What lenses do you reccomend for M2?

This is what Brian Valente from redrockmicro recomended to me with an M2:

" My recommendation is this:


The HD Indie Bundle for nikon lenses
the shim kit

You'll also need an 82-72 step-down ring (you can get from a pro
camera shop, adorama.com, bhphoto.com, or even ebay) that is under $10

I'd pick up some used manual focus nikon lenses:

50mm f1.4
85mm f1.8
135mm f2.8
and possibly 35mm f2 "

although the "used" part is probably cuz I asked what would also be cheap.
 
mk23 said:
This is what Brian Valente from redrockmicro recomended to me with an M2:

" My recommendation is this:


The HD Indie Bundle for nikon lenses
the shim kit
Click to expand...
I currently use Sony VX2100 but soon will work with HVX. So I need 58-72 for VX and 82-72 for HVX, right?
What about auto focus and zoom with M2? Is it possible?
So you think Nikon would be better than Canon EOS or FD?
 
Hey backward,

no autofocus. You gotta focus manually which needs some training. Follow focus helps a lot (I use a Chrosziel).
If you ever consider shooting a low-light/low-key movie you'd probably don't want to use lenses slower than 2.0.
Anything beyond 100mm of focal length will need particlar focussing skills - check, if you really need that kind of long lens. I never use more than 85mm (a Nikon 85/1.8).
You could have a gear for focus AND iris - but that seems hardly controllable. And since focus is what you bought the M2 for in the first place (shallow depth of field), you'd definitely have gears for focus on your M2.
Watch out! The HVX comes with a 1/4" connector not in line of the optical axis. If you want to use it with an M2, you NEED to adjust vertical AND horizontal alignment.
Also make sure to double check back focus (focus on the ground glass of the M2). The ground glass does NOT have a single focus point, but a certain "height". Make sure to check focus with a simple resolution chart (could be self drawn). Many people complain about "soft" images - only because they don't consider these two points.
I'm shooting a feature right now with the M2/HVX combo, and except highlights (worse dynamic range) this combo can compete with medium speed 35mm. Every night when we watch dailies, we are simply blown away. :-)
 
Where's the best place to buy MF Nikons? I like avoiding B&H when possible. I go to play there and buy elsewhere. A lot of places I've checked online seem to sell just the Autofocus ones. Where esle should I look? I'm looking to buy new.
 
Keh.com is a great place for used lenses. They have tons of manual focus. The ratings system is very helpful. Check them out for sure. They have been my alternative to god-awful ebay.
 
One question to anyone with a M2: Is it possible to use an HVX with M2 handheld, independent of any cable or powersource? I want to go for a "Traffic" or Lars Von Trier look but with the greatness of different optics... Does it work?
 
Sam, depth of field is based off of many factors.

1) Lens length. The more telephoto the shallower the dof. This is why on zoom lenses you need more light when at maximum focal length. Ex: HVX stock lens on camera is a f/1.6 when wide. Zoom your HVX baby all the way in and you are now at f/2.8,

2) The more you open up your lens the more shallow dof. Fast lenses have the potential to be more shallow then others, but that is only because they open up more. Slow lenses will have varying dof depending on if you use them open or stopped down.

3) Distance of your subject. Even with a very shallow dof, if you move your subject very far away, the dof increases slightly. The closer the subject is to the camera the smaller your range for focusing is.

So your worst fear should be a dark room, close subject, and a wide open 1.2 glass on a 105mm lens. (I dont think you can even buy a 105mm f/1.2 but it would be crazy if you could) So to answer your short question, a faster lens has potential to be used for very shallow dof.
You might have known this but i hope it helps someone.

SPZ, Yes. Many people have bought 9v batteries to go mobile. There are threads if you look around. Ill give you a sneak peak at those threads by telling you that this rechargable portable dvd battery was tested and said to work nicely. The M2 takes a 9v input. Here is the link: http://www.global-batteries.com/product_info.php/cPath/10/products_id/1334

The style you are going for sounds awesome, be sure to post some footage when you have completed the film.


-Best regards

p.s. Faster lenses also are better and they know it. They have large egos, and some will say thier vain attitudes cause the extreme shallowness. :)
- my bad joke of the day
 
Does the faster fstop value on these lenses justify the price?

Nikon Normal 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor AIS Manual Focus Lens ($ 119.95)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...79&is=GREY&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

Nikon Normal 50mm f/1.4 AIS Manual Focus Lens$ ( 299.95)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...77&is=GREY&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

Nikon Normal 50mm f/1.2 AIS Manual Focus Lens ($ 499.95)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...76&is=GREY&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

It's just that if I;m going to invest in all this stuff...I wanna get the most bang for my buck. If spending an extra $200 buck is worth it I reall don't mind at this point.
 
I was very tempted to get the 50mm f/1.2 and other low lenses like a 85mm f/1.4.

It is true that every bit helps, and if you have access or the money to get these fast lenses, by all means do!

But I only gave myself a $900 budget for USED lenses. I didn't have the bones to buy new. Plus the 50mm 1.2 is only a 30% increase of light from the 1.4.

