High-Res Monitoring Solution: Low Cost Semi-DIY project

LoL. Nice. You both have to let me know how this works out for you.

I am going to try the 629GL Touchscreen out and see which one works better for me in the end. I really hope the newer touchscreen isn't as soft as the 619 touchscreen.
 
Kholi said:
LoL. Nice. You both have to let me know how this works out for you.

I am going to try the 629GL Touchscreen out and see which one works better for me in the end. I really hope the newer touchscreen isn't as soft as the 619 touchscreen.
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I certainly will, probably have questions about connections when it comes, I'm east coast. I already have the Noga Israeli arm... hope to DIY a connector to it
 
I bought 2 of these radio controller helicopter batteries on eBay. They're from Hong Kong, so will take a while to get here, but cheeeeap!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160140086175&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006

They should last a few hours each, and boy they are cheap! Not as sexy as the Tekkeons, but you can only get those suckers in the US, and the postage in astronomical to the UK.

I am a little worried about the safety though, not of the batteries construction, as the Chinese don't look kindly upon killing each other randomly with batteries, I'm sure, but more the charging and short circuiting possibilities. I will need an appropriate charger. Does anyone know if I've mae a good purchace for a Xenarc monitor here?
 
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Lucas,

Those batteries look good and will work quite well with the Xenarc. Best guess is you'll get about 2.5hours of runtime per battery. Do be concerned though on the charger that you use and check to make sure that these batteries have independent voltage regulation on them so you don't draw them down too far or over charge them. They may have a pcb on them to perform regulation but I didn't see anything on the page you linked to. For a lot of RC applications they voltage regulate off the battery.

Bob
 
Hi Bob

Looks like it has no PCB - guess that's why they're cheap. Oops! Does this meen they're going to die fast? I can't find a PCB to go with them - not on eBay at least. I should get one though, no? Oh drats! I still need a charger too. Well, it is DIY, I guess.

All the best, and thanks for your help
Lucas
 
Nice work on battery hunting guys.

I really want to get smaller batteries. The Tekkeon's are officially too big for me.

Let me know what you people's pull up so I can copy!
 
hey guys -

just wanted to point out that the vDigi VGA transcoder doesn't work with my Lilliput 619GL(s). it creates a double image that looks like the interlaced fields are half an inch apart. lame.

on the hunt for a Mayflash or two. anyone got a source? i know sewelldirect.com should be stocking it in two weeks.
 
Thanks for postin', Zak. Was just about to let everyone know. I'll put it at the front of the thread.

ALSO! An update on the Xenarc: something I forgot to mention was that it would only do 720P and while it did it well... that meant switching to shoot 1080i was a no go. Making it a non-contender for me because I do shoot 1080i. BIG THING HERE!

Perhaps with more voltage it would do 1080i? But not sure if that makes a difference.
 
LOL Nah. It's more like adding more voltage to your PC's video card so that it'll run resolutions properly. That's just a theory.
 
hey kholi, when you are sending the 1080i feed to the lilliput, what resolution does it say you are getting in the Lilliput's monitor? with the vDigi in the mix i'm getting 720x400.
 
Hi all,

I am working on a battery guide but I was wondering what was the prioritization for everyone with regards to batteries, cost, weight, capacity, speed of recharge, etc. Please chime in with what you all are looking for.

For my own use my priorities were compatibility with all my accessories, ability to link together to power larger draw items, ability to charge much faster than discharge under use, and cost. With that I went with a NiMH solution for my filming. Not the lightest or longest lasting option but it was the best fit for my priorities. For about $145 I was able to make 6qty 2.3AH 12VDC battery packs and get a smart quick charger. All of which gives me 9 to 10 hours of operation of either my camera stabilizer rig or my shoulder mount using a monitor and on camera LED. Attached is a picture of one of the battery packs which weighs in at 15oz. and is 5.125" x 2.625" x 1.75"

1185420402.jpg
 
Bob that battery looks NICE!

So will these power a 6v device as well? That's the main concern with myself, being able to power the 6v device and 12v device separately.

This would probablly be the perfect solution, though, and I think I'll go ahead and get ready to change up.

Can you post the DIY/How-To for this at all?
 
kholi, what i've learned is that you must wire the two devices in parallel when using a single battery, with one to a voltage regulator before continuing to the 6v device.
 
Oh crazy. So you've actually used one battery for both devices? That could save a few pounds.

Essentially... one 14v Battery with a 6v regulator attached as well? And when you say wire the two devices together.... you actually opened up the monitor and wired them together or how did you do that?

Thanks Zak.

By the way, I ordered a Noga arm and Hot Shoe mount from Filmtools. See how it does soon here.

------------

And that Lilliput overscan thing, you just lower the CLOCK to 0 and it fixes the issue. From there you just adjust it left to right and up and down.
 
Kholi said:
Oh crazy. So you've actually used one battery for both devices? That could save a few pounds.

Essentially... one 14v Battery with a 6v regulator attached as well? And when you say wire the two devices together.... you actually opened up the monitor and wired them together or how did you do that?

Thanks Zak.
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no, i won't be opening it up. i'll be going like this...

11.1v battery >>> to tamiya connector (so i can easily connect it to a charger too) >>> wired in parallel to a 2.1mm dc plug >>> lilliput monitor

same 11.1v battery >>> to same tamiya connector as above >>> wired in parallel to a voltage regulator (converting 11.1v to 6v) >>> 2.1mm dc plug >>> VGA adapter.

Kholi said:
And that Lilliput overscan thing, you just lower the CLOCK to 0 and it fixes the issue. From there you just adjust it left to right and up and down.
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cool. i was playing around with that trying to get mine to work. would you say the image "stability" is rock solid on yours (with the Mayflash)? again, as i said the vDigi transcoder gave me a double image. same thing happened using the component out from a Canon HV20. although, when i used the component out from the Kona card in my Final Cut Pro bay to test it, i got a (mostly) singular image although there were horizontal black lines running thru it and a faint secondary image visible. anything like that with the Mayflash?
 
Kholi, I meant to ask you - that's a "filf" car outside Buck Pal right? Do you flit between Westminster, London and California, or is there a town called Westminster in California? I am studying film at Westminster University (the English one ;-) )
 
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