List of great EOS lenses

PM? What's that about? Keeping secrets? :laugh:

Actually, I know it's a bit off topic for this thread, but I would really like to know the answer to that question as well. Care to share those links with another?

Thanks!

Eric

It was just a link to Phillip Blooms blog entry comparing the 5D to the 7D and he says pretty much the same thing. LINK
 
Mitch from Abel Cine just published a great chart which I am posting here in this thread.
(Also placing it in post 29 to which it is relevant)


Original article here
http://blog.abelcine.com/2010/08/18/35mm-digital-sensor-comparison-chart/

35mm-Digital-Sensors-Chart_corrected0819_1125.jpg
 
What kind of explanation are you looking for? The pattern is the S35 standard or whatever different formats are compared with. Everything is too clear to me.

In the digital realm, this is related to the sensor size. Before (LOL) with the film, related to the surface to be exposed 'cause we act directly over the materials. A possible (not exactly, considering the analogic tape, for example, where digital began IMO) distinction between analogic and digital.
 
Great chart. I am still perplexed with my Panasonic went with such a smaller sensor, to me, it's pretty significant for wide angle uses of the camera. 30% smaller than S35 is a lot.

I think this shows there is a LOT of variance in sizes though. Thanks for posting the link.
 
Great chart. I am still perplexed with my Panasonic went with such a smaller sensor, to me, it's pretty significant for wide angle uses of the camera. 30% smaller than S35 is a lot.

I think this shows there is a LOT of variance in sizes though. Thanks for posting the link.
It depends on the lens you use. A 14mm will equal a 28mm in full frame or a 17/18mm in S35, like a 11mm (Tokina zoom, for example) a 22mm (FF) or 14mm in S35. Not bad.

The worst is the 2 stops or almost 2 stops loss for full frame, but only half stop for S35. So even there, not so bad.
 
The worst is the 2 stops or almost 2 stops loss for full frame, but only half stop for S35. So even there, not so bad.

Are you referring to DOF? There shouldn't be any difference in light transmission based on the size of the sensor, that only comes into play when using a teleconverter.
 
50mm EF 1.4 USM vs the 1.8???

50mm EF 1.4 USM vs the 1.8???

I just got a T2i and I was gonna buy my first lens. I see on this list that both the 50mm f1.4 and f1.8 are a DVXuser favorite.

But I noticed on Ebay that the f1.8 is almost $300 cheaper. Is the 50mm EF f1.8 USM lens still a good buy? OR is a "big" difference and I should buy the 50mm EF f1.4 USM lens?

If anyone could help, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks
 
Search Philip Bloom's site and Stu's at prolost.com - they both have had great blogs on lens choices for the T2i/60d/7D
 
What a great thread, thank you so much for posting this! I'm a T2i owner looking to get the most out of my camera and have bought a few vintage lenses so far...the super takumar 50mm 1.4, helios 44-2 58mm 2.0, and a vivitar 28-90 series one that is an FD mount and is only useful for macro and close-ups. I know I'm definitely buying the Tokina 11-16mm, everyone loves it and I need a super wide angle for sure. Now I'm a little confused whether or not I should replace the kit lens with the tamron 17-50mm 2.8 or go for the sigma 30 1.4 instead? I'll be using my t2i with a shoulder rig as an A camera for weddings (I'm looking to purchase an HMC-150 for the wide shot that I can leave record on a tripod/and for extreme sports which will be its main purpose). I haven't been too impressed with the kit lens so far, it's definitely good for beginners, but I'm past that stage and looking for professional results. Is the Tamron a good option for me, or is it not worth shelling out that much money for it? I will also need lenses to cover the higher ranges that I am missing, which I am also on the fence between vintage and something electrically controlled.

I'm a magic lantern user, and I love the focus peaking which makes me lean towards buying more new age lenses. My budget is flexible but I would prefer getting the most bang for my buck, no need for L glass yet...I'm only just establishing myself in the industry. Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated!
 
I've finished altering the list in the original post to reflect current prices at B&H and to make note of which lenses are discontinued.

Recently I picked up the ef-s 60mm f2.8 macro which I bought it for a job,
it's a wonderful lens to use, an example shot is here link

and the EF 85mm f1.8 prime for another shoot
example from that shoot is here link
 
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... and be wary of the term 1.6 crop factor !!

. . .

Now super 35 film is almost identical in size to the aps-c sensor in the 7d and the t2i. So if you put the t2i kit lens on a t2i and shoot at 24mm, 35mm and 50mm
you will be getting approx the same field of view that a hollywood movie would be shooting as if they were using those focal lengths on super 35 film.

So don't compare to full frame. Its pointless. No hollywood film is shot full frame.
You will only confuse yourself.

