Kino Flo Kamio

Stephen Eastwood

Stephen Eastwood

Member
Anyone use this and have a real life experience and also able to say what f stop at a given iso/distance/shutter speed? I know I usually shoot a camera that is about 320iso, and shoot at 1/48th to 1/60th and like to be at f3.4 so I am as wide open as possible outside of any zoom, so I would love to know how much light this puts out at say 6 to 10 feet. Thanks.
 
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Stephen Eastwood said:
Anyone use this and have a real life experience and also able to say what f stop at a given iso/distance/shutter speed? I know I usually shoot a camera that is about 320iso, and shoot at 1/48th to 1/60th and like to be at f3.4 so I am as wide open as possible outside of any zoom, so I would love to know how much light this puts out at say 6 to 10 feet. Thanks.
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OK so reading from their site it say you get 10footcandles at 5 feet, if thats true its like no light, I measured and get 2.8 at 600lux which is about 57.5 FC at 320 iso at 1/48th at distance. So 10 fc is 104 lux which is seemingly no light. Can that be? Awfully expensive for such little light if those numbers are accurate.
 
We have two Kino Foto-Flos and while they have a nice soft quality, they don't put out a lot of light. The lights need to be very close to the subject.
 
ECKlein said:
We have two Kino Foto-Flos and while they have a nice soft quality, they don't put out a lot of light. The lights need to be very close to the subject.
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This is an inherent flaw of linear fluorescent tubes. The surface area is quite large, therefore the light being produced isn't concentrated in a single area or direction. To be accurate they produce quite a bit of light (luminous flux) but only a small percentage reaches the intended subject (lux).

You may want to consider The Lumen, which has all the advantages of a linear fluorescent lighting system but signficantly greater punch because it uses CFL's. A 105 watt CFL (which is as bright as a 400 watt Tungsten bulb) functions like a slightly softened point-source light. The light is far more directional and it is easier to concentrate the light into a beam. Feel free to read this thread:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=112007
 
Prodigi Pictures said:
This is an inherent flaw of linear fluorescent tubes. The surface area is quite large, therefore the light being produced isn't concentrated in a single area or direction. To be accurate they produce quite a bit of light (luminous flux) but only a small percentage reaches the intended subject (lux).

You may want to consider The Lumen, which has all the advantages of a linear fluorescent lighting system but signficantly greater punch because it uses CFL's. A 105 watt CFL (which is as bright as a 400 watt Tungsten bulb) functions like a slightly softened point-source light. The light is far more directional and it is easier to concentrate the light into a beam. Feel free to read this thread:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=112007
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Are they making or going to make a ringlight? If not I might as well stick wit my hmi and kinoflo banks, or arris, or even lowels, the search is now for a ringlight that costs less than a 19inch litepanel ring and puts out at least twice that of a kamio. Perhaps a gekko kisslite or lenslite, only they are not sold in the us, and I have no pricing information for them in europe yet.
 
That's insane. Can't believe what some people pay for something like this. As Stephen pointed out, its a weak source...
 
What use is a more efficient light source if most of the light is wasted?
Might the high-powered (200W+) CFL route be a better way forward?
 
Well this thread was about ring lights/on camera lighting and the 200w 8U CFL is just too large to be used in that kind of application but for sure its more efficient for other more conventional uses like replacing a tungsten softbox. Many are doing just that.
 
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