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Remote start stop record for AF100

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    Excellent. Nice detective work.
    Awarded Best Clear Com Chatter, 2001, PBS Television


      resistors are unnecessary

      C100 / Aerial Shooter/Editor - NY/NJ

      My work, My equipment, My other whatnots...


        So you basically make a short cut between the center pin to the outer pin right? I'll might dig into my electronicbox and put something together tonight.


          Originally posted by editman View Post
          So you basically make a short cut between the center pin to the outer pin right? I'll might dig into my electronicbox and put something together tonight.
          'B' & 'C' are what is called the 'ring' and 'sleeve' with 'tip' or 'A' on the end. The sleeve is 'common' or 'ground'. 10k ohm goes between the ring and sleeve.

          I'm not sure what Darren is doing differently but from the IM's I've received, his plan is not working for a number of users and this resistor does the trick. Perhaps it's influenced by the type of lens attached to the camera.

          I did notice in his video that he is running two shielded wires from the 2.5 mil connector, having come off a Motorola headset - no telling what's inside the moulded connector.

          I did measure 3.23vdc across A & C and 3.27 vdc across B & C so I would avoid any cross connection between A & B - no telling where that might go.

          Who knows - this option works where the direct connect failed so you decide.

          Last edited by ScottNelson; 04-14-2011, 08:34 AM.
          formerly SNP


            just refit my waterhousing for my hpx170 to fit the af100 in but none of the manual controls are in the right spot. will be looking some of the electric controls for on off and zoom as well. each separate would be perfect to attach to each existing nob. had to take off the top handle and it just squeeked in.
   fs700 , metabones , q7 , 5dm3 , heli gyro sk8 ,


              I gave it a shot. Had a headset for my wireless phone that didn't work as it should so I tried it to see if I could make it work.

              On the cord is the microphone module with an answer button. By just moving the "A" pin to another point on the push "answer" button it worked. A press and it starts another press and it stops recording. Great!
              When I took away the earpiece it stopped working so there has to be some sort of resistans between "B" and "C". I put a 10k resistor between and it worked like a charm again. Beside adding the resistor I used all of the existing parts and didn't have to add a push button! Total cost=about nothing!

              Check it out here!
              Last edited by Alpha Beta Omega; 04-16-2011, 01:18 AM.


                I know this is an old thread, but thought I would post that I had John Huffman from Jony Jib make me a Y cable that powers a B4 lens and enables start/stop via the lens start/stop button on my AF-100. The cable has a 12-pin hirose connector on one end, with an Anton-Bauer D-tap and a 2.5mm plug on the other. The D-tap plugs into any compatible 12V D-tap jack (battery plate or battery itself), and the 2.5mm plugs into the S/S connector on the back of the AF-100. It works great and is almost $200 cheaper than the one that Abel-Cine sells. It'a available on Ebay if anybody is interested. Just search for "AF100 Y cable." He can also custom build other power if you need a 2.1mm power plug instead of a D-tap, he can provide it.

                I tried making cables myself for this but it's just too darn difficult to solder a 12-pin hirose correctly. The cable I bought works great and I shoot almost exclusively with our Fujinon 20x 2/3" broadcast lens with the AF100. I still use still lenses and own the Panasonic 20mm pancake lens and a few Canons and Tamrons, but it's sooo much easier to shoot with the B4 and the quality difference to my eye is virtually non-existent.

                Chris Blair
                Magnetic Image, Inc.
                Evansville, IN