Here is my advice for buying:

Try not to go over f2. F2 lenses are bordering not very good for low-light interiors on video. You will have to light more, which isnt bad, but keeping your lowlight options open is worth the sub f/2 price. I personally made a pledge to not go over 1.8 on my primes.

What I don't understand are people who buy lenses like 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, and 85 f/2.8. They seem to buy somewhat lower f/stops but very assorted (prob because they just bargain hunted)

They seem to not realize a huge factor: If they plan on switching prime focal lengths mid-scene they must light for the highest-lowest fstop. (between thier f/2, f/1.4, and f/2.8 they must light at the 2.8 level.)

Otherwise when a dark scene is lit for the 50mm f/1.4 and the DP says to switchout the 50mm and put in the 85mm. Someone is gonna freak cuz they lit for the 50mm and now you need four times the amount of light!!! (1.4-2.8= 2 stop spread). Now the crew rushes to get the same lighting ratio but 4 times the brightness.

With a collection like this, you must light over thier 2.8 lens at all times to avoid problems. This means you will never be using your 1.4 setting on the 50, unless your whole scene is shot with just the 50mm. So now you either never use the 50mm at the f/1.4 and wasted money on the faster lens or you use the faster 50mm f/1.4 potential and lose the freedom to switch to other focal lengths (limiting creative possibilities).

This is why I got my lenses all around the same f-stop. For example I own a 35mm f/1.4, a 50mm f/1.4 and a 85 f/1.8. (couldnt shell out the clams for the 85 f/1.4 :( )

But now I know that on all my sets, I'll be lighting for over the f/1.8 (at the minimum) stop on my lenses or I can go down to 1.4 if I do not use the 85mm. But I would most likely light abundently and stop down my lenses.

=Reminder: I am saying light FOR my 1.8 not light at 1.8. The difference is although it is lit for a 1.8 lens the set light meter reading will be rather higher due to the camera stock lens added with the M2 slight light loss. =

For a wide open 1.8 lens, HVX, and M2, I would venture to guess lighting would be a light meter reading of around a 2.8-4 split. Just a guess. I didnt do the math, but it gets my point across.

So if you buy fast lenses make them all fast otherwise you will have switching problems or you will never utilize what you paid the extra bucks for.

I know you didnt ask all this but I felt like writing it, I am really into lenses and learning. Anyone who wants to rip my theories apart, please do. I enjoy learning here as much as the next guy. Whew! what a rant!
 
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No it's actually very useful stuff...so thanks! :D

I'm also considering picking up one of these...

Nikon Telephoto 135mm f/2.8 Series E AIS Manual Focus Lens ($ 169.95)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...142&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

I think for now I'm thining of getting a good medium lens and a good long lens. For the wide stuff I was thinking about just shooting with the stock lens with no adapter. Should I go for something like a 24mm over that as well?
 
The 135mm is not a bad choice at all. When you get above 85mm it gets hard to find prime manual lenses faster then f/2.8 or f/2. I would say go for it!

You might want to find one lens between your 50 and 135. I bought a 85mm as do many people. It seems to be a popular choice. Plus, as mentioned above, you can find sub f/2 85mm. (f/1.4 was my personal favorite but I had to budget myself and went with the f/1.8 instead)

I will prob also buy a 135mm f/2.8 eventually. Right now I have a rather inexpensive 80-200mm manual zoom f/4. (Mainly for exteriors only)

As far as wide angle, I have a 35mm f/1.4. I would recommend this or even go to a 28mm. I have seen some 28mm footage, and it is not bad at all. Past 28mm is your personal taste. I don't plan on buying a lens less then 28mm. Using a stock lens might be a good bet. Although some insist a mist filter on a stock lens will help your footage match up in post. I have never tried, seen, or heard more on that subject.

-best regards
 
All this is very useful. My transition from thinking "video" to "film" is long overdue. It's quite the change from a stock barrel with a zoom on it. Thanks.
 
=Prodigy= said:
SPZ, Yes. Many people have bought 9v batteries to go mobile. There are threads if you look around. Ill give you a sneak peak at those threads by telling you that this rechargable portable dvd battery was tested and said to work nicely. The M2 takes a 9v input. Here is the link: http://www.global-batteries.com/product_info.php/cPath/10/products_id/1334

The style you are going for sounds awesome, be sure to post some footage when you have completed the film.


-Best regards

p.s. Faster lenses also are better and they know it. They have large egos, and some will say thier vain attitudes cause the extreme shallowness. :)
- my bad joke of the day
Click to expand...

Thanks, Prodigy! I'll definetly work hard to get the best possible look. Once I've got something completed, I'll most certainly post it here!

Now its time to order that M2... :)
 
Hi Guys ! Any posts or threads on setting up the M2 or SG PRO and the HVX. I am thinking of getting either the M2 or SGPRO but am concerned about getting it right. I have no experience with adaptors and was wondering how difficult they are to set up correctly.
Just wondering if anybody has any comments on the century .6 and 1.7x lenses how they fare in comparison with the M2 or SGPRO when working with DOF. I like the fact that their is no set up wth the Century converters. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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