Originally posted by did
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Just because it is not always obviously I'd like to make a definitive list for the OP of 'crap to turn off when shooting cine-ei mode' and another one for 'stuff to switch on or off and all the quirks for AF modes'.
Any thoughts on that appreciated.
EDIT: It seems there's nothing hiding in sub menus for EI mode. I don't use AF really so any advice on setup for that for the OP would be great.Last edited by Ben Scott; 03-11-2021, 05:02 AM.
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FYI - Mat (broughtonfilm) and I have been discussing adapting various Loupes for the FX6. So far we are looking at:
- Hoodman H32MB : I picked this one as I could get it shipped to Australia easily and it is widely available, inexpensive, gets good reviews (for it's price point), and most importantly looks like it is simple to adapt.
- Kamerar QV-1 : broughtonfilm picked this one as he thinks the optics are good (at this price point). I have one on order but it is a month away (it is harder to get for us Ozzies). Till it arrives down under we are not sure the best way of tackling this one.
I've had the H32MB for a few days and have gone through the rough prototypes and I'm now polishing the design. As before, I'm printing the adapter in ePA-CF for strength, low weight, high accuracy, and in this case the Matte Black finish is ideal for eliminating reflection when using.
I'll post some more details as I refine the design, but it will pretty much look like the following pics. All you will need is:
- Print the adapter
- 2 x O-Rings (20-25mm) or equivalent to mount it to the FX6 screen
- 2 x M3 25mm nuts/bolts or equivalent for the hinge
- Tripod screw to attach the Hoodman H32MB
This is my first Loupe, so while I've nothing to compare it to, my first impressions are positive:
- It is much better/clearer using the Loupe without my reading glasses than the Screen with reading glasses
- Is firmly attached, and flips up
- The adapter itself is only 15mm so a bit smaller then the stock FX6 sun shade
- The loupe + adapter weighs 150g and their is no issue with FX6 screen drooping
- Eye position does seems to matter else edges can be soft with chromatic aberration
- I'm going to have to change my rig around about so that it falls more naturally to where my right eye is when using my "el cheapo" shoulder rig.
Any feedback or suggestions would be welcome.
Edit: Finished some minor changes, and the 3D File can be downloaded here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791597
Thanks
Nathan & Mat
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L3.jpgLast edited by jmone; 03-12-2021, 02:36 AM.
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I've posted a different design that also replaces the body of the Hoodman (just keeps the section with the optics) - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793634/files
It's not as elegant in that you need to print with supports (and they are hard to clean up with ePA-CF). Anyway it is 30g lighter and smaller than the other version with the stock Hoodman body,
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I also just watched Alister Chapmans latest video on the rigging the FX6, and one item he mentioned was the a Loupe can destroy your LCD screen as it focus the sun onto the screen if you are not carful, so..... I shined a bright torch through the Hoodman Optics and did not see that it could focus the light to a point. So, I'm not sure this is really a concern, but does anyone have any experience on this?
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Originally posted by jmone View PostI also just watched Alister Chapmans latest video on the rigging the FX6, and one item he mentioned was the a Loupe can destroy your LCD screen as it focus the sun onto the screen if you are not carful, so..... I shined a bright torch through the Hoodman Optics and did not see that it could focus the light to a point. So, I'm not sure this is really a concern, but does anyone have any experience on this?
But beware with Loupes they can burn the screen if not careful
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Thanks for all the advice on burn in from Loupes, it just would not have occurred to me.
So, I've now added a Eye Cap / Flap / Cover for the Hoodman. You can leave it attached when using the loupe as it is printed with TPE (flexible). The flap can be pulled up with a fingernail or by pressing down on the teether lug, so you can use the loupe without removing the entire cap. Pushing the flap down secures it into the Hoodman's eye piece. There is also a teether to so it can be attached to the body of the Hoodman if you prefer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4794805
cover.jpgLast edited by jmone; 03-14-2021, 08:50 PM.
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I don't understand what happened to the irises we used to use in optical viewfinders, to protect the glass (and the film gate) when you weren't using them. It seems the best anyone offers now (even with $10,000 options from Arri) is flappy, irritating rubber caps/covers.
An iris (or any kind of mechanical cover) just makes life so much easier (and less irritating).
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Originally posted by Grug View PostI don't understand what happened to the irises we used to use in optical viewfinders, to protect the glass (and the film gate) when you weren't using them. It seems the best anyone offers now (even with $10,000 options from Arri) is flappy, irritating rubber caps/covers.
An iris (or any kind of mechanical cover) just makes life so much easier (and less irritating).
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Originally posted by broughtonfilm View PostThey were never there to protect the glass (and the film gate) but to prevent the light from getting into the light path and exposing the film in situations when the eye was not pressed against the eyepiece.
Covers should be built-in by default (heating elements too - to prevent fogging, Arri are the only ones still doing that).
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