need help with lighting

LloydC

New member
ok, here is the scenario. I'm shooting a scene in a toilet stall that is pretty small and tight (approx 3 feet wide) Anyways, the wall that divides the toilet stalls are aluminum, and are somewhat reflective. How am I supposed to light this without haveing any noticeable reflections from the light on the walls?
 
Re: need help with lighting

I would have 2 fresnels w/ barn doors. One behind the person (place it in the next stall, and have it high enough to reach over the wall and angle down) as a kicker. I would then set on up in front of him, to the left or right, and off axis from the camera. Use the barn doors to control spill onto the sides. Also use blackwrap or flags if more control is needed.
 
Re: need help with lighting

Depends on the look you're going for, of course... for soft light a china lantern from above and some fill from below would give a fairly nice, even light with probably not much reflection.

For stark harsh light, a snooted (or black-wrap-snoot) hard light from above should give you a stark, harsh look with little chance for reflection.

For the most flexibility, try to find a place that will let you remove one of the walls. Condemned buildings are good for that sort of thing.
 
Re: need help with lighting

You can also use a dulling spray for the hotspots. No matter what lighting options you go with it wouldn't hurt to have that around.
 
Re: need help with lighting

How about setting up lighting outside the stall in question and bouncing it off the ceiling and or any light colored walls?
 
Re: need help with lighting

I have an idea ;D.

1. If you are going for a soft washed out effect maybe rigging a four foot kinoflo overhead with daylight balanced bulbs to go for the stark bathroom look (I'm assuming it's inside of some sort of office/ airport bathroom). If you got the Diva version of the Kinoflos you can even change the color temperature and add back that green spike that flourescent lights have. That's all you'd need, because it's soft enough to wrap around not requiring and fill light. But this will make it a washed out sorta, officey look I guess, sorta flat maybe depressing.

2. If you wanted it more theatrical, I like the snoot idea. But being that you were thinking about the chinaball / chinalatern (is that term pc?) you were going for low budget. What you could do is get porcelain sockets and rig a 500watt photoflood no.1 bulb, rated at 5600K and put it on a scoop. Cover the front of the scoop with blackwrap/cinefoil, blocking out the bulb/light completely. Then, cut a fine circle where you want light to spill out. I find that after creating the opening you want, you can take a fine blade and cut slight patterns so the blackwrap can also act as a cookie and maye diffuse those slits so it's softer and it'll keep the walls of your stall from being underlit or boring. And you could just leave it at that if you want heavy dark shadows in the eye socket because these photoflood bulbs are relatively hard light. Best part it'd cost 12 dollars a light to rig or something like that.

Hope this helps. Cheers.
 
Re: need help with lighting

Oh I forgot to mention the good part about those kinoflos mention in solution 1 is that the bulb casing is light and flexible with barn doors and eggcrate to cut light even more. It's so light I've used gaffer tape (non sticky duct tape) to tape it to the ceiling and it doesn't get hot! It's soft and exposes beautifully on the dvx. They come in 2foot or 4foot beds. But I think they are pricey for what they are: bulbs.
 
Re: need help with lighting

Kino bulbs are relatively cheap in the world of color balanced lamps, especially considering their length of operation. What you're paying for is the flicker free electronic ballast, not the bulb.

While the kinos don't get hot, there's enough heat in them to melt the adhesive in gaff tape when applied directly to the bulb. If you tape them up for long periods of time, the adhesive will stick quite stubbornly to the plastic casing around the bulb...leaving some nasty crusty residue when you remove the tape.

If you're going to tape kino bulbs directly, wrap a bit of paper around the bulb where the tape is to be applied and you won't ever get those persistant crustys.
 
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