Converting Fresnel to HMI -- Will this Lamp/Ballast Combo Work?

slondon

Well-known member
On edit: (Should be titled converting Tungsten Fresnel to HMI, but you know what I mean.)

I know there are people here with experience making DIY metal halide lights out of old tungsten ones. Will the following combination work? Do I need an ignitor or anything else? Do I just plug this in and the lamp fires up?


For a lamp, a G22 base 575 watt single end that burns in any position. While the following reference gives the color temp as 6000K, other manufacturers give it as 5600K.
For a ballast, a light electronic model. I know a link to an eBay auction item is highly perishable so I shall provide the online store link.


http://stores.ebay.com/Sunglow-Hydroponics-and-Electronics
my.php

LUMATEK 600w Digital E-Ballast
* Brightest Ballast on the Market!!! *

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600 watt ballast comes in 120v or 240v, choose when you order.
Absolutely silent... no vibration or noise of any kind... no walls vibrating when you turn it on!

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Up for auction is one Lumatek digital e-ballast, 600 watts, and you can pick which voltage version you want, the 600w ballast comes in either 120v or 240v. This ballast can run BOTH High Pressure Sodium (hps) bulbs and Metal Halide (mh) bulbs automatically. This electronic ballast is BRAND NEW and protected by a great warranty, 3 years + 2 prorated, so 5 total! The ballast comes with a power cord only. Since this is a Hydrofarm product, the cord set is sold separately, if you don't already have the cord set, you will need to purchase the All System™ Cord Set (socket assembly) to hook up with any of the Hydrofarm reflectors. We also have conversion plugs that will allow you to hook up with a Sunlight Socket assembly. If you already have the assembly, then bada bing this auction is good to go! If you need the extra parts I have lots of inventory. You can buy the Hydrofarm All-System Cord Set from my eBay store. If you purchase a cord set in addition to a ballast, the shipping cost for the cord set will be 50% off.

WINNING BIDDRERS ID WILL BE KEPT PRIVATE (anonymous).
LUMATEK 600w Digital E-Ballast
Price: Retail Price:
$249.95


Your Price:
ONLY $199.95

Your Savings: $50.00
Brand: Lumatek
Category: Hydroponics
Condition: * BRAND NEW & FACTORY SEALED *

Need a different ballast? Visit the ballast section of our eBay Hydroponics store for more ballasts. You can also find more hydroponics related items in our eBay Store.

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Manufacturer's Description:
The best digital ballasts money can buy!!!
Test data has shown that a 600 watt digital ballast produces only 5% less usable light than a 1000 watt "core and coil" ballast. It even uses less electricity than the old style "core and coil" 600 watt ballast. The Digital Revolution is here!

Using your same 600 watt bulb and the new lumatek ballast you get much higher (20%-30%) light output. More light equals more yield. You pay a little more for a lumatek ballast but with the same performance throughout the life of the ballast (as opposed to core and coil getting noisier and with worsening performance over time) you can save the extra initial outlay, over and over and over again!

Completely silent.
Small compact design.
Fast start up.
Produces less heat.
Cut-off circuitry.
Efficient.
NO FANS.
Longer bulb life.
Broader light spectrum.
More Lumens.
Fully interchangeable
Why choose an electronic ballast over a core-and-coil (magnetic) ballast?
Fast start-up ...It reaches full brightness in under one minute; magnetic ballasts typically take about twenty minutes
Completely silent ...you have to put your ear up to the ballast before you can detect the slightest sound
Small compact design ...600watt ballast weighs less than 4.5 kilos compared to almost 20 kilos for magnetic ballasts.
Produce less heat
Cut-off circuitry ...Automatic cut off when a short is detected. For ultimate safety.
Longer bulb life...Lumen output loss over time is dramatically less than with magnetic ballasts
Fully interchangeable ...Lumatek ballasts can light both HPS and MH bulbs
More lumen output...20%-30% more lumens output...More light equals more yield
Why choose Lumatek over future bright, terra grow and ROM light electronic ballasts?
Lumatek ballasts include a 15 foot RF shielded output cord that can be extended up to 30 feet. (Allowing positioning of ballasts in another room or at great distance from your space.). All other digital ballasts can only have a 10 foot lamp cord and most of them interfere with radio and satellite TV signals because they are not shielded.
There are no fans to break down or make noise; fan cooled ballast's have a very high failure rate. Lumatek ballasts are very, very reliable. Which is why we offer the excellent warranty.
Lumatek products - fast start upThe ballast can be mounted in areas of high heat. Up to 140° Farenheit.
Every Lumatek ballast is burned for 12 hours at the factory
Excellent three year, full exchange warranty
Lumatek ballasts are 8% brighter than ROM and future ballasts
No fans to break down after 1 or 2 years
Safer - The Lumatek ballast is completely sealed from the inside
Lumatek ballasts are available in 250 watt, 400 watt and 600 watt, 750 watt and 1000 watts.

