Black Friday Specials

[Eric Coughlin]

That's right! Making "DP" stand for defeating problems!

I know someone who likes to DP with BBC.

[homerc67]

Anyone need a dual Sony BP series charger? I picked one up from BorrowLenses for $76 with code BLACKFRIDAY2020 https://www.borrowlenses.com/product...=gear-for-sale

[Run&Gun]

I know someone who likes to DP with BBC.

[James0b57]

Off a cursory observation of the various YouTube clips, FC does help lose the "video look" but more importantly it provides more custom options to the editor at the time when a lot of cameras look good but also look a lot alike. And FC helps in setting them apart.

Well said!

FC-N is a great tool, and the Cyber Monday deal is well worth it.

I'd upgrade to Nitrate from the Pro, but then I'd be close to $200 all in, when Davinci and FCPX are $300. And if you get those apple store gift cards on sale, then FCPX is 15% off. So, I'll try to get by with the Pro version, even though I really like how the Nitrate version works better. I can do a lot more with Davinci Resolve, which I still haven't purchased yet, crazily enough. But plan to when work picks up to normal or maybe after the official version of DR17.

FilmConvert switching from the Pro to Nitrate felt like a Red Digital Cinema move... "Obsolenscence obsolete". They made it seem like if you buy FC Pro then you are locked into an evolving product. But then they do a major update and then change the name, raise the price, phase out the old, so they can capitalize on the existing user base, after saturating the market. I don't fault them for that, and I feel they deserve the asking price. Just leaves a bad taste is all.

The black Friday upgrade price is really only $60, so tempting. But that is $60 taking away from a Davinci Resolve or FCP price. And Davinci is $300 taking away from a LED light purchase, and the LED light is $500 taking away from a new monitor purchase. And the monitor is $1000 taking away from a microphone purchase. AND and.... haha.

It is all about priorities, and if FC-N gives a short cut or even enables one to get to a higher level, it is then worth double what they ask.

[James0b57]

I thought about getting a normal backpack. But I want something as small as possible (just large enough to fit what I need), and every backpack was larger than that. Which means extra weight in the backpack itself as well, then. Plus, I'd rather not have straps coming over my shoulders. But a snugly-fitting backpack could work.

And when I say I'm monitoring audio - I really just mean listening in to make sure there isn't a drop-out or static or some other unacceptable problem. I would not be able to monitor it visually or make adjustments while operating gimbal. But I set a level for the mix before starting, and the F6 records a lower level of the mics as well that will never clip.

So, I went with the Peak Design Sling 5L. Part of what sold me on it is they had some shots in the commercial of a guy riding a skateboard and the pack clung to the middle of his back with zero play. That's what I want - something I can forget I'm wearing. It's the size of a large fanny pack, but large enough for a couple lenses, lens cleaner, filters, batteries/cards. Or my zoom f6 and 2 sennheiser receivers with room to spare

I bought this a while back. The Portabrace 3-lens hip-pack.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...elt_for_4.html


It is technically a hip pack, but I often use it as a sling. It is the most versatile "bag" I own. I am considering getting a second one.

The hip-pack design makes lens changes easier, since it is in the level and upright position when worn belt like. But it that ever gets uncomfortable, or makes one selfconcios (fanny-pack conatations) then it can just sling over the shoulder as well.

It has a deceptive amount of pocket options. The top and front zipper pockets hold a lot, since they are just cloth. The belt portion has a slim zipper pouch for things like lens cloths. And there are two open pockets on either side that are open, but good for temporarily storing quick access tools or lens caps. There is also a rear flat pocket on the inside back, which is good for things like color checker passport or whatever.

The utilitarian black design can work with any industry, I feel. But likely won't win any fashion awards.

[Eric Coughlin]

That CLAR Illumi Max 500 is tempting. 500w on the cheap. Still, $700 isn't nothing and if the Aputure is much better then it's worth the extra $1K. But for say attempting an M18 replacement, three 600Ds gets a bit pricey at $6k, while say two CLAR Maxes and an Aputure 600D for $3500 is more affordable.

Is the CLAR Max separate ballast and control box so there are three pieces to it (making it more of a hassle to deal with like the original 300D), or is the ballast and control unit on the same piece?

I'd read that the CLAR 300 had three separate pieces, but could not find that info for the 500. Adorama only lists weight specs for the ballst and head, which are actually around half of the weight of the 600D. I haven't checked dimensions, but I suspect it's smaller as well, which could be a big selling point to trying to fit a lot of raw power into a small vehicle on the cheap.

Full mast rotation isn't important to me. I guess the light may not be as reliable as Apurture. Any other downsides? I don't want to throw away money on cruddy gear just because it's on sale.

[QuickHitRecord]

Is the CLAR Max separate ballast and control box so there are three pieces to it (making it more of a hassle to deal with like the original 300D), or is the ballast and control unit on the same piece?

As far as I know, it's two pieces. Ballast and control box are combined into one unit that sits on the ground, same as the Clar 350. The Clar 300 had the old ballast/control box, which were seperate

Any other downsides?

DVXuser Jbregar has put most of my concerns to bed but looking at it closely, the build quality doesn't look as solid as the Aputure or even Godox lights.

[puredrifting]

Personally, I'd get the 500 and 180 for more power and versatility.

I agree with run&gun about caring more about output than minimum dimming. Of course, more capabilities are always a good thing (all else being equal) and I've swapped out fill lights numerous times in favor of smaller units after dimming them down all the way and still being too bright. But I own about 15 sub-100w LEDs and what I could really use is a more powerful key.

Btw for anyone who doesn't know the aputure design and full-tilt range James has been referring to - the rear end of the CLAR sticks out too far to rotate through the yoke, unlike the aputure which can do this:

Attachment 141499

I've not understood the point of this and I've seen it some reviews. Attach the DC in power cable to the light to, you know, power it and this function
essentially disappears? Do people like to twirl their unpowered lights 360 degrees just because they can? ;-)

The dual mount spigot on the Godox is better anyway. Between the two mounting points, you can get the light to shine anywhere, regardless of the DC power cable.

[puredrifting]

Nanlite Forza series is on sale at Adorama. Just grabbed 2 Forza 500s - POWER!

Cool light. But for the $1,500.00 on sale, I could buy three of the Godox VL300s and have more flexibility assuming I only occasionally needed to key
with that much power like through a 4x4, 6x6 or 8x8. I like the two and three light bars from Matthews. But seems like a good deal for a powerful single instrument.

[puredrifting]

Attachment 141501

My wife says I should stop frequenting dvxuser because she says it's a GAS factory

Your wife is paying attention. