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    GH2 GH2 - exposure meter ?

    These 2 bars that show f/stop and Shutter Speed ... is there a name for that display?
    Also, is the object to get the 2 red parts to line up at the same place?

    I've always just used the small meter in the bottom center -3...0...+3 but I'm starting to get into some long exposures and the -3...0...+3 isn't giving me reliable results
    so I think it's time I understand the other readout.

    If I know what it is called I can probably find it in the manual or maybe a youtube tutorial on it.
    Thanks!

    DSC_0916_small.jpg
    Steve Karl
    sightsea.com/music
    Panasonic GH5, 2 Panasonic GH2s - Lumix 14-42mm f/3.5, Olympus 17mm f/1.8, Olympus 25mm f/1.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8, Lumix 45-200mm f/4.0, Lumix 100-300mm f/4.0

    #2
    Steve,

    The red portion of both the SS and F scales seems to indicate "warning" exposure might not be satisfactory. I no longer have GH2's, the oldest body I have is the GH4 but in Manual exposure mode turning either front or rear dial brings up those two scales near the bottom of the screen. They merely seem to do the same thing SS and aperture rings on older cameras used to do. That is, display the shutter speed and aperture scales adjacent to each other, with the red portion indicating possible unusable settings.

    The metering readout at the bottom center indicates what the camera metering considers to be "correct" exposure but aside from that may not show you what you need to know for the exposure effect you want. What I do is to have CONSTANT PREVUE set to ON (works only in Manual exposure modes), the small meter readout set EXPO. METER to ON, and the histogram available when wanted through a function button. The meter readout at the bottom tells me if the camera "thinks" exposure is correct, CONSTANT PREVUE shows me what the exposure looks like (darkens and lightens as I make exposure changes), and based on lighting conditions (and the effect I may want) I may call up the histogram to see what is going on with image tones (am I clipping highlights or crushing blacks?).

    I hope you find this somewhat useful.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Bruce, ( Long time no see )

      Yes. It's good to know the red zones are warning zones and "Constant Preview" is always on for me as is EXPO. Meter.
      It's just that when into the second or third long exposure test, things become more 'laggy' in the DVF and on the fold out monitor
      and sometimes the meter readout at the bottom center seems to stick and not respod to changes I make in f/ and SS.
      Maybe I just need to wait longer and refocus.

      Good idea setting the Histogram to the Function button. I've always had it turned off.

      Glad to see you're still around!

      Thanks!
      Steve Karl
      sightsea.com/music
      Panasonic GH5, 2 Panasonic GH2s - Lumix 14-42mm f/3.5, Olympus 17mm f/1.8, Olympus 25mm f/1.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8, Lumix 45-200mm f/4.0, Lumix 100-300mm f/4.0

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Steve_Karl View Post
        These 2 bars that show f/stop and Shutter Speed ... is there a name for that display?
        Also, is the object to get the 2 red parts to line up at the same place?

        I've always just used the small meter in the bottom center -3...0...+3 but I'm starting to get into some long exposures and the -3...0...+3 isn't giving me reliable results
        so I think it's time I understand the other readout.

        If I know what it is called I can probably find it in the manual or maybe a youtube tutorial on it.
        Thanks!

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]125217[/ATTACH]
        I recommend removing the very confusing "Exposure meter" from the screen through the menu option all GH's have for this, and I've had them all. The upper and lower values are not combinations of proper exposures, of course, and if the two red-boxed values are used, you'll be grossly overexposed. The combinations to the left of yellow-barred center show increasing overexposure to over +4EV; and to right of center to over -4EV. I don't get the point, unless you need reminding that decreasing exposure time while closing down aperture decreases overall exposure, and vice-versa. The Exp. comp. bar is much more direct and informative to me, along with keeping the histogram on the screen to check shadow floor and highlight headroom.
        Last edited by Peter Berry; 07-16-2017, 09:00 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Peter. I've been looking past it for so long I just got used to it.
          Now that I see what it really is and isn't telling me I agree. Off is the way to go so it's off now.
          I think we can call this one "Solved"
          Steve Karl
          sightsea.com/music
          Panasonic GH5, 2 Panasonic GH2s - Lumix 14-42mm f/3.5, Olympus 17mm f/1.8, Olympus 25mm f/1.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8, Lumix 45-200mm f/4.0, Lumix 100-300mm f/4.0

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Steve_Karl View Post
            Thanks Peter. I've been looking past it for so long I just got used to it.
            Now that I see what it really is and isn't telling me I agree. Off is the way to go so it's off now.
            I think we can call this one "Solved"
            You're welcomed, Steve. It would have been much more useful if they just reversed the order of the top or bottom row: then you get five pairs, all with same exposure - like a super "P" mode display. Of course you could twist your eyeballs a bit by looking at diagonal pairs on the present display - eg 15" @ f/16 = 1" @ f/4...

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Steve_Karl View Post
              Hi Bruce, ( Long time no see )

              It's just that when into the second or third long exposure test, things become more 'laggy' in the DVF and on the fold out monitor
              and sometimes the meter readout at the bottom center seems to stick and not respod to changes I make in f/ and SS.
              Maybe I just need to wait longer and refocus.
              That "laggy" may be partially due to some noise reduction going on with long exposures. It also may be somewhat due to the processor being a bit "overloaded", there can be a lot going on with long exposures. In addition, with shutter speeds lower than 1/30th or 1/15th you're going to see a lot of image smearing (assuming you're in manual exposure mode) when moving the camera. This is the camera showing you the actual effect of slow shutter speeds as best it can.

              Originally posted by Steve_Karl View Post
              Good idea setting the Histogram to the Function button. I've always had it turned off.
              I prefer not to have it cluttering up the screen but I do want it available if I want to check it. It's important to remember it's NOT an exposure meter, though.

              Originally posted by Steve_Karl View Post
              Glad to see you're still around!
              Yeah, still here. This site and mu-43.com are the main two I check daily. But it's real good to see you here!

              Everyone has opinions on what to have on the screen and what to turn off. That meter readout at the bottom center isn't really confusion once you are familiar with what it's telling you and these in camera meters can be quite spot on. It's useful for giving you a reference point at a glance for whether exposure is low, at the proper point, or high. As stated in a previous post I use it in conjunction with how the image in the EVF (or on the LCD if not in bright ambient light) looks exposure effect wise, and sometimes the histogram.

              It helps to know exposure theory, and practical usage too. I've had about 33yrs of professional still photo experience and had to know exposure, how it related to film processing results so all that helps me in the digital (and digital video) age.

              Comment


                #8
                Oh yes. The one bottom center -3...0...+3 ... I'm very familiar with that one. It's always been my go along with the DVF.
                Knowing when to under expose when comparing that meter to what I'm seeing in the frame is pretty second nature now it seems.

                Any long exposures I'll be doing will be on tripod.

                I looked into assigning histogram to the FN1 but it seems GH2 doesn't allow that.

                Chatch ya later.
                Thanks!
                Steve Karl
                sightsea.com/music
                Panasonic GH5, 2 Panasonic GH2s - Lumix 14-42mm f/3.5, Olympus 17mm f/1.8, Olympus 25mm f/1.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8, Lumix 45-200mm f/4.0, Lumix 100-300mm f/4.0

                Comment

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