Canon R6—Anyone buying one for B-Cam/Gimbal?

cpreston said:
That would be problems. Supposedly they improved the overheating, but I have no idea.

Right now, I’m using a C500 MKII on a gimbal, but it has never been as smooth as my EOS R was. Maybe I should just weight for the 5C or 50C or whatever.
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the readout speed is clocked at 30.6ms by cined.com: https://www.cined.com/canon-eos-r6-lab-test-rolling-shutter-dynamic-range-and-latitude/ and 20.3ms in APS-C crop

definitely on the slow side of what's available today but might be livable

i think the overheating has been improved, but I came to the conclusion when I was considering the camera that it has no safe "lower-quality" 4K mode like the R5 has with its pixel-binned or line-skipped 4K that would never overheat in 24p.

maybe the R6 overheating is totally fine now. maybe it's fine with an external recorder. I'm not up to date on the state of play. but aside from readout and overheating, I think it's a pretty sweet little camera. I found it odd and annoying that it would only record in 8-bit if you're not recording in Log. I'm not sure that's changed

why isn't the c500mk2 as smooth on gimbal? it doesn't balance as well?
 
I am using my C500MKII on a single handed gimbal. It's a great set-up, but the weight makes it harder to get the fine movements I was able to pull off with the much smaller EOS R that I was using before. I think what I really want is the C50 or whatever it is that Canon is working on to replace the xc-10/15.
 
cpreston said:
I am using my C500MKII on a single handed gimbal. It's a great set-up, but the weight makes it harder to get the fine movements I was able to pull off with the much smaller EOS R that I was using before. I think what I really want is the C50 or whatever it is that Canon is working on to replace the xc-10/15.
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copy that. i love flying my a7siii on single-handed gimbals. the readout speed is awesome, the codecs match the fx6/fx9. the IBIS and catalyst browse stabilization are handy. 120fps is more useful than I expected. not much help to a canon shooter, though. but I think it's only a matter of time before you get what you want, whether it's a C50 or an R3 or an R5mk2.

People seem to be pleased with the R5 if you can avoid the heat limits. The readout speed is about 15ms in high-quality mode and 10ms in lower-qualty mode: https://www.cined.com/canon-eos-r5-lab-test-to-film-in-raw-or-not/

And you can roll without overheating in 4K24p lower quality mode, which looks pretty good. And apparently you can roll 4k60p without overheating if you record externally, though then you're adding weight back to the rig... https://www.diyphotography.net/the-...heating-after-8-months-use-in-the-real-world/

Tangentially - I recently got a Weebill-S as a B gimbal to my Ronin-S. I debated adding a monitor and a focus/zoom motor to that rig, but I love having it bare bones because I can use "POV" mode to liberally roll the camera to odd angles that would destroy my wrist if I tried to do it with my built ronin-s rig, even with a mirrorless camera.
 
I've been using the R6 as a b-cam to the C70. Overall It's great, but there are a few quirks. The internal 4K files are hard to edit (no all-I like the R5). But if you shoot on an external recorder to get ProRes, you can't also record in the camera internally, like you can with he R5. Not the end of the world, but just makes you irritated.
 
drummondb said:
I've been using the R6 as a b-cam to the C70. Overall It's great, but there are a few quirks. The internal 4K files are hard to edit (no all-I like the R5). But if you shoot on an external recorder to get ProRes, you can't also record in the camera internally, like you can with he R5. Not the end of the world, but just makes you irritated.
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are you sure you can't record on both? What happens if you push the record button on both, the camera and the NinjaV?
 
Ive had the R6 for some weeks now. Frankly the ability to capture a good file.. which is af accuracy and sharpness/colour rendering are amazing. I mean better than the FS7 and good enough not to bother with the C200.

Ive had no overheating problems.

The menu and button assignment were designed by writing features on scraps of paper and removing them from a dustbin in random order. And then throwing them at the camera were they could arrive with no logic or sense.

For example MF is not a type of focus. Or rather it is, but all the AF modes are on one page while AF/MF is on another page. Well on another page sometimes depending if you are in video or stills mode.

That menu doesnt logically play with the focus/mode switch on the lens. Yep you can use the lens ring to scroll though AF modes but Im a lot less sure how to use this ring to manual focus.

Actually in the menu you can change the focus rings' MF sensitivy from 'worse than the worst sony fly by wire' to 'almost usable' - hell uoyu can even swap it to the nikon way!

This is the 24-105 F7.3 kit lens that should revolt but actually generates super pictures over a range that might cost you $10g in a cine camera.

Play for a month and keep your eye peeled on tiny icons of screen info and you can learn to control it. Controlling it uses none of the thoughts or moves that one learned when learning about cameras.

