my home made adapter

E

earwiggy

New member
I've finished my project after lots of experiments, i tried etching cream on glass but it always ended up blotchy, any way i found a glass place that did etched glass which has hardly any grain, they cut it to circles of 90mm in diameter and drilled 4mm hole in center, i then attached it to a model aircraft propellor mount which fits snug on a cd motor, i have a crap achromat at the moment which means i need a long extension tube from my V1E.
anyhow here are some pics
 

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How thick is that glass? When I made my adapter I cut a circle out of a large glass focus screen. That glass was 1/16th of an inch think. I'm interested to see some example images.

The grain on the glass looks very fine. You may find you'll need a condenser lens added to your design to eliminate the hot spot.

Also, get the best achromat you can. it makes all the difference in the world.
 
yeah i know about the achromat, will put up some footage in next couple of days, the glass is 4mm thick by the way, i have an achromat which is marumi +5, i'm wondering if i can add two together!
 
I had a set of macro/achromat lenses that ranged from +2 through +10. You can add them together to create whatever diopter you want. Problem is that in any combination I tried, I had pretty bad CA and the picture suffered in edge-to-edge sharpness and overall quality. When I used an achromat that is used for the SGPro, suddenly, the picture quality was much, much better. I didn't come up with that idea myself, it was recommended by a couple of DIY adapter builders in this forum and they were right.

Here are examples:


Using macro lenses: www.exposureroom.com/dof70test

Using the SGPro achromat: www.exposureroom.com/70mmtest

With the addition of a condenser lens: www.exposureroom.com/doftest3
 
Cool ,i wouldnt use glass for screen ,too heavy for batteries, dont use less than 58mm for lenses like achromats or macros cause it wont help much and you will be on border "vignetting or enable to focus on screen".
 
bwwd said:
Cool ,i wouldnt use glass for screen ,too heavy for batteries, dont use less than 58mm for lenses like achromats or macros cause it wont help much and you will be on border "vignetting or enable to focus on screen".
Click to expand...

I don't think glass is too heavy as long as it isn't too thick. The glass GG on my DIY mid-Format adapter is a little larger than a CD/DVD size but it is only 1/16th of an inch thick and two AA batteries have no problem getting that thing up to some very high RPMs.

The new SGBlade 35mm adapter also uses a glass GG for the Rotorazor 1 GG.
 
cool but ive seen difference in speed between lets say pouch and plastic when battery is not exactly new, both materials ale light but there is still noticeable difference.How did you made the glass ,with sandpaper ? When i used sandpaper i had to put more batteries to remove flickering ,its pretty hard to maxe it look the same in all areas with sandpaper.
And i also tried to put it (spinning screen)as close as i could to the camera lens , i dont have anything between camera lens and screen cause i wanted it sharp , i lost some sharpness when i put macro on camera lenses.Also i wanted it close cause when you zoom in and camera is far then you losing some sharpness too.
 
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bwwd said:
cool but ive seen difference in speed between lets say pouch and plastic when battery is not exactly new, both materials ale light but there is still noticeable difference.How did you made the glass ,with sandpaper ? When i used sandpaper i had to put more batteries to remove flickering ,its pretty hard to maxe it look the same in all areas with sandpaper.
And i also tried to put it (spinning screen)as close as i could to the camera lens , i dont have anything between camera lens and screen cause i wanted it sharp , i lost some sharpness when i put macro on camera lenses.Also i wanted it close cause when you zoom in and camera is far then you losing some sharpness too.
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I think he purchased frosted glass. As for me, I found a guy selling large glass focus screens on Ebay. It has a fine, even grain. I just had to cut a circle out of what I purchased. No sand paper involved :)
 
the glass is 4mm thick and 90mm in diameter, it spins easily with 2 aa batteries, the glass isn't ground as i tried this and there was always a bit of flicker, this glass is laser etched i think, or it could be etched with acid, it cost me £4 for 3 discs.
i will upload some footage today even though i have a crap achromat!
 
Nice job! However I think you might run into problems with glass that thick. I know that when I used a piece of glass that I hand frosted, it was a bit too thick and suffered really bad edge to edge sharpness. You can also run into ghosting and this can be a pain to get rid of. Also seen alot in the cannon focusing screens.


I actually have the same exact aluminum extruded box for my new spinning adapter that I'm working on. You know they also sell different color boarders that fit around the edges, makes it look pretty cool...


Can't wait to see your final results....:thumbup:
.
 
that little white thing is just a holder for my motor that i got from maplin, it screws to a bracket i made so that i can adjust it's positioning

http://www.pulsecinema.com/M2/
the glass looks about the same as in the M2, check the link
 

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Yes looks pretty good, definitely need a new achromat. Here's a good place to find a cheap, but good achromat if you have a little time to make a case for one.



Read thru them and you'll need to know your focal length. From the looks of it, you could use a 100mm FL or 125mm FL at 60mm OD. You could also look into condenser lenses that you can mount inside the unit.

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/category/achromats_1.html


:)
 
Cool project! I want to see it once you call it finished. I wonder how you could make the motor mount sturdy as possible. That glass looks heavy and it would give you tons of issues if you bang it around. All metal mounting would be best, perhaps a solid aluminum piece if possible. Also a socket for the metal prong going through the glass so that there isn't stress on the motors prong/arm thing.... good times, fun project.
 
twocik23 said:
Yes looks pretty good, definitely need a new achromat. Here's a good place to find a cheap, but good achromat if you have a little time to make a case for one.



Read thru them and you'll need to know your focal length. From the looks of it, you could use a 100mm FL or 125mm FL at 60mm OD. You could also look into condenser lenses that you can mount inside the unit.

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/category/achromats_1.html


:)
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cheers for that, no idea whatsoever about achromats and focal length's etc, any help on what to choose would be great, my camera is a sony hvrv1e with 62mm mount, i also have a 72mm step down ring
 
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