Better pick up or rent a kinoflo for that adaptor. Your actors will thank you for it.
FAQ like Info about 35mm lenses
- Thread starter TimurCivan
- Start date
235 Studios
Veteran
Glad to help any time! 
One of the biggest lessons I've learned in filmmaking is that the more control you have, the better results you get- the less control, the more likely you will not get the results you are after.
One of the biggest lessons I've learned in filmmaking is that the more control you have, the better results you get- the less control, the more likely you will not get the results you are after.
Hey 235 - regarding your el cheapo follow focus system. Do you feel that the indirect manipulation of the len's focus ring is not as much of a big deal as the markings and stops? I was always under the impression that because you are turning in a different axis and not directly touching the lens that people bought FFs.
If this is not correct, you saved me a bunch of money.
If this is not correct, you saved me a bunch of money.
235 Studios
Veteran
pcascio said:
FF are very helpful in that it allows the 1st AC to do his/her job better and more accurately. Can you use a flat head screw driver with a philips head? Sure you can, but a philips head will do a better job. Having a FF also allows you to do things like attach whips and cranks to the FF to allow for different manipulation of the focus. I've 1st AC'd on several projects where even though the camera was on sticks, the operator was constantly moving the camera around, having the FF allowed me greater control of the focus, and the operator could move freely - both of which would have been extremely difficult if I had to follow with my hands. Also, the longer the lens gets, the more noticable little bumps to the lens become. If you bump a 28mm lens while pulling focus, you probably will not see it on screen- this is not the case if you are using a 135mm lens. Need less to say, a FF is an important tool in your tool kit - especially if you are using a 35mm adapter.
However, with that said- I started with the poormans FF until I had the budget to purchase the FF. So you can get the job done using the tape method, you just may run in to some tough focus pulls that wouldn't be as tough if you had a FF. So if you go with the poorman's FF- I would recommend practicing pulling focus as the more comfortable you feel in operating it, the better you'll preform. (Although this is true with the FF as well.)
Luna_Park said:
Ohhhh where'd you find that?! i want one of thoes!
Bigdaddy B.
Member
I'm using a Canon FD f/2.8 28mm and an FD f/1.4 50mm. f/2.8 is a little slow for the 28mm, but can still produce nice images.
Keep in mind that "fast" and "slow" just refers to the lowest f/stop setting. So a lens with a minimum f/stop setting of f/2.8 is considered "slower" than a lens with a minimum f/stop setting of f/2. It doesn't mean much more that that.
If you do end up going with Canon FD, there is a little "trick" you will need to do with some FD lenses to engage the f/stop lock lever.
> The lever above is normally engaged when attached to a camera. I just cut a small piece from some from brass flat stock (hobby stores), cut it to length, slid the lever over, and inserted the brass piece. Easy fix and works fine. I had forgotten it was even there until you mentioned FD lenses. <
Good luck
HUH ? I have no idea what that means. Could you use a more visual description ? Thanks.
So, the Sharpness and Vignette issue with the M2: wasn't that solved with a Hardmount? I haven't seen M2 Footage with darkened corners in quite some time. Once the Hardmount idea spread, M2 footage got a lot better.
Also, in regards to the slightly softer M2 footage... which I agree on... would that be because of the HD achromat? If you switched the M2 achromat out for the SGpro's newest Achromat, would you get the same SGpro sharpness in an M2 package?
Also, in regards to the slightly softer M2 footage... which I agree on... would that be because of the HD achromat? If you switched the M2 achromat out for the SGpro's newest Achromat, would you get the same SGpro sharpness in an M2 package?
its their diffuser, its super thick is what it looks like. and i still DEFININTYL see a vingette. the thick diffuser causes additional ightloss, and a really lush bokeh, but it also causes a slightly soft image.
smurray333
New member
Where to get lenses? What to look for?
I wouldn't trust Ebay to much, cause one mans "great condition" is another mans unacceptable. You need to inspect the lens.
A few thoughts. This is true if you can find lenses to inspect... however, I've bought 27 lenses off eBay in the last 3 months and not a single one had a problem. Most were much better than I expected and all film tested sharp except for 2 and they were OK , just not as sharp wide open as I like. All were Canon FD mount. Most eBay people will take a lens back if it has a problem which they did not disclose in the listing. My suggestion: Only buy from people with good photos of the lens, who have at least 25 feedbacks and a 95% or better positive rating. Yes, you are taking a chance and yes, you may get burned, but if you read the listing carefully and trust your instincts you can get some great lenses and save 50% or more over Nikon prices. The issue here is cost not quality, I shot Nikon for 30 years and only switched to Canon last year because of the better digital cameras and wider zoom lenses (love my 16-35mm). I do not recommend zooms for the adapters because of the focus breathing issue. They can be as sharp as primes or even sharper.
