AF100 tips, tricks, and FAQs

Yes, that's probably my favorite aspect of there being two slots. I don't really anticipate needing 24 hours of recording capacity loaded in the camera at once, but the ability to extract selected clips and make a new card is pretty cool.
 
I have a canon 50mm FD mount I cant set the stop on, despite having the Lens Check set to off. Whether the stop is set at 1.4 or 16, I can see no difference in the viewfinder or on the recorded image.
Im using a rainbow fd to micro 4/3 adapter - my other Fd mount lens is a Canon 70-210 zoom, and does not have the same issue. Any ideas why I cant set the stop on my 50mm? Thanks for any help!
 
Not familiar with that lens, but I presume it has a manual aperture ring? Perhaps the aperture blades are stuck? Or there's maybe a DOF preview button that needs to be pressed?
 
I have a canon 50mm FD mount I cant set the stop on, despite having the Lens Check set to off. Whether the stop is set at 1.4 or 16, I can see no difference in the viewfinder or on the recorded image.
Im using a rainbow fd to micro 4/3 adapter - my other Fd mount lens is a Canon 70-210 zoom, and does not have the same issue. Any ideas why I cant set the stop on my 50mm? Thanks for any help!

Likely you have figured this out by now, but I had the same issue...the problem is when mounting the lens onto the adapter there is a little pin(on the adapter) that has to engage a tab on the lens...it is easy to accidentally attach the lens without the pin moving the tab.

Hope it helps!

Bob
 
FD lens aperture not working

FD lens aperture not working

Photos to illustrate canon fd attachment...when mounting the lens the pin that is seen inside the novoflex adapter needs to slide the lens aperture tab as you mount the lens to adapter.novoflexfdm43circled.jpgcanonfdmountcircle.jpg
 

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No Audio - it happened to me yesterday...

No Audio - it happened to me yesterday...

I went out on a test shoot with my friend's AF100 yesterday and came back after three hours to find out that we had no audio!
Luckily we had a second camera (A sony NEX-5) and we used the audio recorded into that.


When I get my camera I will print out this thread and tape it to the back of the camera...

Just kidding, but #2, the one about not recording audio if VFR is "on" will bite me, I know... It's exactly the kind of mistake I'm prone to make, and it's only a matter of time... I hope a future firmware upgrade disables the audio meters - that was suggested early on I know...
 
When outputting 1080 over SDI, the broadcast standard is 1080/60i. When you're shooting 24p, that means that the camera inserts 3:2 pulldown to convert the 24p signal into 60i for output.

The AF100 has the ability to instead output the special 24PsF mode, which is really basically 48i -- no pulldown at all. It's interlaced, but a monitor or recorder that understands 24PsF will also know that it's meant to be progressive, and the monitor will know to reassemble it into its true progressive nature before displaying it. And a recorder like the NanoFlash can read 24PsF and knows to convert it into true 24P. So, in effect, 24PsF means "output true pure native 24P instead of interlaced 60i with 3:2 pulldown."

So for certain uses it can be nice and handy. But it also causes lots of conflicts, so only use it when you really need it.

Thanks Barry, this helps me a lot course I would verry mutch like to shoot 24p on the Atomos 'Samurai' , lets hope it understands to record in 1080-24p from the output SDI , further I will have to keep in mind now I can't shoot autofocus at that time. the HDMI disable and variable framerate is not a huge problem to me course I do not expect the 'Samurai' to be able of recording variable framerate and the HDMI I wont need at time of recording.
 
if the shutter is off its 1/50, in the manual

Andy



When it comes to the audio meters and VFR. Its very easy to see VFR is on. You'll have XX:24 or XX:25.

Im sure many of you already know this but Im going to just type it out anyway.

RELATES TO FILM CAM MODE ONLY

A small gotcha for those in PAL land and who havent used a Pana cam before. But lets call it what it really is shooting in 50Hz.

When set to 25P, the shutter options in the menu are 1/25 or 1/60. Typically when trying to obtain that film like motion blur we want a 180 degree shutter which equates to 1/50th. But there is no 1/50th right? Wrong.

Two ways to achieve 1/50th or a 180 degree shutter.

1/ On the back left side of cam is the Dial select button - which as you know changes the function of the dial below it. There are a few options

Dial Shutter
Dial frame rate
Dial Lock

Choose dial shutter. Then if you scroll the wheel your presented with 1/25, 1/60, 1/120, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000 then the final is the shutter degrees. This is set to 180 degree by default. So if it reads 180, select it and viola your where you need to be.

BUT, what about if you change the value for syncro scan and how do you do that anyway?

With the shutter showing the shutter angle hit the dial select button again - then using the dial up or down, this will let you choose any shutter angle from 10 to 360 degrees. So setback to 180 if its on something else and your set.

2/ This is the easiest way to get straight out 1/50 or 180 degrees without any fuss.

Again, use the dial select button to select Dial Shutter. Then simply push the dial in and you will see on the LCD "Shutter Off". This actually sets the camera to a shutter or 1/50.

These functions are exactly the same in NTSC land (59.94Hz) countries. When you're at 180 or shutter off your at 1/48th.
 
