Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Would bypassing AF100 to Atomos Samurai give me better results for chromakeying???

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Barry as usual expressed the technical explanation of video clearly and concisely, much better than my clumsy attempt. I just was alarmed at the missing green!

    At this point my video knowledge comes to bits (pun not intended) regarding the ins and outs of video colourspace beyond uncompressed, as I guess I've always worked 444 if you want to put film work with frames into video colourspace.
    I shoot it and post it and I love this camera.
    It's like shooting transparency film instead of negative, with very little latitude to work with.

    Give me 10bit log Cineon frames scanned from film, with lovely flobbily grain and a long rolloff in the highlights and I'll take you to the moon in a Nuke.
    T h e E l e c t r i c P i g L t d .
    nuker, pfarmer & general pixelmonkey
    www.electricpig.net

    Comment


      #32
      Thanks, Barry. Corrected.
      Last edited by PopcornFlix; 02-03-2012, 12:01 AM.
      .: popcornFlix :.

      Comment


        #33
        dhart1949, can you tell me what the AF100's "low noise" camera profile is? Did you just set the AF100 to lowest ISO setting (200 ISO), or are there other settings you tweak in the AF100 to get that low noise profile???

        Comment


          #34
          Until dhart1949 can respond, I'll just point out a couple of things that assist with getting lower noise: use NORM2 matrix, and turn your detail and v-detail levels down to about -4, and if you need still lower noise, you can crank the coring up.
          ..
          The AU-EVA1 Book - The DVX200 Book - The UX180 & UX90 Book - Lighting For Film & TV - Sound For Film & TV

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by electricpig View Post
            Some very interesting points you make there, especially the silhouette with lights off, which sounds very old school optical - which is a good thing!

            But I have to question the 420 logic, as we are not recording RGB with video cameras, rather YUV.
            The Luma samples are full quality in the 4, whearas it's chroma samples that are half sampled in the 2,
            and missing all together in the 0 and hence interpolated, hence 420.

            422 half samples all chroma. (chroma interpolation occurs to make up the picture).

            This all works and is aided by the fact that the eye is more sensitive to Luma than Chroma.
            This cannot be more wrong...

            Anyways, I'm new and that probably wasn't a good start! I am recording green screen for corporate on an EX3 (samurai) and soon a FS100 (ninja), and wouldn't mind some advice. The key (pardon the pun) is in the lighting it seems, with 4:2:2 obviously helping because you have more co-sited pixels per pixel than 4:2:0 which will help with keying... However, all my keys are going to be for nought if I cannot get a proper evenly lit green screen. Unfortunately I only have these Ikan LED lights (http://www.prokit.co.uk/index.php?vi...-LED-Light-Kit) to light the screen... the screen is around 10 feet diagonal (believe it or not it was larger until I cut it down).

            What would people recommend I do to light the screen more evenly? Can anyone recommend a good light meter for under 100 and would it help any in getting an even key? Lighting was never my strong suite and tended to lean towards post when leaving Uni, but now it seems all I do is TRY and light a green screen!

            Thanks all in advance for any help!
            BTW sorry if I have hijacked this thread... thought it would be good to keep it going! haha
            Last edited by spikerules; 03-30-2012, 09:02 AM.

            Comment


              #36
              Anyone have any advice?

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by spikerules View Post
                This cannot be more wrong...

                Anyways, I'm new and that probably wasn't a good start! I am recording green screen for corporate on an EX3 (samurai) and soon a FS100 (ninja), and wouldn't mind some advice. The key (pardon the pun) is in the lighting it seems, with 4:2:2 obviously helping because you have more co-sited pixels per pixel than 4:2:0 which will help with keying... However, all my keys are going to be for nought if I cannot get a proper evenly lit green screen. Unfortunately I only have these Ikan LED lights (http://www.prokit.co.uk/index.php?vi...-LED-Light-Kit) to light the screen... the screen is around 10 feet diagonal (believe it or not it was larger until I cut it down).

                What would people recommend I do to light the screen more evenly? Can anyone recommend a good light meter for under 100 and would it help any in getting an even key? Lighting was never my strong suite and tended to lean towards post when leaving Uni, but now it seems all I do is TRY and light a green screen!

                Thanks all in advance for any help!
                BTW sorry if I have hijacked this thread... thought it would be good to keep it going! haha

                Instead of spending the money on a light meter, why not hire a good gaffer
                Video Producer - IATSE 891 Member Lamp Op

                Gear: Panasonic AF-100, Canon 5D III (ON ORDER), HyperDeck Shuttle 2, RedRock Live Lens, ARRI Lighting Kit, SmallHD DP6-SDI, Cartoni Sticks, Canon EF 50mm 1.4, Canon EF 85mm 1.8, Canon EF 16-35mm 2.8

                http://www.bvkfilmsinc.com

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by BVK_FILMS_INC View Post
                  Instead of spending the money on a light meter, why not hire a good gaffer
                  Haha, we're talking low budget here... I am the writer, director, dop etc etc all in one!

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X