while draining the battery pretty quickly.
If you want to run both an F35 + Cinedeck without hiccups, you should definitely consider a block battery, or battery belt that gangs the current from two batteries.

FYI The benefit of using the 8 pin lemo cable to power the F35, is that the accessory port is activated, which is great for powering lower wattage devices like a an Odyssey or Gemini. You can easily get a accessory cable created for your devices at places like Abel Cine. When using the 11pin accessory port, Sony limits the voltage to 4A(@12v), and 5A (@24v) on the 3-pin, so it doesn't draw more than the camera and it protects the circuit boards from being damaged through power siphoning.

If you're intent on using a single battery, while using v-mount.
It's not cheap, but the option is available... Blueshape sells a 18.0Ah, 266Wh. You would probably be able to run the Cinedeck directly off the battery's D-Tap.
http://blueshape.net/index.php/products/batteries/v-lock-batteries/bv270hd.html?showall=1#


revised to correct typos. Thanks James. :)
 
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Couple of typos there Manuel I think. I believe you mean a 12Ah battery, not 120.

Also the cable to the F35 is an 8-pin lemo, the output 12v is the 11-pin

Just to clarify, I don't want anyone to get confused
 
Who has used the 8 pin Lemo in the rear of the camera to go to a wall AC adapter? I've seen options for plugging in the 4 pin XLR to the wall via Sony and 3rd party adapters with 4 pin jacks, but it seems the 8 pin connection is rarer. Is it as simple as getting a $250 8 pin Lemo to 4 pin XLR cable?

And while we're talking power, who uses the 11 pin and 3 pin outputs on the camera body? I'm currently using d-taps from batteries and battery plates, but something in me wants to try to use the 11 pin for powering the Pix or the Aja 3GM. The Aja multiplexer, by the way, must have no more than 5v coming in, otherwise it'll fry. You have to get a voltage regulated d-tap adapter if you're not going to use their wall plug. Found that out the hard way!

Hunter,
The Anton Bauer QRC-SC ALTA Gold Mount combined with a Tandem 150 is a great way to power the camera through AC, use the 11pin accessory port, and charge a battery at the same time.
http://www.abelcine.com/store/Anton-Bauer-QRC-SC-ALTA-Gold-Mount-for-Sony-F65-Camera/
 
To get battery "watt" availability, times A by V. Eg. 10A battery @12v = 120w of draw

Thanks for explanation. By 10A above you really mean 10Ah no?


F35 in manual says around 56W and viewfinder is normally 5W so will depend on recorder for final wattage.
 
Yes, based on what James' said above.
A battery with roughly 12ah of power (using 120w of draw) would give you a little less than one hour (the F35 draws 56w, viewfinder ~10w, and the Cinedeck is another 60-65w).
It would be at the very edge of what most single batteries could deliver, exceeding the 9-10 amps, while draining the battery pretty quickly.


So in this case 56+10+60=126. So amp draw would be 8.5A for 14.8 battery? Make sure I understood.

But I don't think of using cinedeck. My final draw would be like 6 or 6.5A. So only 0.5 or 1A above safe limit. Think this little would be problem? Battery specs is 230wh, 14.8 volts, Max output current 10A, max output recomended 5.5A.
 
Yes, I[SUB](A)[/SUB] = P[SUB](W)[/SUB]/ V[SUB](V)[/SUB]
that's the ideal draw assuming your battery never drops below 14.8v throughout its duty cycle.
Cheap or worn batteries could produce less voltage, but most of our devices are meant to operate at 12 volts or above. AB's have an operating range from 17v to 12v.
Things like temperature also play a factor, (cold weather means s*%tty battery life)

If you did use the Cinedeck, it could potentially suck up more juice depending on the codec you were using and how hard it was working to compress.
When I used it in the past, the Cinedeck was like a mini-computer, more resources were needed for certain codecs.
 
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Hunter,
The Anton Bauer QRC-SC ALTA Gold Mount combined with a Tandem 150 is a great way to power the camera through AC, use the 11pin accessory port, and charge a battery at the same time.
http://www.abelcine.com/store/Anton-Bauer-QRC-SC-ALTA-Gold-Mount-for-Sony-F65-Camera/

good call on that--I wish there was a V-mount version. The closest I've found is the Sony device mentioned in the manual:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/216132-REG/Sony_ACDN2B_AC_DN2B_AC_Power_Supply.html

but again, that's 4-pin xlr.
 
Yes--I actually have a modified version of this that plugs into the Lemo. It's fantastic for when I need to use batteries. My search is for a 8 pin wall adapter, for all those times we're doing stationary indoor interviews for 9 hrs a day.
 
Yes--I actually have a modified version of this that plugs into the Lemo. It's fantastic for when I need to use batteries. My search is for a 8 pin wall adapter, for all those times we're doing stationary indoor interviews for 9 hrs a day.

It's called the Anton Bauer DT-500. I picked one up about a month ago for $1,300 - they sell for around $2,000 new. Works great.
 
I bought the Sony AC-500 for almost nothing back in 2012. As far as I can remember, it does the same thing as the Anton Bauer, but do some research on that before jumping on it.
 
I bought the Sony AC-500 for almost nothing back in 2012. As far as I can remember, it does the same thing as the Anton Bauer, but do some research on that before jumping on it.

I can't find a manual for the Sony AC-500. But best as I can tell it's a 12volt power supply with a 4pin XLR out. It has a proprietary camera output as well, but I'm not sure what that consists of.

By contrast, the Anton Bauer is a 12v/24v power supply with the 8pin lemo output for the F35. That means no IF box, and the 24v accessory ports will be active.

On the other hand, the Sony AC-500 costs less than $100 used.
 
Hello everyone, I just got my Sony F35 and was wondering what V mount battery plate fits the back of the Interface Box? Do you think this could work: http://www.cinegearpro.com/tilta-pro-v-mount-power-distributor-kit-for-hyperdeck-shuttle.html

I would really appreciate if you could send me a link to a v mount battery plate that fits the back of the Interface Box. Thank you!

And is it OK to power the camera, Sony viewfinder HDFV-C30W and a hyperdeck shuttle altogether with the D tap to 4 pin XLR? Or do I need a plate with a lemo connector? Thanks!


Best,

David
 
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David

That plate will NOT work - from experience you cannot power these cameras over D-Tap or similar.

PM me as I have a couple of options and I have provided solutions for this problem to several of the users on here

James
 
My original (and workable) power solution was the Anton Bauer QRC-Dual-PT plate designed for the Sony PMW-F3. It's an anton plate that runs to 4pin XLR, and has screw holes for mounting the battery plate to your gear. Now, if you go that route, the screw holes won't match the ones on the back of the IF box. The solution is to have a local machine shop make you a simple metal plate to connect the two pieces.

Batteries would really need to be Hytron 100 or better. You ought to have no problems powering the hyperdeck from the power tap.
 
My original (and workable) power solution was the Anton Bauer QRC-Dual-PT plate designed for the Sony PMW-F3. It's an anton plate that runs to 4pin XLR, and has screw holes for mounting the battery plate to your gear. Now, if you go that route, the screw holes won't match the ones on the back of the IF box. The solution is to have a local machine shop make you a simple metal plate to connect the two pieces.

Batteries would really need to be Hytron 100 or better. You ought to have no problems powering the hyperdeck from the power tap.

Viddo, he is looking for a V-mount solution... unless Anton bauer also do a V-Lock adapter but last time I checked everything they make was gold mount?
 
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