Has there been any word on expanding the functionality of the dial to include film speed/ISO sensitivity? I know others have been asking, but I didn't know if Panasonic has definitively answered on if it is even possible or expected as a firmware update. It is certainly awkward while trying to maintain DOF when light changes to have to drill into menus to get to the sensitivity/iso settings for in between the pre assigned boost switch settings.
Jan??? Barry???
 
I have heard nothing about any such change coming. Again, traditionally there have been no feature enhancements for existing models.
 
I just bought an AF100. After I shoot and copy the PRIVATE folder to my PC; I view the footage in Windows Media Player and it is natively small. If footage is HD, W.M.P. always natively makes the image large. Showing that it is indeed HD.
My footage is also pixelated when zooming or fast camera movement. It looks like bad compression. I am recording in 1080/24p. The footage should be natively large and crisp. When I import the footage in Adobe Premiere Pro CS5 (AVCHD 1080p Sequence) It fills the whole frame making me think it IS in fact HD. However the footage still pops in and out of pixelation. I am using the footage under STREAM in the PRIVATE folder. Is this the correct and uncompressed footage? I have also tried dropping the PRIVATE folder directly into Premiere and it accepts it minus a few files. The accepted footage it uses is still pixelated. Also when I view the footage on the camera it appears to be perfect. What am I doing wrong? Please help.
 
Hi - So if I'm recording SDI out to a KiProMini, and I want true 24P, I need to make sure the camera is set to 24PsF? Also, if I want to record 30P, then I am ultimately getting 1080/60i with a pulldown to make it 30P?
 
Very helpful information, certainly the Focus Advice. I would not have thought about that. Makes good sense.
 
I just bought an AF100. After I shoot and copy the PRIVATE folder to my PC; I view the footage in Windows Media Player and it is natively small. If footage is HD, W.M.P. always natively makes the image large. Showing that it is indeed HD.
My footage is also pixelated when zooming or fast camera movement. It looks like bad compression. I am recording in 1080/24p. The footage should be natively large and crisp. When I import the footage in Adobe Premiere Pro CS5 (AVCHD 1080p Sequence) It fills the whole frame making me think it IS in fact HD. However the footage still pops in and out of pixelation. I am using the footage under STREAM in the PRIVATE folder. Is this the correct and uncompressed footage? I have also tried dropping the PRIVATE folder directly into Premiere and it accepts it minus a few files. The accepted footage it uses is still pixelated. Also when I view the footage on the camera it appears to be perfect. What am I doing wrong? Please help.

Perhaps you figured it out by now, but yes, you are using the correct footage, although it is compressed. There is no uncompressed footage. AVCHD is a highly compressed format, but it is in fact HD. The most likely reason you're having trouble viewing it in your computer is that you don't have the right codec installed. If you install the free K Lite Codec Pack that should solve most of your problems.
Also, don't worry if your footage doesn't look great in Premiere CS5. Once you export it, it will look fine again.
 
Since the footage looks fine in the camera and not on the computer, I would have someone look into the specs of the computer. I had to build a whole new workstation to run CS5. There are only certain graphics cards that are set up to do the hardware assisted processing of the HD footage... also a lot of RAM helps too.
 
The AF100 *does* have support for servo zoom control. If you look on Panasonic's lens compatibility chart you'll see that there is support for controlling servo zoom via the S/S jacks on both the H-PS14042 and the H-PS45175 lenses. I ordered the H-PS45175, updated my AF100 firmware to 1.17 and updated the H-PS45175 to firmware 1.1. I then plugged in my VariZoom, set camera lens detect to On and away I went. Iris, focus AND zoom control!

Edit: Here's a video that shows the Varizoom in action with the AF100.
 
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i used to fs100 back in my country iran but now i'm in KL-malaysia to make a documentry movie by af100 ( af102en in malaysia ) that i bought here just for a week . lovely camera but there is noticeable noise even in iso 200 . i don't know if it's my camera problem or what ?
here is the setting i shoot some test :
filmcam 25p
iso : 200
detail : -5
v detail : -5
coring : +2
norm2
b-press or cine like v

is there anyone have a same issue or it's my camera problem ?
thanks .
 
Try lower master ped -2 or -3.
b press with normal2 for lowlight or cine-d with normal2 for controled light.
Try iso 320, looked cleaner to my eyes.
Detail 0 and coring -2 if you dont want to have soft picture.
Check so DRS is at 0.
If its still noisy you need to check you monitor calibration and playback settings...
 
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robbin really thank you for your fast response ...
lower master ped number seems better in cine-d but in b press it looses latitude and seems too contrasty .
about iso 320 i must try but in theory as you know iso 200 must be cleaner .
lower coring makes more noise with detailed images .
DRS was off in my tests but sometimes gone to 1 for better latitude and looks no difference in noise .
and at last about calibrating my monitor , i have read barry's discussion about calibrating but i did not have same issue with fs100 in higher gain or 5d also in iso 800 or more in my monitor .
dose external recorder like samurai can solve this related to the higher bite rate and better compression ?
by the way i'm afraid this is my camera problem but panasonic malaysia customer care center did not understand my problem and it seems they don't know about noise either .
 
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