Use 24mm, 35mm and 50mm focal lengths on a (7d/550d/t2i) aps-c sensor and familiarize yourself with the field of view.
Then you will then be spot on.

Hi there,

I'm a little confused right now . . .
Does what is said above also apply to a 600d when using the 18-55mm kit lens? I know they have the same sensor size but the 600d can do this:

Meanwhile, what this camera DOES offer than no other does is the ability to crop/zoom the sensor while filming. In other words, use the resolution from a smaller area of the sensor, essentially creating an even deeper zoom on the same lens. Since you are using pixels that are closer together on the sensor (instead of spreading out and skipping lines of the 18mpix resolution to make your ~2mpix 1080p image), this can reduce the moire and aliasing problems common with this sensor.
(quote from this thread: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?249562-Difference-between-APS-C-Camera-models-(7D-vs-T2i-vs-60D-vs-T3i sorry don't know how to quote from another thread :undecided)

So does this feature have any effect on the field of view when using the 600d with the 18-55mm?

Furthermore, could you also use a lens as variable prime for the longer focal length ranges (something that covers 85+ and is cheap but still decent u know:happy:)? If yes, please recommend one (Canon). If not, please recommend a (CHEEAAP!!!) 85 and 135mm (also Canon)
As you have probably figured out by now I'm an absolute beginner, so I'd be really glad if you could help me out.

Thank you very much
 
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So does this feature have any effect on the field of view when using the 600d with the 18-55mm?

yes ... a good way to see the change in field of view is to set the lens to its 18mm focal length. Shoot some footage without the feature (using full aps-c sensor)
then without changing the lens shoot some footage with the feature.

When you compare the two you will see a huge difference in field of view. The feature enabled will appear as if it were a longer focal length.
 
Furthermore, could you also use a lens as variable prime for the longer focal length ranges (something that covers 85+ and is cheap but still decent u know:happy:)? If yes, please recommend one (Canon). If not, please recommend a (CHEEAAP!!!) 85 and 135mm (also Canon)
As you have probably figured out by now I'm an absolute beginner, so I'd be really glad if you could help me out.

Thank you very much

Yes. At first I used the Nikon Ais 75-150mm f3.5 zoom as a variable prime. I later switched to the Nikon Ais 50-135mm f3.5 because it is a little better and it covered focal lengths which I use more. Namely for when I make framing adjustments when shooting head and shoulders portrait shots for short films.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?203401-50-135-f3.5-AIS-I-love-this
Both of these lenses created footage that matched well with eos lenses as well as other Nikon lenses.
BTW - I'm entering a phase of not shooting as much and I'm considering selling my 50-135 so PM me if u want more info.
 
Thank you very much for the help so far,
Just one more thing so I get this sensor/focal lenght/field of view confusion right: If you compared the 550d to a full frame DSLR like the Canon 5D using the same lens on both and the same settings you would definately see a difference in the field of view, since the 5D has the bigger sensor, right? If I'm not completely mistaken the 5D would have a wider angle in this case?

As for the kind offer, I don't know whether you ship worldwide (I live in Austria) but anyway I don't ever buy from overseas, thank you nevertheless.
And thanks for the help of course,
 
Thank you very much for the help so far,
Just one more thing so I get this sensor/focal lenght/field of view confusion right: If you compared the 550d to a full frame DSLR like the Canon 5D using the same lens on both and the same settings you would definately see a difference in the field of view, since the 5D has the bigger sensor, right? If I'm not completely mistaken the 5D would have a wider angle in this case?

That's correct. Say you used a 50mm lens. The 5D field of view measured across the diagonal would be about 47 degrees; the field of view on the 550 would be about 30 degrees (i.e narrower). The proportions would be the same at any focal length (so at 100mm, both fields of view would be halved)
 
Old thread / new post (obviously). Just confirming that there are indeed quality control issues w/ the Tokina 11-16 2.8 (116 AT-X Pro DX). There's so much online love for this lens that stories of bad lens copies get overshadowed. Some buyers have endured 2-3 return roundtrips trying to get a 'good one'. I just spent considerable time testing / trying to force myself to love a used Tokina 116. Thankfully, I was fortunate enough to stumble on a nice seller and got refunded. And they were not quick to defend this particular lens. Images in his online portfolio actually confirmed the lack of center sharpness I was seeing. Must've not bothered him but I'm not gonna pay that much for a bad lens.

So - if you're a big fan of the Tokina 116 and happy, consider yourself lucky. You got a good one. Not trying to be Debbie Downer, I just want people to know. Tokina quality control apparently ain't 'all that'. If you do buy one, unbox and begin testing immediately. Really push the lens in both a controlled setting with focus charts and walking around outdoors as you might handle it real-world.
 
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