Greenscreen in vegas?

C

Chris Klidonas

New member
I have a few questions about greenscreen.

first is it best to capture in 24f, 30P or 60i? will it matter much to the ease and quality of the greenscreen?

Next lets say I have the greenscreen big enough to surround the subject but not wide enough to extend to the extreme sides of the frame. What is the best way to greenscreen the subject and also get rid of both sides of the frame which are not green but not needed.

In other words, I have the shot framed with enough greenscreen around the subject to give say a square frame of subject and all green surround, but not enough width to get all green, but since its all got to go anyway I assume there is a way to mask off the sides regardless of color and then drop out the green around the subject in addition? I hope that is making sense.

And as for the shooting would a frame rate of 1/24 or 1/48 in 24 or 1/30th or 1/60th in 30P be better? Also in 60i I would use 1/60th so this is semi dependent on which is the best frame rate to use.

Another fast one that may be vegas dependent, if I am shooting 24f in a canon hv20, hg10 and now hf10 it needs a pulldown what does that mean and if I do not do it and edit to a 24p movie after the green screen is that a big problem or not one that will effect the actual greenscreen dropout effect?

Thanks for any help.
 
Progressive is much better.

Use a cookie cutter or bezier mask as a "garbage matte" to get rid of everything but the green area immediately around your subject.

A fraction is not a frame rate; it's a shutter speed. A framerate would "23.976p" (24p) or "59.94i" (60i). You want progressive. Whether it's 24p or 30p depends on the look you want for your project.

For use with the HV20's progressive mode, you will need to remove the pulldown from the footage in a different program. Then, you should use the chroma key on the resultant progressive footage.

(Note -- removing pulldown is NOT the same as deinterlacing. Do NOT deinterlace progressive footage.)
 
ultimately if you want the best quality for green screen work... i suggest you try adobe after effects
 
David Jimerson said:
Progressive is much better., you will need to remove the pulldown from the footage in a different program. Then, you should use the chroma key on the resultant progressive footage.

(Note -- removing pulldown is NOT the same as deinterlacing. Do NOT deinterlace progressive footage.)
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Thanks for the help.

Any advice on a good low cost program to do this or is neo HD the only way? Its a bit pricey at 600.00 and I would want that one since I can shoot and record 1920x1080 on the hf100.

Are there any other software options for pulldown removal?

And as for the look and feel is shooting at 30P at 1/30th shutter better to get the real progressive frames and still keep some of the motion blur that is more filmlike than video like? or no difference from 30P to 60i other than the interlaced image?
 
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Sithxace said:
ultimately if you want the best quality for green screen work... i suggest you try adobe after effects
Click to expand...


I am going to try vegas first since after effects is also a lot more money, worth it I know but maybe not for my current needs, unless I really find vegas inadequate.

I have a friend that is helping me set up the lighting and making it as easy as possible through gels using a 1/2 magenta on the rims and 1/4 magenta on the mains and balancing for that so the subject is correct and 1/2 magenta compared to the greenscreen lighting and the rim lights are 1/4 magenta compared to the mains making the definition easier we hope.
 
Chris Klidonas said:
Thanks for the help.

Any advice on a good low cost program to do this or is neo HD the only way? Its a bit pricey at 600.00 and I would want that one since I can shoot and record 1920x1080 on the hf100.

Are there any other software options for pulldown removal?

And as for the look and feel is shooting at 30P at 1/30th shutter better to get the real progressive frames and still keep some of the motion blur that is more filmlike than video like? or no difference from 30P to 60i other than the interlaced image?
Click to expand...

If you want a film-like look, shoot 24p at 1/48. You will not do better than that; it mimics both the frame rate and the shutter "speed" (180 degress) of a standard film camera.

(The equivalent shutter in 30p would be 1/60.)

Once you begin to learn the relationship between shutter speed and how your video looks, you can adjust to taste.
 
What kind of lights are you using to light the talent and screen with? If you're for certain going to use the Vegas keyer, then Magenta on your rimlight will help a bit, however you don't need it on your key / fill lights. Truth be told, Magenta is going bye bye as a way to correct for spill as most keyers can handle it and actually use the green information in addition to use when light wrapping as well. Your compositors will now say no to Magenta unless you're actually color correcting the light as opposed to reducing spill.

If you're lit well and you have distance with your subject and screen, you should key just fine.

David is right. Vegas' keyer is probably the best built-in NLE keyer out there. Still lacks good spill supression however there are workarounds though to that.

www.cinegobs.com is a freeware keyer that is pretty dang awesome for the price; which is $0.00 - I'd suggest testing it out as well.

cheno
 
Chris Klidonas said:
And as for the look and feel is shooting at 30P at 1/30th shutter better to get the real progressive frames and still keep some of the motion blur that is more filmlike than video like?
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To provide more detail . . .

No. In fact, the more fluid the motion is, the less film-like it will appear. A 1/30 shutter with 30p means the shutter is open all the time. This will produce a more smooth motion which will look more like video than film. If you want to look like film, you need more of a staccato motion. As I said above, the shutter speed you'd want if shooting 30p is 1/60, not 1/30.

And when you're keying, blur is the enemy. It will make it harder to key if the blur is on the edge between your subject and the greenscreen.

or no difference from 30P to 60i other than the interlaced image?
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In terms of the key, progressive vs. interlaced is ALL the difference.
 
And to keep adding - turn sharpening on your camera all the way down as well. Sharpening tends to introduce artifacting around the edges affecting the key too. I've got a setting on my XH-A1 just for shooting green screen - sharpness as low as it can go.
 
You know you could always try the Trial of AECS3 =)


Chris Klidonas said:
I am going to try vegas first since after effects is also a lot more money, worth it I know but maybe not for my current needs, unless I really find vegas inadequate.

I have a friend that is helping me set up the lighting and making it as easy as possible through gels using a 1/2 magenta on the rims and 1/4 magenta on the mains and balancing for that so the subject is correct and 1/2 magenta compared to the greenscreen lighting and the rim lights are 1/4 magenta compared to the mains making the definition easier we hope.
Click to expand...
 
That's only if the trials aren't the STD they were when CS3 was first released - took everything but a jackhammer to remove them properly. Hopefully safer now :)
 
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