FAQ like Info about 35mm lenses

[TimurCivan]

Enjoy it man. ITs fun having to learn about optics.

 

[malcolm man]

Thanks, I needed this. I'm about to buy an HVX200 and would like to snag an adapter and a lens to go with it. Now I'm one step closer.

 

[TimurCivan]

youre welcome.

 

[bruiserbox]

thanks

thanks

This is a great post. Wish you were local. I'd love to connect and see what you thought of the brevis vs. your sgpro. I don't think anyone is so much better than another but they are each strange in their own way and you have to be cool with the guys/companies selling them, too, which can be a bit different.

I'm happy with my brevis so far. I dug your flicks on your site. If you were local I'd recommend you for gigs. Either way, thanks for your generous post here. This was awesome.

 

[ElektronBlue]

yes but you need a Digital SLR to change the apeture.

Hey TC ! Thanks for all the great info!

Would you be able to elaborate more on the Digital SLR lens subject?... I know one user asked several questions of...

just found this thread, great info! the digital slr issue was mentioned briefly but i was hoping someone could explain this to me, I have a nikon d80 with one of the digital VR zooms, nice lens, has AF/MF etc right on it. If i were to get a brevis lets say, could I get any nikon lenses that would work with both the adapter and the d80 (so i wouldnt have to buy 2 sets), for example a 50mm or a prime 200 or 300mm. from what i understand digital lenses shouldnt be used with a 35mm adapter because theyre made for a digital chip and also they dont have manual apertures? so the only option would be to try find nondigital AF or even MF lenses that would work with the d80 (but its a digital camera, so it only takes dslr lenses or only dslr lenses have all functions enabled?) sorry im confused...

For instance I have several Nikon lenses for my D70... but I've heard things about DSLR lens use w/ 35mm adaptor and AF lenses etc.

What things would you be looking when buying a Nikon 50mm lens? 1.2/4/8? etc?

Just today purchased a SGPRO.r3 - Wayne has a really nice setup - couldn't help it! Just too many positive things about his service and product.

Thanks in advanced! :dankk2:

Jason
(Jason Hebard on sgpro forums)

 

[235 Studios]

What things would you be looking when buying a Nikon 50mm lens? 1.2/4/8? etc?

I did a little write up on Nikon lenses in general, which you can find at my blog: http://ryanewalters.235studios.com/ryanewalters/Indi-HD Blog/Indi-HD Blog.html hopefully that is helpful when it comes to Nikon lenses.

In short you do not want to get the digital lenses because of a couple of reasons- 1. They are designed for a smaller imager- the digital imager is smaller then the 35mm frame, so the lense puts out a smaller image then the 35mm lense does. And 2. A lot of the lenses have electronic controls which means that you will not be able to adjust the aperature and other settings when you have it attached to your 35mm adapter.

 

[ElektronBlue]

I did a little write up on Nikon lenses in general, which you can find at my blog: http://ryanewalters.235studios.com/ryanewalters/Indi-HD%20Blog/Indi-HD%20Blog.html hopefully that is helpful when it comes to Nikon lenses.

In short you do not want to get the digital lenses because of a couple of reasons- 1. They are designed for a smaller imager- the digital imager is smaller then the 35mm frame, so the lense puts out a smaller image then the 35mm lense does. And 2. A lot of the lenses have electronic controls which means that you will not be able to adjust the aperature and other settings when you have it attached to your 35mm adapter.

Thank you for the reply! I later thought that about the digital lenses - just hopeful! Thank you for the blog - I'll take a look at it shortly.

 

[TimurCivan]

digital lenses are more difficult to work with. though their quality is usually good. But mind you this only apllies to full frame 1:1 sensors.

 

[ElektronBlue]

digital lenses are more difficult to work with. though their quality is usually good. But mind you this only apllies to full frame 1:1 sensors.

Thanks for the reply!

For my next purchase of a 50mm Nikon lens, I am looking at the 1.8s. I've read on the sgpro forums that this is a little smaller ap, but it allows a greater dof.

Now based on your article, would you recommend this 1.8 vs a 1.4 or event 1.2 to allow a little more breathing room - so when your subject movies a few inches things go out of focus?

Also what is your take on the necessity of the follow focus unit from Wayne for a newbie such as myself? How much benefit and ease would I receive from it? Or would I need it all at this point of time?


Thanks TC!

Jason

 

[235 Studios]

would you recommend this 1.8 vs a 1.4 or event 1.2 to allow a little more breathing room - so when your subject movies a few inches things go out of focus?