One big thing -- lenses are like people, each one is unique. I have to laugh at the online lens reviews because those findings only apply to THAT lens. I always test my lenses, even new ones. When I switched to Canon EOS it took five, yes five 24-70mm zooms before I found one which was sharp enough at F2.8. And three different 16-35mm's. I think every lens you buy should be tested. I bought a $70.00 Canon FD camera (on eBay) and I shoot some slide film to check these lenses for sharpness, flair and any other issues. But then I'm a bit picky....
Note: These are the older FD lenses not the current EF / EOS lenses which do not even have an aperture ring and can only be used with a special computer mount to stop down on HD cameras. You can shoot them wide open with an EF mount on your adapter, but that will become a problem at some point when you need more of the image in focus.
Canon or Nikon?:
Ok both lens manufacturers are AWESOME. but canons have a switch that must be activated for the iris to be adjusted, other wise they jsut sit at open. Some FD lenses have a Apeture lock setting on the lens itself so you can set it where ever you like.
OK you guys, heres an update. After having used a Letus 35 on a shoot, with Nikon lenses. I have to say, i would now change my reccomendation of lens manufacturer, to nikon. The ability to stop down quickly and easily with the 35mm lens is VERY usefull, and too much of a pain with the Canon lenses. Stick with Nikon Lenses.
Canon or Nikon does not matter. The specific lenses in your hand matter. The real problem is that used Nikon lenses are very expensive, generally double Canon FD prices. And they are more rare to find used in good condition. Several of the Canon Fd lenses I bought look like they were never used. I found a great local camera repair guy who fixed the stop down issue AND removed the click stops for about $30.00 per lens. I now have 17 Canon FD lenses from 7.5 fisheye to 600mm F/4.5 which act like cine lenses, stop down smoothly and with the Red Rock Follow focus gear attached they almost seem like Ziess primes... well... almost. There is also a guy in Germany on the Red Rock forum who uses Q-tips cut to fit into the back of the lens mount to make it stop down, he even has a photo, but I like to have the click stops removed so I will continue to have the repair guy fix mine. I generally prefer the newer FD mount which is the one that is all black at the rear of the lens, not the really old ones with the silver ring in the back as they have better coatings and usually better design and higher quality glass. And buy the best, fastest lenses you can afford as it will be worth it in the long run.
Nikon or Canon these same lenses can be used on that Red One you are going to get soon....
My 2 cents on this subject. Good shooting.
I wouldn't trust Ebay to much, cause one mans "great condition" is another mans unacceptable. You need to inspect the lens.
A few thoughts. This is true if you can find lenses to inspect... however, I've bought 27 lenses off eBay in the last 3 months and not a single one had a problem. Most were much better than I expected and all film tested sharp except for 2 and they were OK , just not as sharp wide open as I like. All were Canon FD mount. Most eBay people will take a lens back if it has a problem which they did not disclose in the listing. My suggestion: Only buy from people with good photos of the lens, who have at least 25 feedbacks and a 95% or better positive rating. Yes, you are taking a chance and yes, you may get burned, but if you read the listing carefully and trust your instincts you can get some great lenses and save 50% or more over Nikon prices. The issue here is cost not quality, I shot Nikon for 30 years and only switched to Canon last year because of the better digital cameras and wider zoom lenses (love my 16-35mm). I do not recommend zooms for the adapters because of the focus breathing issue. They can be as sharp as primes or even sharper.
One big thing -- lenses are like people, each one is unique. I have to laugh at the online lens reviews because those findings only apply to THAT lens. I always test my lenses, even new ones. When I switched to Canon EOS it took five, yes five 24-70mm zooms before I found one which was sharp enough at F2.8. And three different 16-35mm's. I think every lens you buy should be tested. I bought a $70.00 Canon FD camera (on eBay) and I shoot some slide film to check these lenses for sharpness, flair and any other issues. But then I'm a bit picky....
Note: These are the older FD lenses not the current EF / EOS lenses which do not even have an aperture ring and can only be used with a special computer mount to stop down on HD cameras. You can shoot them wide open with an EF mount on your adapter, but that will become a problem at some point when you need more of the image in focus.
Canon or Nikon?:
Ok both lens manufacturers are AWESOME. but canons have a switch that must be activated for the iris to be adjusted, other wise they jsut sit at open. Some FD lenses have a Apeture lock setting on the lens itself so you can set it where ever you like.
OK you guys, heres an update. After having used a Letus 35 on a shoot, with Nikon lenses. I have to say, i would now change my reccomendation of lens manufacturer, to nikon. The ability to stop down quickly and easily with the 35mm lens is VERY usefull, and too much of a pain with the Canon lenses. Stick with Nikon Lenses.
