I am shooting with the brevis flip. And it seems to increase the appearance of vignetting. I shoot with a nikon 28mm 2.8. I know its a crappy lense but i wasnt even getting too much vignetting with my non brevis flip. As soon as i got the flip and put on that lense i have to zoom in so past all the vignetting that it no longer is a wide angle shot. So now my dillema is finding a more affordable lense that allows me to maintain a wide angle shot. Can someone reccomend some good lenses?
Best affordable wide angle lense to avoid vignetting with adaptor?
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Batutta
Major Contributor
I bought a canon 35-105mm 3.5 zoom that is sharp as a tack and barely vignettes at all.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...s=algo=SI&its=I%2BIA&itu=IA%2BUCI&otn=4&ps=42
My theory is the very large 72mm front element prevents it from vignetting. It's a great outdoor lens, indoors you might want something with a lower f-stop. If you can find something with a large lens element.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...s=algo=SI&its=I%2BIA&itu=IA%2BUCI&otn=4&ps=42
My theory is the very large 72mm front element prevents it from vignetting. It's a great outdoor lens, indoors you might want something with a lower f-stop. If you can find something with a large lens element.
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
If you're using a camera with filter threads over 58mm, then CF1le will take care of this 100% for you.
What camera are you using?
What camera are you using?
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
The CF1 is specified for camera's like the HV20 which have a 43mm filter thread and very short optical path. CF1le is what is recommended for cameras like the HVX200 for near zero vignette on a 28mm f2.8 lens. During the ordering process the ecommerce client offers the choice of imaging elements for small or large cameras.
The interchangeable imaging elements are what makes the Brevis work equally well with small and large cameras...but you do need the right match to get field of view in excess of the 36mm SLR standard.
The interchangeable imaging elements are what makes the Brevis work equally well with small and large cameras...but you do need the right match to get field of view in excess of the 36mm SLR standard.
Charles Lowthian
Well-known member
Interesting Dennis. A few of us HV20 users thought that all adapters on 'smaller' cameras cause more vignetting. Be great to see some visual examples of the different imaging elements put in use to optimize this.
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
Charles, using the little HV20 on an adapter with a fixed design for an HVX200 is a recipe for vignetting. This is something that came up in testing very early in our history and this is why we have the CF1, 2, and 3 elements as well as the CF1Le, 2Le, and 3Le series. I'd direct you to our footage and demo sections as there is some stunning work there done with the HV20.
With CF1, 2 or 3 and the HV20 you can expect frame widths in excess of 36mm using lenses like an f2.8 28mm, and particularly slower zooms like the 28-200 f3.5 zoom we test with. We saw such a demand from HV20 users that we had a one piece 43-72 step up ring manufactured just for these types of cameras. About 15% of the Brevis's sold, go with CF1 and the 43-72 ring for small cams. Thie great thing about our system is that if you decide to switch cams (up or down) a 5 minute imaging element swap is all that would be required to get optimal performance. Buying a separate adapter for small or large cams makes no sense to me.
Our recommendations go like this:
1. Cameras with filter threads over 58mm should use CF1Le, and would add CF2Le, or CF3Le as options.
2. Cameras with filter threads at 58mm or under, should use CF1, and would add CF2, or CF3 as options.
Cheers,
Dennis.
With CF1, 2 or 3 and the HV20 you can expect frame widths in excess of 36mm using lenses like an f2.8 28mm, and particularly slower zooms like the 28-200 f3.5 zoom we test with. We saw such a demand from HV20 users that we had a one piece 43-72 step up ring manufactured just for these types of cameras. About 15% of the Brevis's sold, go with CF1 and the 43-72 ring for small cams. Thie great thing about our system is that if you decide to switch cams (up or down) a 5 minute imaging element swap is all that would be required to get optimal performance. Buying a separate adapter for small or large cams makes no sense to me.
Our recommendations go like this:
1. Cameras with filter threads over 58mm should use CF1Le, and would add CF2Le, or CF3Le as options.
2. Cameras with filter threads at 58mm or under, should use CF1, and would add CF2, or CF3 as options.
Cheers,
Dennis.
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i get no vignetting and no soft edges with the nikon 50mm 1.4. but i put on the 28mm and it all goes to hell. i know its because of the small rear aperature. What i cant figure out what wide angle lense is out there with a aperature like the 50mm. They seem to be extinct.
Beat Takeshi
Two-Hip Shakur
I used a 28mm and a 17mm on the wides on this montage I just shot with the flip Saturday using the CF1le.
http://ramjetfilms.com/aram/aram/BrevisFlip_aram2.mov
http://ramjetfilms.com/aram/aram/BrevisFlip_aram2.mov
Charles Lowthian
Well-known member
I've been using the mini35 with the HV20, so haven't experienced first hand of such a 'recipe' :grin:
But I do like your option and concept behind interchangeable imaging elements :thumbsup:
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
Wide angle lenses like the 17mm and 20mm he was using are notorious for soft edges used wide open. CF1Le will allow you to stretch FOV beyond 36mm with these lenses which may make it worse. The HVX is soft wide open (although I think he had it about f9 for some of that)...so you'd need at least f4 dialed on both to take down the effect. Bokeh improves a lot like this too.
The good news is that the Brevis will only cause about a 1 stop loss to the camera at f5.6, so there's very little penalty in doing this.
Three tips to improve wide angle sharpness edge to edge:
1. Dial in at least f2.8 to f5.6 on the wide angle. If you do a bit of lens research you'll find many still photog's recommending f8 to get the corners decent on most sub-24mm glass.
2. Dial in at least f4 to f8 on the camera
3. Frame about 10% in on the left and right of the imaging element, assuming you have done the XY adjust and it's perfectly centered. This gets you down to the 36mm SLR frame. If you've got a fairly new aspheric wide angle, try pushing the frame wider and see how it looks...you may get away with it.
Personally I don't mind stretching the FOV for some shots where it doesn't matter ... the panoramic thing works for me.
The good news is that the Brevis will only cause about a 1 stop loss to the camera at f5.6, so there's very little penalty in doing this.
Three tips to improve wide angle sharpness edge to edge:
1. Dial in at least f2.8 to f5.6 on the wide angle. If you do a bit of lens research you'll find many still photog's recommending f8 to get the corners decent on most sub-24mm glass.
2. Dial in at least f4 to f8 on the camera
3. Frame about 10% in on the left and right of the imaging element, assuming you have done the XY adjust and it's perfectly centered. This gets you down to the 36mm SLR frame. If you've got a fairly new aspheric wide angle, try pushing the frame wider and see how it looks...you may get away with it.
Personally I don't mind stretching the FOV for some shots where it doesn't matter ... the panoramic thing works for me.
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