But dont forget the AF and file are excellent. very excellent.

Mine is powered for an age by a dummy battery lead and BPU battery from my FS7 - I have a smallrig cage that cost $4.50 and a lil rode mic that cost $5

If you are a cyclist or hiker this is one of the first cameras that allows top level filming from a handbag package. That is quite radical.
 
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cookinghusband said:
I might suggest to look for a used 1DX2 instead. Unless you only own RF lens

Also the BMPC6K is excellent when use with EF lens
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The R6 comes together as a package mixing imperfect vision with AF to mean you get OK shots.

1dx2 has a mirror not an evf and is seriously compromised for viewing.

BMC has no AF and No EVF meaning it is compromised for viewing and getting sharpness.

Of course it depends on your use case.
 
Morgan, thanks for your feedback. What is your impression of the white balance routine? I know they still have the stupid 'take a picture of the white area...' approach. Do you just dial in the Kelvin and be done with it?
 
morgan_moore said:
Ive had the R6 for some weeks now. Frankly the ability to capture a good file.. which is af accuracy and sharpness/colour rendering are amazing. I mean better than the FS7 and good enough not to bother with the C200.

Ive had no overheating problems.
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Do you roll 4K60p continuously for extended periods of time without heating problems?
 
Its never occured to me to white balance - Im sure the process is horrific. I have the camera set at 5500k and guess I might once in a decade put it on 3200k

Im unlikeley to set the thing on anything but temperature

There are pretty good rgb hitogram that would allow you to see any serious colour swing if you know how to read them. Im not sure that RBG need enabling - but it is there on my cam now on the third info push.

Info..
1)clean
2) horizon meter
3) everything

---

Aha
Ive not done long interviews at 50p. Weve done a few 3min interviews at 25p no probalbem.

This is not an endorsement for using it for long form.
 
If you use RF lenses with a control ring, you can set WB to it and twist it to quickly change Kelvin. It's quite useful.
 
It's worth mentioning there's also a Canon adapter with a ring so you can use EF lenses as well.
 
Have not taken to RF lenses at all. I've rented a few for the R6, and I bought the new RF nifty-fifty. Inexplicably, there does not seem to be a way to instantaneously pause the DPAF and tweak focus manually. You literally have to dig into a menu to switch it to MF. I don't think you can map that function to a button either.

The R6, for me, has evolved into a camera I keep over my shoulder at al times with a fast, light prime. I can instantly start taking beautiful, floaty, handheld b-roll. Never thought I'd be able to walk around with an EF 50mm 1.4 handheld, and get not just usable, but very nice footage.

R6 is a dream for vintage lenses too. If I don't need AF, the nFD 50mm 1.4 is super tiny, and captures beautiful images. When I don't mind a touch extra weight, the FD 55mm 1.2 SSC is sheer poetry.

The DPAF seems very bi-polar to me. Works perfectly in some situations (talking head interview). But in more complicated shots with more people, I have trouble taming to reliably do what I want it to. Some people keep praising the AF, so not sure what's going on.
 
When I was using the EOS R, I really preferred the ef lenses. The RF lenses were nice in that they had incremental control of the iris, but the ef to rf adapters were really useful. For outside shots, I would use the ND adapter. For inside shots, I would use the control ring adapter with the control ring set to ISO so that I could ride the ISO. It would take a lot for me to want to lose the ability to have the variable ND in order to use RF lenses.
 
I also always ride the ISO, but just FYI we are losing dynamic range when we do that, and may or may not be introducing artifacts (Canon's own caution).

Canon recommends sticking with ISO 400 when shooting C-Log on the DSLRs/mirrorless' (not sure about any updated memo on C-Log3).

Not very practical and I doubt we'd notice a tremendous hit in DR (especially indoors), but just FYI.
 
The base iso for clog-3 is 800 ISO on the R6. I would love to know whether the DR is dependent on the ISO or if it stays constant like the cinema cameras. I would also love to know if it matches the cinema cameras at all. Right now, Canon is doing a fairly decent job of making sure their cinema cameras have similar color profiles, but I have no idea if their photo cameras are matched at all.
 
Using a lower or higher than native ISO has always affected DR in most cameras (even a little), but by how much is very questionable.

Canon mentions in their manual using lower than 400 for C-Log and 800 for C-Log3 affects DR ("narrower"), but doesn't say anything about using higher.

For the 5D Mark IV, they mention using higher than 400 can lead to artifacts. Color shifts are also common in many cameras, some even 5x the price.
 

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On the R6 (and presumably others) you can see the right of the histogram get crunched more and more to the left as you lower ISO below 400 while in C-log. You can also see it on the waveform scopes of the cinema line (the top getting chainsawed off below ISO 800 or 850).
 
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