High-Res Monitoring Solution: Low Cost Semi-DIY project

I know that you were referrin' to Zak's post... just saying maybe the HV20 won't work with this solution?

But, ther eya go! Zak's gonna post up on it.
 
ok, I got my Lilliput from California today, and even though Im still at work, I managed to pull it out of the box and check it out for mailing damages. I plan on finding some time tonight to play around with it, but a quick question I have at this moment. There is a thick hard-wire coming directly out of the monitor and I initially thought this was a s-video cable, but its not 4-pin its 7-pin? So i looked up 7-pin s-video and the pins are not configured the same as a conventional 7-pin s-video? I found further evidence this is a 7-pin male mini din cable. Now Im planning to hook directly to my DVXa camera so I have no need for HD stuff, but Im told I would prefere the s-video connection over the rca's. So my question is what am I missing to go to the DVX's 4-pin s-video? And can anyone link me to it?
 
Yeah, that's what I was tellin ya. You have to find the seven pin connector. I tried S-video with the Xenarc I had (sorry, been scrubbing through so much stuff I got it wrong).

Also, the S-Video adapter that I bought was incorrect.

HOWEVER-- the Xenarc's S-video vs. Composite wasn't THAT much sharper, although a little.

I'll have to hunt when I get a chance on the right seven pin to 4 pin converter. Monoprice is a good place to check.

www.monoprice.com
 
That's the one I got. It's the wrong 7-pin, though. I think it has to go the other way. Female to Male.

=(
 
Kohli, If I were to get couplers then that above cable would work? Say something as this 7-pin to 7-pin coupler, all I would need would be a 4-pin coupler and I would be all set? http://www.action-electronics.com/ppdin.htm#Panel

# ADMD7FF (Mini DIN 7pin Coupler fem/fem) $3.96
Couple two Mini DIN cables together.

IN WHITE... 4 PARAGRAPHS DOWN THE PAGE

these couplers would effectively change the gender of that cable... least thats what im thinking.
hopefully all these connectors wont add noise
 
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bwest said:
Kohli, If I were to get couplers then that above cable would work? Say something as this 7-pin to 7-pin coupler, all I would need would be a 4-pin coupler and I would be all set? http://www.action-electronics.com/ppdin.htm#Panel

# ADMD7FF (Mini DIN 7pin Coupler fem/fem) $3.96
Couple two Mini DIN cables together.

IN WHITE... 4 PARAGRAPHS DOWN THE PAGE

these couplers would effectively change the gender of that cable... least thats what im thinking.
hopefully all these connectors wont add noise
Click to expand...

Hey that might work, Bwest. I wouldn't worry about image degradation, either. It's not that much changing to be honest.

Let me know if it works!

Zak-- We're still lookin out for your report. Let us know when.


I'm waiting for the Dynamix screen to get here... taking a while but I got a filling Lilliput is the winner, even without the touchscreen idea I had.

Can't wait to move beyond the LCD selection phase and actually rig everything together to complete it!
 
Kholi ,Thanks for your hard work and findings. It will make my choice and others a lot eazy.Waiting on your final result...
 
Dynamix screen is just shipping today and to that I say "yeah right. Give me my money back.".

Lilliput 619GL it is, folks. Next stop: strappin' it all together.
 
my 9.7" Noga arm works great, holds that lilliput right off the back of the camera...upside-down [DIY flip]
 
Did you get a HotShoe Mount? It's perfect with the Israeli arm! I have a good three or four configurations going and I don't think I need an arm clamp anymore thanks to the hot-shoe mount!

It's EGGciting.
 
yes, I got the hot-shoe mount with the arm at the very get go... mine's looking good, but what have you got now... got me curious there Wonder-boy
 
I gotta take some pictures soon! Just waiting for the battery solution here and a Mattebox mount for the Formatt box! MicroRemote and a grip-and-shoulder solution.

The Monitor needs to get smushed together. I'm ready to start usin' it!!

Did you use your monitor yet w/composite?
 
No to the "using of monitor" I waiting for my couplers and cable to arrive, figure my 35mm adapter doesnt arrrive till end of October, so whats the rush. I do better with solving these little bugs when I go slowly. But, yea, take some more pictures as your steps increase so we can see what your doing? Whats a micro-remote [did I miss something]? Im going to design a sunscreen for the lilliput... I thinks... any idea's?
 
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Received my Lilliput 889GL-80NP today :)
Looks great, hooked it up to my pc, since the Mayflash might take a few days to arrive.
I removed the touch screen, to improve the image, took me less than 5 minutes with the help of this thread, the LCD screen inside was an Hitachi. It should be pretty easy to place back the touch screen if you plan to sell this thing or use it later on.
Will report back in a few days, when the Mayflash has arrived, and I will be testing it with a Canon HV20.
 
And received my Mayflash today...

With the HV20 in 1080i Component output it just gives a blue screen:furious3: Although the monitor does recognize the signal, because it gives no error messages and the monitor led is green or 'active'. In 576i the monitor says not supported.
Composite works pretty good, I think it's even possible to focus with it in HD, but component should be a lot better...

Now I'm trying to find out why it doesn't work... the only thing I could find is the following:

HV20 Component out specifications:
Y: 1 Vp-p
Pb/Pr: +/- 350 mVp-p

HVX200 Component out specifications:
Y: 1 Vp-p
Pb/Pr: 0.7 Vp-p

As far as I could find in my quick search most component devices have 0.7 Vp-p instead of 0.35 Vp-p
I guess this is sort of the signal strength? That might explain why there are problems with the HV20 component output.
Although the +/- before the 350 might indicate that it is 350 for Pb and Pr each, I'm not sure?

If I put only the Y in the Mayflash, the screen has a 'signal', if I plug in/out the Pb or Pr there's no change, but when I plug out the Y, the screen loses signal even with the Pb/Pr plugged in... not sure if this is just standard, because the Y is the 'main input', or because the Pb/Pr signal is too weak?

I will try to search for more info about how component works... but in the mean time, if anyone has suggestions, etc... :smile:

- Y carries luma (brightness) information.
- Pb carries the difference between blue and luma (B - Y).
- Pr carries the difference between red and luma (R - Y)
 
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