Lumatek Digital Ballasts, Brightest Ballast on the Market
The Lumatek Ballast is the brightest ballast in the industry. Light meter readings indicate the Lumatek ballast is 10 to 20% brighter than common core and coil magnetic ballasts on the market. The Lumatek is 8% to 15% brighter than the other electronic ballasts out there.

Over time core and coil ballasts degrade, become louder, use more electricity and produce more heat while the lumen output declines. Digital ballasts do not degrade and maintain lumen output and efficiency over the life of the Lumatek ballast. Magnetic ballasts output can fluctuate by up to 10% during a 12-hour cycle. Lumatek ballasts will give you a constant output without any fluctuation.

Magnetic ballasts can use up to 75 watts (hence 675 input watts) converting the electricity while the Lumatek is sending the FULL 600 watts to the bulb lighting it to its fullest potential. Lumatek ballast achieve superior light meter readings in comparison to other digital ballasts on the market by using microprocessors to detect the precise type of lamp being run and supply the correct power necessary. The microprocessors are “chips” inside each Lumatek ballast. Some lamps are able to use slightly more than 600 watts. The Lumatek ballast will detect this and increase output accordingly.

Electronic Ballast vs. E-Ballast
The Lumatek ballast is an E-ballast unlike brand other electronic ballasts. What is the difference? E-ballasts use a micro processor similar to a personal computer which runs a software program. This microprocessor allows the E-ballast to run both halide or sodium lamps, switch between 50 and 60 hertz, make adjustments for the type of bulb it is running and, will even compensate for degrading lamps by increasing output. The other Electronic ballasts on the market have a constant output and cannot make adjustments or changes. They will light a MH lamp but quickly degrade it.

Lumatek ballasts are programmed to allow for a soft-start and do not require an initial power surge to light the ballast. This increases the lamp life and allows end users to start multiple ballasts simultaneously without a (breaker tripping) power surge. Lumatek ballast will also detect a short in the wiring or a defective lamp; it simply shuts itself off letting the user know something is wrong with the wiring or the bulb is defective. This should be kept in mind if you have a ballast that keeps shutting off. In most cases there is a problem with the output wiring (from the ballast to the lamp).

Can Lumatek Ballasts run any wattage of lamps?
Lumatek ballast is lamp specific and only operates corresponding lamp wattage.

Why are there separate ballasts for 120v or 240v?
Lumatek ballasts are voltage specific and cannot be modified to change the input voltage. The 240v digital ballast is more efficient producing light while generating less heat than the 120v counterpart. Other electronic ballasts or dual input voltage digital ballasts are never able to achieve the same efficiency as a Lumatek dedicated 240v e-ballast.

Surface Temperatures
The Lumatek 600w 240v unit can be expected to reach temperatures of up to 107 degrees while the 600w 120v version can reach temperatures of up to 120 degrees within 8 hours of operation. Do not be fooled by inferior units that use fans. Fans do not make the ballast run cooler; they simply remove the heat and increase the temperature of growing area, if the ballast is in the growing area.

Warranty Information
Lumatek offers the best warranty in the industry: 3-year replacement and 2 year prorated, for a total of five years. Lumatek will replace any defective units with brand new units for 3 years from the date of purchase. These units should not be modified or physically damaged. During the 4th and 5th year Lumatek will supply the customer a pro-rated replacement ballast, at $95 for year 4 and $135 for year 5. All warranty issues will be handled directly through the Hydroponic Gardening store where you purchased your Lumatek.

Warranty Information
Do not attempt to open a Lumatek ballast. This will void the warranty. If you were to open up the ballast you would find that all components are encased in epoxy, so there is nothing you can change without special electronic equipment. The return rate is less than 1% and service done by Lumatek’s distributor would include checking the microprocessors and re-programming if necessary.

Digital Ballast Market Confusion
There are several look-a-likes to the Lumatek in the market. Please do not assume that these have the same quantity and perform as well as the Lumatek Digital E-ballast. They typically use inferior components and technology and are not true E- ballasts.​
 
Its not that simple. The Lumatek won't work because its a 600w and designed for a different type of bulb than the Osram HMI 575w. You would need a 600w regular quartz metal halide bulb for that ballast and it won't be so easy finding the color temperature and CRI you want either. As far as I know, you can't find a 575w ballast for a reasonable price in the USA unless you buy a used one or until we can get to the point we start selling them which we will someday. The 575w and all the other Osram type HMI bulbs are a bit different in their requirements and therefore require a different kind of ballast and yes they do need an ignitor too. So its not so easy to do this using Osram HMI type bulbs. My article I wrote on the subject in my blog last year treated this pretty well.

The "doable" sizes using commercial CDM or quartz type metal halide bulbs for a project like this are: 70w, 150w, 175w, 250w, 400w, 1000w. You would need to use a bulb of this type in order to find a ballast thats affordable:

http://www.eyelighting.com/cleanarc.html

Thats made by Iwasaki Electric (known as "Eye lighting" in usa) and they are a good maker of this type of bulb. Color temperature is most commonly 4000K though for many of these bulbs so it is not easy to find what you need. The 6500K of the Iwasaki bulb is usable and the CRI is 90 so you can't get all that much better than that. The main drawback is, all these commercial type high wattage bulbs are very big and will take a large fresnel to accomodate them. The smaller HMI bulbs are ideal but as I said earlier, its too hard to find a reasonably priced ballast and ignitor both. Even if you find a used one, where will you get the ignitor?

