Aputure EZ Box For the HR672 LED

Thanks for the review, Erik. Caught it on FB... Looks nice but a little harsh. Wish they could have made the box a little deeper but for a compact run n' gun solution not bad... How does the EZ box compare IYO to an umbrella or umbrella softbox with the 672S?
 
Thanks for the review, Erik. Caught it on FB... Looks nice but a little harsh. Wish they could have made the box a little deeper but for a compact run n' gun solution not bad... How does the EZ box compare IYO to an umbrella or umbrella softbox with the 672S?
Thanks!

For a key I would go with a larger diffusion like shooting through a 43" silk umbrella. Much softer and the light mount has the umbrella holder built in so super fast and easy to setup. This also gets the light source much farther away from the diffusion. makes the light softer.

I like the EZ Box with the 35 Degree Grid for product shots and back lights. All in all it will work for certain alighting setups but I would rather not use it as a key. I feel it's not soft enough.
 
Thanks!

For a key I would go with a larger diffusion like shooting through a 43" silk umbrella. Much softer and the light mount has the umbrella holder built in so super fast and easy to setup. This also gets the light source much farther away from the diffusion. makes the light softer.

I like the EZ Box with the 35 Degree Grid for product shots and back lights. All in all it will work for certain alighting setups but I would rather not use it as a key. I feel it's not soft enough.

Thanks, Erik. I shoot a lot of doc/corporate stuff with talking heads so maybe I'll try the umbrella. I used to use on my old Lowel hard lights but I wasn't too impressed because they had a weird uneven spread. Any particular umbrella from BH you would recommend? Thanks
 
I think the EZ Box looks excellent for shooting in tight spots, which is I've had to do in my corporate type interviews. One person sitting at a desk in a small office.
Umbrellas, which I've used, work when you have the space but I'm concerned about bouncing off of white walls and light spill in general.

BTW also used Lowel lights. The grid for a Rifa 66 is close to the price of the 672 itself. I have Omni, Totas, Pro light and used umbrellas on them so you have a frame of reference about my comments.

It would be interesting if Aputure made a larger system for the Amarans, longer arms to get it further away, larger diffuser and therefore bigger box and grid. Perhaps that's beyond the typical use of the 672s.
 
Thanks for the review Eric. As to making a larger softbox for these lights, wouldn't this be as simple as making the 4 arms longer and just extending everything? If anybody has the ear of the company maybe this would be good for them to know. We all want portable but soft as possible.
 
I think the EZ Box looks excellent for shooting in tight spots, which is I've had to do in my corporate type interviews. One person sitting at a desk in a small office.
Umbrellas, which I've used, work when you have the space but I'm concerned about bouncing off of white walls and light spill in general.

BTW also used Lowel lights. The grid for a Rifa 66 is close to the price of the 672 itself. I have Omni, Totas, Pro light and used umbrellas on them so you have a frame of reference about my comments.

It would be interesting if Aputure made a larger system for the Amarans, longer arms to get it further away, larger diffuser and therefore bigger box and grid. Perhaps that's beyond the typical use of the 672s.
Yeah, Craig, I had the Rifa 55. Great light but a little expensive and I got tired of lugging around those giant spiral lamps to get 5500K...
 
Thanks!

For a key I would go with a larger diffusion like shooting through a 43" silk umbrella. Much softer and the light mount has the umbrella holder built in so super fast and easy to setup. This also gets the light source much farther away from the diffusion. makes the light softer.

I like the EZ Box with the 35 Degree Grid for product shots and back lights. All in all it will work for certain alighting setups but I would rather not use it as a key. I feel it's not soft enough.


Hi Erik,
Thanks for the video and great review.

I have a couple of questions:

  1. Is the collapsible Westcott 43" White Umbrella ideal?
  2. Which travel-ready lightstand do you recommend to hold the 672 as well as attach an umbrella off?


Thanks Erik
 
Hi Erik,
Thanks for the video and great review.

I have a couple of questions:
  1. Is the collapsible Westcott 43" White Umbrella ideal?
  2. Which travel-ready lightstand do you recommend to hold the 672 as well as attach an umbrella off?

Thanks Erik

The aputure has an umbrella mount in the swivel connector - you just need any decent stand. The fixture is tiny. It's handy to stick a 24" umbrella on it for tight spaces; that can even be handheld by a grip if you're walking with talent. The umbrella through the mount should be a decent china ball substitute as well, the thing's light enough to rig in some tight spots.

Keep in mind, the aputure 672 doesn't put out much light to speak of at all. My meter shows 1/2 stop more than a dual biax, then knock off more for diffusion. Really not much of a light as far as output goes. If you're in small spaces but able to shoot through diffusion and have power, a quad biax will make you much happier, especially if you're hoping to hold the slightest window detail.

