My solution to the DIY dolly PVC track...

sheeep

sheeep

Active member
From things I've seen online, connecting the tracks for pvc "skateboard" dolleys was either done with a semi-complicated internal system, duct tape, or just carrying around a huge piece of track.

After a half hour of looking around the plumbing section in home depot I found a fit.

The PVC had to be sanded down and shaped a bit inside to get the screws to fit perfectly, then the screws were jb-welded in.

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And some shots of the dolly:

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... still short a few wheels.


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Screws on. The first time you sorta have to force the tube to take it, but after that the threads are made.

I can screw two of them together and hold it at one end, and there is barely any more bend than when it was one piece.

When I get the extra wheels I'll make a demo video.
 
Well. Inside the pipe. JB weld isn't really "welding", it's just a two part heat resistant epoxy that bonds especially well to metal.

I had to sand out the sort of hexagonal shape inside the tube for them to fit, then I glued them in.
 
I posted this before... but the best solution is also the easiest solution. Use 1.5" pvc for the track... and 1.25" pvc for the connectors. The easiest way to cut pvc is with a power miter saw that's got a nice blade... and be careful. You can leave the 1.5" pvc at 10' long if you want, or cut it down to lengths that will fit in your truck bed (8') or hatchback (5').

For the 1.25" pvc connectors... first cut a strip of the tube out LONGWAYS... all the way down... about 1/2" wide... the easiest way to do this is with a jigsaw... and you may need to cut the jigsaw blade short enough that it doesn't hit the opposite, inside of the pipe as you cut it along the length.

Then... once you have this 1/2" (or .5") strip cut out of the 1.25" pvc... then you take that over to the miter saw and cut 12" (1 foot) lengths from it... you will get 10 connectors per each 10' pvc pipe... these will compress down to slip in the 1.5" pvc and then hold tight. I marked my connectors at the halfway point with a black sharpy... and I also used a hand grinder to take any sharp edges off the connectors in a matter of seconds.

It's cake... and it works great... almost perfect in fact... and the long junction at each pipe supports the insides of the tubes all the way around... for a full foot around the junctions... which makes the unions smooth rolling, often times with ZERO bump.
 
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