How do i overcome exposure issues like this...?

[Leo Versola]

What I typically use for situations like this is a soft-edged, graduated ND filter. If you can position the subject appropriately, you can knock down the blown out parts in the background a few stops without affecting the exposure on your subject. It can be a little bit tricky but given all your other options, it's probably the one that would yield the best results for a minimum of effort. The key word here being 'minimum' of effort; of course you can fix it in post or use on location nets/fill lighting to get potentially better results but it would come at the expense of cost and complexity.

My .02...

 

[wartez]

has anyone ever tried using a screw on nd, polarizer or other filter that threads right on to the 35mm lens as opposed to in a mattebox? sometimes it is easier for me to run and gun without a mattebox, so i wondering if anyone had tried these photo filters instead?

 

[Lenilenapi]

wartez.
That's perfectly fine and is far less expensive than a mattebox. The only reason for a mattebox is for grads or because you feel you
need to impress your clients . Just get yourself a bunch of step up adapter rings and stick with something like an 82mm filter so you can also put it on a naked HVX.
You will need a lens shade also and you won't get as much flare cutting ability with a round shade as you will with a mattebox.
It all depends on your shooting style and your money.


- lenny levy

 

[Moojangles]

i was thinking the same thing wartez, seems like a good alternative and i don't see what kind of problems would arise. Plus you can throw on a simple lens hood if you're really worried about flare.

 

[benandaim]

Only an opinion but I'd have made sure I was in CineD for the most dynamic range. That combined with a bounce card to bring up exposure on the girl.

You can't knock down the sky in that shot without also bringing down exposure on the girl, so you're only option, as I see it, is to bring up the exposure on the girl.

Although knowing that video's strength is in the toe I would have lowered overall exposure 1/2 to 1 stop while keeping master black at 0 to get as much shadow detail as possible.

I actually did shoot this with CineD.

All of this advice has been great! I can take a lot away from it. I definately need to get Barry's DVD just to know as much as i can about the HVX's settings before slapping the LEX on it.

I'll play around and cc some of the shots i got and post them.

Thanks again to everyone. :beer:

 

[Charles Lowthian]

i think you have to use polarizer filter this way it will make sky darker, while leaving subject lit... my 2cents

That's what i was thinking.
Don't ND's reduce light/colours equally?

Also, I don't think this was asked... what 35mm lens where you using?

 

[Kip_Kubin]

My understanding was that you set the zebras at 105% and stop down until the lines disappear then go a bit below that...i dunno!

Obviously i'm very new to shooting with a 35mm adapter so any advice would be much appreciated.


Here's some tips on exposure that have worked for me.

I use zebras at 90% and then dial in no zebra lines on any skin tone. I know guys that use 80%... try both and see what works best for you.

THis method will insure a proper exposure on your subject. However, this method cant work when your key light is behind your subject.

In you example your subject is backlight by the sun. You only have 3 options

1. Subject is more a siloette (sp) and sky is properly exposed.
2. Use a bounce card or reflector and hope it gives you enough light.
3. Punch a healthy HMI through a grip silk and film.

An ND filter wont help as you don't really need less light hitting your gg in the adapter and the suns angle renders pola useless.

Id suggest doing another test, same time of day and film the same subject with the sun at your back and shining into the subjects face.

You should get much better color and exposure results.

One last thing, all SLR lenses work better when stopped down a few stops... try an 5.6 on your camera and a 3.8-4.0 on your SLR lens. if/when you have enough light.

Happy shooting.