Quad biax with diffusion hung across the barn doors. Fast as hell to setup and easy to pack:

frame-c.jpg
 
When you mention the 672 you have to be specific whether W vs S models. The S model is 6040 lux at 1 meter compared to the W which is 2080 lux.
 
I have some chinese kino knockoff quads, but they have real metal yokes which I like better than anything else; the light isn't dead-nuts perfect, usually 1/8 minus green gets it good - but the quad is powerful enough that I usually just white balance to it; if there's window light coming in, the custom WB tends to warm that up nicely. I could buy trumatch tubes for it but have never been in a situation where it was needed. I have 4 or 5 duals as well, they can be good for backlights, mainly get them out for big green screens though.

People complain about having to gel a daylight fixture, but to me it's only an issue if you're holding detail in a window (usually out of focus but you want a sense of the view and hold the blue of the sky, say) - and almost every time I've shot like that, the window light is more gray-blue than clean 5500k (and office windows are usually treated with something that mucks with the color as well); so you either have to gel your fixtures with, say, 1/4 CTB, or WB to the fixture and see what you get from the windows.

And… throw in the fact that a quad biax is not going to let you keep window detail anyway - in most cases the window is just too hot. I use a 575 HMI par through diffusion (about twice the kick of a 575 fresnel, the par being crazy efficient). My par has a 6500k or so globe, so it's either 1/2 CTO or WB to the par - this makes the window get a really delicious warm tone.

I almost always stick an 82A filter (mild cooling filter, like 1/4 CTB or so) in front of the lens when white balancing, too - much prettier look for skin to force the WB a bit warm. This frame was done that way -

frame1.jpg
 
Thanks, nice frame grab. Basically, I'm just trying to find a way to bring up overall exposure in the room without relying on practicals. The Aputures are great lights but just not enough throw. Used to have a Lowel DV creator kit and Rifa 55 and to be honest I kind off miss it but I live in NYC and it was such a PITA to lug around. Thinking of picking up a Tota again -- they were great to just gel and bounce them off the ceiling ...
 
...I live in NYC and it was such a PITA to lug around...
My story as well. I still have my Lowel lights including two Totas and Rifa 66 and with the CFL mod as well.

There needs to be an "urban solo shooter" light kit. 672s is part of that. Sola ENG for small fresnel. I'm thinking Westcott Flex 10"x10" might be closest to bright wide beam portable (tota ish).
I think the challenge with LEDs is light modifiers. Look at the extent of discussion on the EZ Box for example.
 
Yeah, "urban solo shooter" would be a perfect name for it, Craig. I also had the CFL fixture and carrying around those spirals was a real pain... Would love to pick up an LS1 -- would fit perfectly -- but need to save up a bit -- might pick up a Tota in the meantime...
 
I've gotta say though - I always have a sense that the "first lighting kit, which LED panel" posts are, I dunno, someone young and starting out that's come to believe LEDs are the best thing because they're "new technology". So I tend to really strongly advise they go for as many lumens as their budget allows, unless their filmmaking dreams involve never being near a power outlet and always shooting at 1000 iso.

But I am very impressed with the aputures as a way to bring extra detail lighting to a shoot. There are times even a couple 3" fresnels add too much bulk to my "get it in with one rock-n-roller cart load" solo-interviewer philosophy. 90% of my interviews use a quad biax or a 400 HMI softbox (that thing's pretty freaking bright!) In both cases, the aputure gives me a tiny light that's super useful - just not as a key.

(The client loved this crazy wall, sorry) I really dig the hard, white outline on this guy's face. Just pointed the 672 at him, no flags or softbox or barndoors, just a scrap of warm gel (looked like a 1/4 CTO or in the range) and it was at maybe 40% output. So getting past the idea of these weak-ass little things as keys - I like the possibilities, and I'll likely mess with some sort of grid and also a deep sort of box as a snoot-ish modifier… and probably get the cheaper model as well if it uses the same style batteries. I could pack 4 of these in the space of one small fresnel.

Which leads to the question… clip-on sort of box thing with 6" fresnel lens mounted to it? Worth a try...

Anyway, did all my interviews yesterday with the Aputure as a hair light or cheek light:

SAM_0001.jpg
 
I've been very happy with my 672c, so I ordered the EZ Box+, which arrived today. Fitting those white plastic rods into the holes in the metal blocks was VERY difficult. I wasn't able to get them all in with the blocks and box attached to the light, but I finally had success when the blocks were NOT on the light; and even then it took a LOT of force. :cry:
So I took another look at Erik's video, and he seems to have no difficulty at all. Is anyone else having my problem? Is the fit something that will improve with use?
 
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