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2 questions G / M filter and sources for softpadded case (or other alternatives)

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    2 questions G / M filter and sources for softpadded case (or other alternatives)


    What green and magenta filter correction do you use for your leds or what do you recommend?
    I came accross the Lee Zircon system which is made specially for LED, but it doesn't have both green and magenta...

    Do you keep all strengths or only the lower end of the spectrum? I thought going with the latter since you can always double up. (a roll of everything can become quite costly)
    It's only for COB Leds.
    Could go for small sheets, but when I put on a softbox I need a large sheet. So a roll might be better option.

    Second question.
    Does anybody have good resources in Europe for economic (cheap) lightweight cases for led panels?
    I put softpadded cases in the title as those are most of the time lighter and often cheaper.
    But hard cases are fine too. I just want them to be more or less fitting my LED Panels.


    Re no plus green, on one hand it makes sense from a production standpoint if removing green is much more common than adding it. On the other hand, the whole point of these extremely specific filters are for corrections so why not cover plus green? Maybe there's some physics in the way that prevent magenta filters being categorised as zircon. Maybe only Mitch Gross and Phil Rodes know the answer?

    In my experience 1/8 and 1/4 strength +/- green are the most common but I'm sure people have stories of using 1/2 and full strengths. A film lighting package for example will probably carry all strengths of correction filters but if space is limited then I'd just go with couple of one size fits all 1/8 sheets that will cover your softbox, which means that same sheet will definitely cover anything smaller too (unless it's a giant softbox). Sheets might fit in the lid of a hard case and longer rolls may work in tripod cases.

    From a flashlight forum, someone made a chart comparing the standard strengths with the zircon line -

    This person looks to be selling smaller sizes -
    More reading -


      For tungsten and HMI’s, I had a full complement(1/8, 1/4, 1/2, Full) of plus and minus green, but I don’t need it for most of my LED’s, especially my most recent ones, because they look great(for LED’s) on camera and they have a built-in +/- green adjustment. I’ve only used it once anyway, though. I was shooting some stand-ups outside in front of a building last year and the architectural LED’s had a green tint on-camera, so I dialed in(by eye in the VF) some + green on my Gemini’s, so that everything matched.


        Thanks for the links rob norton I'll read up on them later

        I've got different Led lighting brands mixed together. Some are rgbww with green and magenta correction, some are cob daylight.
        What I thought about doing was renting a color spectrum meter and measure my lights at various 10% , 25% , 50% , 75%, 100%.
        And afterwards make a card at what brightness level, what correction is needed.

        I think I'd go with a 1/8 roll of green and magenta. Or even lower than 1/8 if that exists.
        And double or triple up if needed. Unless some say that that is an extremely stupid idea. (Though keep in mind this is for small stuff, not big production)


          I don't think you'll find 1/16th strengths, you might have to get creative there! Your camera's manual white balance should get you in the ballpark of which filters you'll need before buying/renting the spectrometer.

          For cases, IDK what panels you have but or where to buy in Europe so maybe ebay for these b&H photo cases but I've got the luxli case for 3 timpani lights:

          They have a two light version as well -

          They're not the most robust in the world (the larger taiko cases struggle with the shoulder strap but that's a pretty heavy case!) but seem like pretty good value.