Indie Budget: $2500 lighting and sound?

Finnian:

Where did you purchase the Filmgear lights from? Does Cinemill only sell direct or do they have retailers? Could tell us what they sell, for instance, the 300 you bought for? Do they include barndoors, scrims and scrim bags or are those extra?

Thanks,

Dan
 
Cinemills sells them direct for now. Malcolm was the guy I dealt with there. I think they're talking with other retailers, I heard Samy's camera mentioned. They come with barndoors and a neat built-in safety cable for the doors as well. Scrims and bag are separate but don't cost more than any others. I actually had a last minute job book for Monday, so I'll get to use them sooner than I thought. I'll report back when I'm done.
 
John, as you probably know, lighting is what makes the picture. For me it's one of the most important aspects of my craft. I've put together for you what I think would be an excellent quality starter light kit that will fall within your cost range. Be advised...this is not for major motion picture, but I've used the following setup for some great lighting scenarios and have got a lot of mileage out of it:
All of the prices that follow come from lightsonretail.com. I am not affiliated with them and chose them only because they were the first site I found in my search with prices so I could stay within your parameters. I have never purchased from them.
1 Arri 150 fresnel w/ barndoor - $188.50
2 Arri 300 fresnels w/barndoor - $331.00 ea
1 Lowel Tota w/screen - $133.95
1 Chimera XS (max 500w)(for tota) - $191.25
1 Tota speed ring (for Chimera) - $132.60
1 40 degree Chimera grid - $114.75
2 FEV 200w lamps @ $8.00ea - $16.00
2 FCL 500w lamps @ $8.50ea - $17.00
4 FKW 300w lamps @ $17.50ea - $70.00
4 Avenger midi stands @ $70.55ea - $282.20
1 Porta brace LP-2 light case - $289.95 (price from Andora)
3 300w dimmers @ $18ea - $52.00 (from Home Depot)
Total = $2150.20
This is a pretty basic kit but can be expanded on easily. For another $350 you could add a set of 18X24 Roadrags (nets and flags for light control) another stand a grip head and a cstand arm. It soon becomes addictive when you discover all the great things you can do with light. But I think for the money you have to play with, this is a great place to start. BTW, remember to always weight down your light stands w/sandbags or something similar once you have them set. I've seen some disasters from people not doing that.
Good luck.
 
Hey everyone,

Just got back from a trip where I didn't have too much access to the internet aside from quick e-mail checks. Wow...there are alot of posts! Just checking in so that everyone knows I didn't start a post and ditch it, wasting all of your time.

I'm going to take some time to read through everything and compare/balance all the options so far, and then go from there.

Thanks for everyone's advice so far! (I'll check back again when I've got everything together since I'll likely have at least a couple of questions.) :)
 
Trying to price some of these suggestions. I have typically bought from BHPhotoVideo, but if somebody knows of an online retailer which has better prices for this gear (the Lowells, Jokers, Arris, and the Audio Technica 4073a), I'm all ears (aside from eBay, since I WILL jump on a great deal if I see one, but in the event there isn't after awhile, I might have to buy elsewhere.)
 
getken said:
1 Arri 150 fresnel w/ barndoor - $188.50

Hiya getken:

I just went to thei lightsonretail.com website and they show this light for $242.00, not $188.50. Are you sure it ws the Arri 150 fresnel you were looking at over there?


Arrri 150 Fresnel 530100
Code: ARRI-150-530100
MSRP: $310.00
OUR LOW PRICE: $242.00

If someone did have this light for that price, I would pickup two or three, that's a killer price.

Dan
Click to expand...
 
Hey everyone,

I've decided I'm going to purchase audio equipment first. I have a few quick questions:

1) The Audio Technica AT-4073a shotgun mic which Evinsky recommended near the beginning of this thread seems to be a really popular choice. I was just curious how this would compare to another apparently popular mic, the Sennheiser ME66? What are the main differences between them (and differences that would influence somebody choosing one over the other)?

Also, how does this setup look?

- K-tek ME-110CCR (for Sennheiser option) or the KE110 without internal cable (Audio Technica option)
- ZFSOM windscreen
- KE US shock mount
- 2-25' cables
- stereo wire harness for the shotgun (audio technica)

Thoughts on this arrangement? Thanks everyone.
 
the ME66 is a great mic, but far more expensive than the 4073a -- bang for buck, the AT is better, for quality but with a substatialy larger price go with the sennheiser

check out the audio thread's

Well, without HMI's the photography will be pretty much amateur, which may be okay, I don't know.
Click to expand...

that kinda disapoints me.... it reminds me of "without prismacolor pencils, you might as well not draw"
 
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TMFilms said:
I am confused here, I just bought the at4073a after deciding based on a bit of reading that made me decide it was better than the ME66? Am I looking at this right here:

ME-66 $479.99 with a free $25 gift card
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=373969&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

at4073a $549.95
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=68317&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation
Click to expand...



I always wondered why I hear the ME66 is expensive.
I always found it to be the sm57 of boom mikes.
(not the best, but good for the money, and won't let you down, may never be the winner, but never the loser, and has good output)

I have never seen that mic over $500, that's cheap for what you get.

If you want to go low ball, get the oktava (forget the model number)
it is only $200-$250 street.
That thing is so sensitive, I have my gains almost off. Good thing it comes with a 10db reducer. The only thing I don't like is it's lack of wind rejection, but stick a foam ball on the end, and forget about it. (The wind comes in through the vents in the side.)

For under $300, I'd use the oktava

For $300-$500, the me-66 is good, mine lasted me years. I think the oktava is better, but still testing it.


For $550, i'd still get the cheaper ones above, but the at4073a, is better than the me66, with a good operator.

Anything over $550, and you have many choices.
If you are going to spend more, get the Sennheiser MKH50, or Sanken CS1.

I'd like to add that if you have a terrible operator, then you want a mic with less rejection.
The "better" boom mics, are only better with a good operator.
If you are shooting indie films with borrowed or free crew consisting of your inexperienced friends, you will be better served with an me66.

If you have a true sound guy who will point the mic directly at the target, and can do so with laser precesion, the better mics can be realized for what they are, otherwise the Me66 IS better because your sloppy crew is not doing their job. With a good mic, you will not get the dialogue, if the boom guy is not working the mic. I have seen, heard and had been called in to be the boom guy on many of my friends short films, because their sound guy was either too far away,or pointing the mic who knows where.
 
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Okay, so there are many variables to consider.

Would you get a laser accurate mic like the Sanken cs1?

or get (1) AT 4073a and an ME66?

I would get the latter, personally.

I don't always have a pro sound guy, and if I needed one, he would have his own stuff (or he wouldn't be a real pro sound guy). So for my concentration on the video first, I need two different mics depending on who is HELPING ME.

If I give a friend $150 to boom someone, and I know they will be somewhat sloppy, I'll give them the me66.

If I have someone who I know will point the mic where it needs to be, I'll give them the AT.

Most of the ratings you read about, are based on off axis rejection.
If you have a sloppy boom operator, his being 10 degrees off, could kill you with a Sanken Cs1. An ME66, will save the day (as long as the rest of the set is quiet).

My point is, the situation and YOUR crew should be considered above these online tests, and rankings. Reviews are pretty accurate if you are buying a mic as a sound guy, but will be very dissapointing if you are hiring someone else who doesn't have his own mics, as your boom guy.
 
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