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Correct CTB Gels For Day & Night Correction

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    Correct CTB Gels For Day & Night Correction

    Hey Guys,

    I know that the color temperature of the sun varies during the day depending on what time of day it is, but I'm not sure if it gets hotter or cooler as the day goes on. Also, I know the color temperature of an overcast day is different than that of a sunny day. Along those lines, night is a completely different color temperature of moonlight altogether.

    That said, I would like any recommendations you guys have as to the exact strength of CTB Gel (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or full) to accurately balance a tungsten light to these conditions:

    1. Sunny - Mid-Day
    2. Sunny - Late Day
    3. Overcast
    4. Nighttime (Moonlight)

    What grade of CTB have you found looks best, or produces a great and accurate look of daylight? Also, would you recommend diffusing lights used for day/night light simulation, or is hard light best? Thanks in advance for all your help.

    #2
    According to the professional lighting handbook
    Sunset 2300
    Sunrise 2500
    Moonlight 5400
    Daylight 6500

    According to rosco gels
    full CTB converts 3200 to daylight (doesn't say the temp)
    3/4 CTB Converts 3200 to 4700 or daylight below 5000 to bring it to a full daylight
    1/2 CTB converts 3200 to 4100
    1/3 CTB converts 3200 to 3800
    1/4 CTB converts 3200 to 3500

    Hope that helps

    Comment


      #3
      By daylight it means 5600k because daylight film stocks record white light at 5600k
      CHAYSE IRVIN
      DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
      WWW.CHAYSEIRVIN.COM

      Comment


        #4
        The type of CTB you use depends greatly on the color temperature of the lights you are planning to shoot with. HMI lighting can typically achieve 5600k with only 1/4 or 1/8, but Tungsten lights can take anywhere from 1/2-Full. Most tungsten practicals require full blue to reach 5600k because they are actually 3000k instead of 3200k.
        Overcast days are higher color temperature than sunny days, because skylight is very blue. Thusly, when the sun is not as much of a factor, you may need to blue your HMIs up a bit more to stay consistant.
        It is typically the most realistic to diffuse moonlight with Opal or 216 diffusion because moon light is a bounced source ~~> Sunlight bouncing off of the moon, which is the biggest showcard of all
        Hopefully this helps,
        Justin Talley
        Director of Photography
        323.353.8977
        FS100 - 7D - 5DMkII - 16 BolexPro - Bell & Howell Filmo - HVX200
        Nikon AIS Primes, Tokina 11-16 Zoom, Redrock, Zacuto, Genus and the rest
        profnoxin@gmail.com
        www.jtalleydp.com

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          #5
          Thanks so much guys.

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