FAQ like Info about 35mm lenses

snodart said:
I'm using a DIY vibrating adapter (Snod35). I have yet to officially test the light loss (there is some of course). Both Cache and The Seeing were shot with it. The average total amount of light used for Cache (excluding exterior/day shots) was around 750 - 1000W. For The Seeing, the average was more like 1250 - 1500W (it had more wide shots).

I have yet to try out the Letus, so I don't know if there would be that much of a difference in light loss between the Snod35 and the Letus.
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When you're saying 1250 watts -- you are seeing as total light power, right? Not just keylight. Is that hard or soft light?

Sorry for the interrogation...
Jgastelb
 
No sweat. I'm talking about the average total Watts. So a given shot for Cache might have had one, 500W w/ barn doors and a 250W w/ barn doors. Or one, 500W w/ softbox; one, 500W w/ barn doors; and one, 250W kicker. That sort of thing.
 
Gotcha! I really want to see what I can light at night while using the adapter. Thanks for all of the info.
Jgastelb
 
anybody got some good online stores to buy lenses? (nikon, canon)

i'm from holland and the retail prices here are always a lot higher than when i order something from the US even with shipping.
 
Has anyone noticed the ground glass particles being more prominent when shooting with a high shutter speed of 1/125 and more? Is really getting on my nerves. I think I'll have to shoot all high stuff without the letus.
Jgastelb
 
TimurCivan said:
the gg movement probably isnt fast enough. its aliasing against the grain.
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Is there something wrong with it then? Something I can do to help that?
 
thats the way the motor is designed. if the Letus offers an adjustable GG speed, turn it way up.

If you wanna aviod this, get an SGpro or an M2 they have a Vairable GGspeed. The Sgpro at fullspeed doesnt show grain even at 1/1000. At 1/2000 however it does show grain.
 
TimurCivan said:
thats the way the motor is designed. if the Letus offers an adjustable GG speed, turn it way up.

If you wanna aviod this, get an SGpro or an M2 they have a Vairable GGspeed. The Sgpro at fullspeed doesnt show grain even at 1/1000. At 1/2000 however it does show grain.
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No such luck. Oh, well. Thanks!
Jgastelb
 
TimurCivan said:
As i stated above, you may be tempted to just get the fastest lens possible, and just run from there. But when you run in to the problem of "everytime my actor breathes he goes out of focus" you will realise, hmmm maybe is should close my apeture down a little to deepen the DOF. However, now you have another problem. The camera cant see anything.
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I understand all of this but I might be misinterpreting the point you're making. Would it actually be smarter to not go for the fastest lens or does the fastest lens in any case encompass all the possibilities that the slower lenses have too?
 
the faster lens can always go down. Get the fastest lens possible. but functionally while shooting, you often will find that you need to close down a bit to get the lens at its sharpest and to make the DOF deep enough to be safe.
 
I was talking with a lens guy at Sammy's camera in LA. He was telling me that older wides (Canon and Nikon) had a spherical element whereas now most wides have an aspherical element. The switch to the aspherical design, so he told me, was to prevent vignetting/hot spots that the older wides caused. Just curious if any of you know anything about this or how to tell if a lens is spherical or aspherical.

I am getting some slight vignetting with a Canon 28mm f/2.8. The vignetting seems to remain the same no matter what size the aperture is (whereas from my various test with adapters... I would expect the vignetting to get worse as the aperture was smaller). I was hoping that trying a few different PCX lenses would correct the problem, but no luck. I wonder if the the spherical shape of the lens is the problem. I suppose I should rent a nice wide and see if I still get the vignetting.
 
Also, are there really no 'backfocus' capable zoom lenses to put on the adapter (other than perhap extremely expensive ones)?
 
I have no experience at all yet with Canon FD/Nikon AI lenses (or any sort of full manual photography lenses) so I have a few questions:

A zoom lens has 3 rings that I can control, focus, aperture and zoom, right?

When I zoom, the aperture is automatically affected? Is this 'absolute'? With that I mean, if I zoom in and my aperture becomes smaller because of it, can I still open it up a bit more without zooming out? (even though I can't open it as much as I could when I was zoomed out)


If I do small zooms but my aperture isn't all the way open, would this circumvent the 'zooming into a blurry mess' problem because my zoom remains within my focal range?
 
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