I would recommend that you get the fastest lenses that you can afford. Doing so will allow you to stop the lens down. There are two benifits of stoping your lens down. The first is that most lenses are their sharpest 1 - 2 stops down from fully open, and the second is that the actors will have more room to act without going out of focus. This is especially important if you are working with new actors, or inexperienced actors. When your lense is completely open you only have a few inches where the actor needs to hit their mark. If they are not used to hitting it exactly each time, then this can be frustrating, as it may have been a good take, but you can't use is as it was out of focus do to them not hitting their mark.

Also what is your take on the necessity of the follow focus unit from Wayne for a newbie such as myself? How much benefit and ease would I receive from it? Or would I need it all at this point of time?

Do you absolutely need it? Depends on your perspective. I know people who are quite comfortable pulling focus with their hands and the lense - they produce good results, so they have not bought a FF yet. I would HIGHLY recommend that you get one. A good FF is a huge time saver, as you know that you will hit your marks everytime when you use it, this may or may not be the case if you are pulling by hand. (Especially if you are racking on a lense that is fully open) Also, there is the comfortability that the FF gives in operation. If you have the camera in an awkward position it may not be possible to use your hand on the lens.

 

[ElektronBlue]

Ryan! Thank you for the great advice. Honestly, it seems endless with all the information and knowledge one can obtain regarding filming etc!

There is lighting equipment - lenses - sound - video - equipment - pre and post production. And each has it's own sub categories!

So when you speak of the fastest lens, a lens with the largest aperture or lowest f#, an example would be a 50 mm @ f1.2.

So @ 1.2 - it will give me a larger DOF? Where my subject can go in and out of their mark and still be in focus?

Where as the 1.8 it is a smaller DOF?

Can you explain to me when you state 'stopping down the lens"? I see on these manual lenses they have a ring where you can adjust the aperture. Is this where you can f-stop the lens? If you have a 1.2 - meaning you can go down to a 1.4 or 1.8. And you stated that most lenses have a sweet spot a couple f-stops down. Therefore, buying one with a fastest/largest aperture, allows me to get to that sweet spot w/o loosing light?

Re: the FF.

Thank you for the info! When you say a huge time saver - how does it work? Do you turn an external knob and that turns your lens? Basically gears? So you can position your hand with a turn knob vs. around the end of the lens? Like a micro focus knob?

If I were pulling focus myself - does this equal to pulling by hand? Focusing myself?

Also by saying 'huge time saver, as you now that you will hit your marks every time when you use it' - how so?

Thanks a bunch Ryan - passing forward your experience/knowledge is very much appreciated!

Jason

 

[pcascio]

Please compare spinning vs. vibrating models

Please compare spinning vs. vibrating models

I currently have an SG35 Pro but am considering building a Nikon D based vibrating adapter that will be a bit more mobile. Is this style inherently better or worse than the spinning disk type?

 

[TimurCivan]

Pcascio- I personally believe the spinning disc type is better.

JAson- a F1.2 is a very wide apeture, and will give you a VERY narrow DOF where the subject will fall inand out of focus VERY easily.

Stopping downt he lens means making the apeture smaller. This increases the DOF and lowers the amount of light reaching the GG. However the lenses performance will increase. the Sharpness will go up, and focusing will be significantly easier.

 

[ElektronBlue]

Pcascio- I personally believe the spinning disc type is better.

JAson- a F1.2 is a very wide apeture, and will give you a VERY narrow DOF where the subject will fall inand out of focus VERY easily.

Stopping downt he lens means making the apeture smaller. This increases the DOF and lowers the amount of light reaching the GG. However the lenses performance will increase. the Sharpness will go up, and focusing will be significantly easier.

TC -

That is what I thought, the lower the f# the narrower the DOF. However w/ a f1.2 you can stop it down to 1.4 or 1.8 right? And with those couple stops down it will hit the lens' so-called 'sweet spot' ?...

What would you suggest for my first 50mm Nikon lens of the apertures available.. 1.2 / 1.4 / 1.8.. ?

Thanks!

Jason

 

[TimurCivan]

wide as you can get, that just means the apeture is sweet spotting at a brighter f stop.

 

[ElektronBlue]

wide as you can get, that just means the apeture is sweet spotting at a brighter f stop.

So the 1.2 - then I can stop it down to a workable DOF as I need?