Also, on color temp of the Osram bulbs: all Osram HMI bulbs are 6000K regardless of what other dealers that sell them say. You can believe what the Osram site says about Osram HMI products. Eiko or Ushio makes a compatible HMI bulb at 5600K though. 5600K or 6000K, the difference is not enough to create a problem.
 
I'm seriously interested in how to get those eyelighting bulbs to work in somethign farily simple. I would love to have a few, even if cumbersome, 3200w tungsten equiv in lumins lights to use for outdoor night scenes. They don't need to fit in a fresnel.

Long as they work
 
I converted a B&M 2K the other day to MH, but have not mounted the ballast yet. Good light, well built, and a lot of room inside and already designed for a large bulb.

Had a 3200k 400w bulb, ballast, and igniter. (Actually, im not certain on the color temp of the bulb, its been years since I bought it. It looks pretty warm, but I'm speculating)

With a bit of modification to the light it was easy and works good.

Great color, very bright. Pretty cheap setup, I suspect under $300 for everything. However, I'm not sure where I got the MH parts (or quite remeber how much I paid)... It was left over from an old project.

Light looks something like this


mole412.jpg
 
I don't think I will mount the ballast on the light itself. No sense in adding even more weight to the already heavy setup. I will probably just put it in an enclosure to interface in between the bulb and power source.
 
Yes I know that company. We've talked to them before but couldn't come to a reasonable deal. The products seem to work so you might try it out if you think their price is okay.
 
To my knowledge they do not sell in the USA except through that "Stephen Studio" on Ebay and he doesn't sell anything other than complete fixtures with ballast like we do. You'll have trouble communicating with them as well if you do get hold of them as none of them speak English (at least they didn't when I visited them in Beijing last year).
 
I converted a chinese blue line 1K to a 575 HMI. It already has the correct G22 base. I used a ballast extracted from an old overhead projector.

It works great, but I had to keep the ballast cable shorter than I wanted, @ around 12 ft. And give up the (cold sorry -warm) start capability. Be sure to have good heat dissipation on the ballast as that was were I spent most of the work time.
 
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I converted a chinese blue line 1K to a 575 HMI. It already has the correct G22 base. I used a ballast extracted from an old overhead projector.

It works great, but I had to keep the ballast cable shorter than I wanted, @ around 12 ft. And give up the cold start capability. Be sure to have good heat dissipation on the ballast as that was were I spent most of the work time.

What problems were there with having a longer ballast cable?
 
I tried with about 18ft. But it wouldn't start. So i had to shorten it. (now I used a regular power cable. It is possible that trying a cable with special low capacitance might have worked better)
 
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Most of these kinds of ballasts, especially if they have an internal ignitor, will require a relatively short cable. Typically its not recommended over 10 feet so 12 feet is on the edge.
 
how much noise do these ballasts make, I just picked up an old stage spotlight, and I figure its long enough to house both the focusable light and the ballast.

Jason
 
In case anyone was wondering (as I was for a few weeks), the Lumatek 400W e-ballast will light an Osram HQI-TS 400W bulb. I was concerned it wouldn't strike, but it lit right up no problem (unlike the Alzo I've been toying with... pretty finnicky).
Total spent so far - about $250.
Now to find a fixture for it... wonder if it'll fit in my 2K Arrilite...

Cheers,
Sean


(watch out for the UV from that bulb tho)
 
Seaner if you want a good cheap large houseing find an old 2k bardwell an mac, they actaully made great lights back in the day, still may, just havent worked with there newer stuff.

I just picked up a stage spot light, I'm plamming on truning it into an hmi, with the ballast built into the case.


Jason
 
Seaner if you want a good cheap large houseing find an old 2k bardwell an mac, they actaully made great lights back in the day, still may, just havent worked with there newer stuff.

Thanks Jason.. will check it out. Also was looking at the 2K Moles 412's from pyramid-films.com. Good luck with your conversion.. what ballast/bulb combo are you going with? My choice of the HQI-TS was more or less a trade-off between bulb size and cost/lifespan. (12000 hours, $60 or so, but 8-inches long and fairly high UV output). I figure the $100 saved by not going with the smaller SE bulb will cover the cost of the larger fixture, and should last 10x longer than the HSR/HMI/etc.

Cheers,
Sean
 
no sure yet, I know I want a 1k later I may make another 400, but I think any himi kit should start out with a 1k, I've worked with 1200s and they are amazing.

Jason
 
Are there any conversion plans or instructions I could find online. I'm a complete dilettante when it comes to wiring...but I've got a Mole 2k that I could spare to convert into an hmi!
 
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