Coollights Question #2: Seriously, the likely hood of other HMIs?

Cool Lights said:
The yoke on this unit is in fact a metal yoke with all metal parts including the clamping handle which is metal. What's wrong at the moment is that the surfaces between yoke and fixture are too smooth. Getting a yoke to stay in place is quite an art actually. Its not as simple as having a metal yoke and a clamping handle. You need some uneven surfaces in contact with each other in the area of clamping. The more uneven, the more you get a good lock. If the surfaces are all fairly smooth, you won't get the sticking action you're looking for.
Click to expand...

Richard, you are a connected guy. What you need is the same type of grooving that the tripod head manufacturers use on the tie down knobs on their pan bars. It is a round, serrated gear cut with teeth and when tightened down, it will not budge. I would easily pay an extra $50.00 just for that feature on your light.

$999.00 is still a steal obviously. As long as the light is reliable and reasonably quiet, I think you will sell a lot of them. A 575 HMI is a very versatile instrument and I would love to have a kit of two of them.

Best of luck,

Dan
 
Thanks Dan. You have to be versed in lots of areas to do what I'm doing. For sure, the groove method would work and that's well proven by the tripod manufacturers as well as grip heads too. There are simpler ways to accomplish the same thing though. When you're manufacturing stuff, you're always thinking of ways to keep costs down, particularly in my market.

If you take a look at the side of our studio flo fixture for instance:

CL455SideViewCm3.jpg


You only need a clamping handle on one side because this method is so rock solid. Can't slip. Basically consists of a metal disc or very shallow "cup" attached to the fixture with pins or rivets. Then a metal "dome" attached to the yoke. Add a clamping handle and you get compression on the dome within the area of the disc. As you tighten more, the dome which has some stamped out cuts in it expands to grab onto the cup. The rivets holding the disc to the fixture also act to make the surface "uneven" as I said before and help grab onto the cuts in the dome. The compression of the dome into the disc makes it lock completely. Much less expensive than a custom cast piece like on a tripod or a grip head.
 
Dunno how the Par is coming along...

1204933541.jpg


But my 150w's look dinky next to the 575w Fres. Num num num.
 
The three best HMI lights to own

1200 par
1200 par
1200 par

4th place is a tie between 1200 par and 575 par
 
Bucknfl said:
The three best HMI lights to own

1200 par
1200 par
1200 par

4th place is a tie between 1200 par and 575 par
Click to expand...

I think its safe to say he wants a par! Can't blame you. Pars are always more efficient than the equivalent sized fresnel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top