 

[235 Studios]

Here is a work around for not having a FF-
A.K.A the poor mans FF:
Go down to your local expendables store (Usually the local place that rents or sells lighting equipment - some where like http://www.dtcgrip.com/ ) buy a roll of 1/4" tape (A.K.A Spike Tape). Now on your lense wrap two pieces around the lens - one that covers the distance markings, and one on the opposite side. So now, using a pen you can mark the lens with your focus points. You'll create one line on the side of the lens that does not move, and the other marking on the side that does move. It will be helpful to have different colored pens to use for different focus points. When the tape gets to marked up to use, you will need to retape the lens.
Total cost of this FF: $7.50

Re: the FF.

Thank you for the info! When you say a huge time saver - how does it work? Do you turn an external knob and that turns your lens? Basically gears? So you can position your hand with a turn knob vs. around the end of the lens? Like a micro focus knob?

A FF is a gear system- there is a gear around the lens, a gear on the FF, and then the knob that your hand turns. Around the knob is a disk that can be marked with a dry erase pen or grease pencil. Having a good FF is a time saver because you can feel confident that you are hitting your marks every time you pull focus. So you do not have to keep doing take after take because you were not quite sure if you were in focus or not. This is especially true if you are doing a large rack focus- if you use hard stops on the FF, you can operate it by hand, without even hanving to look at the disk. If you are skilled, and practice enough with the poormans FF, you can get away with it. I like having the assurance of the hard stops, as once they are set, you don't have to worry that you over or under shot the pull. It is also a time saver because you do not have to constantly tape and retape the lens.

Additionally it moves the position that your hand it in to a more erganomical position, making it easier one your arm, and on your line of site as your arm does not block your view. And depending on your camera placement, it might be very uncomfortable to pull from the end of the lens, having a FF would help minimize this for you. If you have an AC pulling for you, then they will thank you as you just made operating the focus much easier- allowing them to do their job better.

 

[235 Studios]

If you are looking for a shallower DOF, then the longer you go on your lens the more pronounced the DOF will be. a 135mm lens has more SDOF to it then a 28mm lens for example.

So the 1.2 - then I can stop it down to a workable DOF as I need?

Basically you have a couple of factors that you are trying to juggle to get the best use out of your 35mm adapter: DOF, Sharpness, & Exposure. All of these are related, and play against each other- getting a fast lens will help you with all of these issues, and get you better results.

DOF: The faster the lens the shallower DOF you can get. A 1.2 will yield better results then a 5.6 for example, as at 5.6 your DOF is extended.

Sharpness: Most lenses are their sharpest starting at about 1 - 2 stops down from fully open. So your image may be a little soft if you are shooting wide open. Stoping down gets you to the place where the lens it working at its best. So if you have a 1.2 lense and you stop down to 2.8 the lens will be more sharp then if you were shooting with a 2.8 lens.

Exposure: To expose properly you need to have enough light coming in the lens. You will need roughly twice as much light if you are using a 2.8 lens then if you were using a 1.4 lens.

So if you get a faster lens, you will be able to get a SDOF, while keeping the lens sharp by stopping down, and you will need less light to expose your image properly. Which is the winning combination that you are after.

 

[TimurCivan]

thank you ryan.

 

[ElektronBlue]

If you are looking for a shallower DOF, then the longer you go on your lens the more pronounced the DOF will be. a 135mm lens has more SDOF to it then a 28mm lens for example.



Basically you have a couple of factors that you are trying to juggle to get the best use out of your 35mm adapter: DOF, Sharpness, & Exposure. All of these are related, and play against each other- getting a fast lens will help you with all of these issues, and get you better results.

DOF: The faster the lens the shallower DOF you can get. A 1.2 will yield better results then a 5.6 for example, as at 5.6 your DOF is extended.

Sharpness: Most lenses are their sharpest starting at about 1 - 2 stops down from fully open. So your image may be a little soft if you are shooting wide open. Stoping down gets you to the place where the lens it working at its best. So if you have a 1.2 lense and you stop down to 2.8 the lens will be more sharp then if you were shooting with a 2.8 lens.

Exposure: To expose properly you need to have enough light coming in the lens. You will need roughly twice as much light if you are using a 2.8 lens then if you were using a 1.4 lens.

So if you get a faster lens, you will be able to get a SDOF, while keeping the lens sharp by stopping down, and you will need less light to expose your image properly. Which is the winning combination that you are after.

Thank You! I appreciate the break down - I was somewhat getting confused w/ my own knowledge and what was before me. This definitely straighten it out!

As for the FF - thanks for the options - I'll keep all in mind with my further purchases!

Again, Thanks for all the help Ryan!

Jason