Canon or Nikon does not matter. The specific lenses in your hand matter. The real problem is that used Nikon lenses are very expensive, generally double Canon FD prices. And they are more rare to find used in good condition. Several of the Canon Fd lenses I bought look like they were never used. I found a great local camera repair guy who fixed the stop down issue AND removed the click stops for about $30.00 per lens. I now have 17 Canon FD lenses from 7.5 fisheye to 600mm F/4.5 which act like cine lenses, stop down smoothly and with the Red Rock Follow focus gear attached they almost seem like Ziess primes... well... almost. There is also a guy in Germany on the Red Rock forum who uses Q-tips cut to fit into the back of the lens mount to make it stop down, he even has a photo, but I like to have the click stops removed so I will continue to have the repair guy fix mine. I generally prefer the newer FD mount which is the one that is all black at the rear of the lens, not the really old ones with the silver ring in the back as they have better coatings and usually better design and higher quality glass. And buy the best, fastest lenses you can afford as it will be worth it in the long run.
Nikon or Canon these same lenses can be used on that Red One you are going to get soon....
My 2 cents on this subject. Good shooting.
PaPa
Major Contributor
for nikon mounted adapters, which of the nikon series are useable? And what who exactly are nikkor? I own a 50mm 1.4 that says nikon nikkor.
The reason i am asking is because i would like to look around for lenses when my extreme comes in and i don't want to purchase something that wont mount.
Is there a difference between Nikon AI and Nikon AI-S ? Are there other compatible mounts?
The reason i am asking is because i would like to look around for lenses when my extreme comes in and i don't want to purchase something that wont mount.
Is there a difference between Nikon AI and Nikon AI-S ? Are there other compatible mounts?
tvimedia
Member
Nikon info for RRM M2
Nikon info for RRM M2
Same questions as PaPa...
I just ordered a RedRock Micro M2 with Nikon mount so I'm looking on eBay for lenses now, but have NO photography experience with lenses. I've come across many Nikon designations...what works (I have paid attention to basically staying away from digital SLR lenses) without modification or what mods are needed if any to 'better' lens to get? The faster the lens, the better---I understand that, but I'm just not informed enough about the AI, AI-S, non AI, etc...
Hopefully one of you gurus can enlighten us ignorant of this info :undecided
Thanks,
George
PS This may be off subject, but what Matte Box works well with this setup? Any additional rigging needed?
Nikon info for RRM M2
Same questions as PaPa...
I just ordered a RedRock Micro M2 with Nikon mount so I'm looking on eBay for lenses now, but have NO photography experience with lenses. I've come across many Nikon designations...what works (I have paid attention to basically staying away from digital SLR lenses) without modification or what mods are needed if any to 'better' lens to get? The faster the lens, the better---I understand that, but I'm just not informed enough about the AI, AI-S, non AI, etc...
Hopefully one of you gurus can enlighten us ignorant of this info :undecided
Thanks,
George
PS This may be off subject, but what Matte Box works well with this setup? Any additional rigging needed?
bvalente
DVXuser Sponsor
We did a short podcast on selecting 35mm lenses, particularly still lenses.
You can take a listen here: www.redrockmicro.com/podcasts.html - the 35mm lens podcast is the third one down.
AI, AIS, and non-AI designations are really only important as it relates to using them with your still 35mm camera - digital or film. AI and AI-S deal with lens-to-camera body communication.
An somewhat helpful thread on this is here: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A1o7
For M2 and 35mm adapters in general, AI, AI-S and non-AI don't make any difference. If you want to use them with your SLR camera, I'd definitely be looking for AI-S lenses, as they work great with still cameras and can perform double duty (I have a nikon D-200 and that's what I look for).
If you are only looking for lenses for the M2, non-AI is often times much less expensive
Brian
You can take a listen here: www.redrockmicro.com/podcasts.html - the 35mm lens podcast is the third one down.
AI, AIS, and non-AI designations are really only important as it relates to using them with your still 35mm camera - digital or film. AI and AI-S deal with lens-to-camera body communication.
An somewhat helpful thread on this is here: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A1o7
For M2 and 35mm adapters in general, AI, AI-S and non-AI don't make any difference. If you want to use them with your SLR camera, I'd definitely be looking for AI-S lenses, as they work great with still cameras and can perform double duty (I have a nikon D-200 and that's what I look for).
If you are only looking for lenses for the M2, non-AI is often times much less expensive
Brian
bvalente
DVXuser Sponsor
PaPa - the filter size makes no difference to the adapter. It is simple the diameter of the 35mm lens. Many older nikon lenses have a 52mm. It only makes a difference when you consider filters for the front of the lens
Brian
Brian have there been any recent updates to the redrock M2? i would like to know what you guys are working on.