A warning about the LA-EA2 adapter with FS100

... Now that I've seen that "push to focus" works, however, I feel a bit better about things.

Keep in mind that when you "Push to AF", it also changes the aperture to 3.5 while focusing.
So if you manually set the aperture at 1.4, it will focus at 3.5 when you push the button, then change back to the manually selected aperture setting when you release the button. But now the focus can be off because the DOF becomes narrower at 1.4, compared to the D0F when it focused at 3.5.

It's also a bit annoying because it switches to auto-everything (auto-shutter, auto-WB, auto-ISO) while you "Push AF", then changes back to manual when you release the button.
 
Keep in mind that when you "Push to AF", it also changes the aperture to 3.5 while focusing.
So if you manually set the aperture at 1.4, it will focus at 3.5 when you push the button, then change back to the manually selected aperture setting when you release the button. But now the focus can be off because the DOF becomes narrower at 1.4, compared to the D0F when it focused at 3.5.

It's also a bit annoying because it switches to auto-everything (auto-shutter, auto-WB, auto-ISO) while you "Push AF", then changes back to manual when you release the button.

Which tends to darken the image and makes a clicking sound . So push to af is not very useful whilst recording which is a big shame
 
I thought after reading all the posts I would put in my two cents on the LA-EA2 and my current experience. I am very unhappy with the autofocus. In most low light situations when I have used it I experience hunting, especially with a subject who is moving slightly forward and back or hand movements. My Zeiss 24-70 together with the LA-EA2 hunts for focus and jumps between the subject and the background. No great. So I don't use it. Why bother?
I like my FS100, love the look with my primes and with my stock lens that I thought would sit in the bag but is on more often than off. I experience less hunting with my Tokina 11-16 for obvious reasons and recently I was considering buying a Sigma 70-200 but will hold off for a while and contemplate my next camera.
Just my two cents but I think Sony needs to look at a firmware update for the FS100 and LA-EA2 though I have no expereience with the LA-EA3 I can't imagine that it would solve the hunting problem just deal with less vignetteing.
 
Can anyone provide any info on the following attributes
of the LA-EA2:

1) Under what if any circumstances will invoking AF while
rolling not cause a blemish/flash on the video?
2) How does the device determine what to focus on?
3) How does it behave if f3.5 isn't available (say on the 18-200 3.5-6.5 in telephoto?

thanks.
 
Can anyone provide any info on the following attributes
of the LA-EA2:

1) Under what if any circumstances will invoking AF while
rolling not cause a blemish/flash on the video?
2) How does the device determine what to focus on?
3) How does it behave if f3.5 isn't available (say on the 18-200 3.5-6.5 in telephoto?

thanks.

1) You can continuous autofocus but not really. The dSLR style of focus simply doesn't work for video. It's a quick focus then another quick focus - hunting etc,. It's not smooth and continuous like the dedicated video lenses. You would only ever use AF to do a one shot focus at the start of a shot, then go manual.

2) You can choose the AF points (although usually centre). Otherwise it's the same as a stills camera - it's not that clever.

3) If no 3.5 it will go to whatever the widest is, 6.5 in your example. The key is that it will never open up more than f3.5 because the chances of hitting focus at f2.8 or lower is quite slim, so it's artificially restricted (you can get around it)

In general the LA-EA2 is used to control Iris and perhaps one push AF. You'd not want any more than that when shooting.

The new A mount to E speedbooster has a clickless manual iris on it, i don't know whether there are any adapters that just have the iris control but that could be a substitute for the LA-EA2.

I do use mine a lot because i like my ZA zooms, i notice that that the mirror and glass in it isn't perfectly flat - i've not seen any noticeable aberrations but there must be some somewhere.

cheers
Paul
 
I've had the same exact issues with the Sony A99V SLT body which I got all excited about because it's FF with real lenses. I bought a 20mm f/2.8 Minolta lens and ran into the same problem. It's even worse if you shell out the $1800 for the Zeiss 135mm f/1.8 which is a lens I drooled on until I realized that shooting video on the A99, it was reduced to a 135mm f/3.5!

My answer has been a Canon FD200mm f/2.8 (ebay $190) and a $19 Amazon adapter for use on my VG20 and through using the Samyang glass in Sony FF mounts on the A99V. You start recording, press the AE lock button, and then set your aperture wherever you want, which for me is glued to wide open ;). I love the 35 and 85 cinema lenses and also have the 14 and 24mm f/1.4 as well. They are going to come out with a 50mm f/1.2 next year which i will buy sight unseen. Amazon also carries the variable ND filters for cheap that have worked great for me so far...

If I were in your shoes, and I hope to be soon (looking to buy an FS100 now), I'd try a cheap adapter and pick up a Samyang lens--they are really great, sharp, with good contrast, etc... FWIW... pm-r :)
 
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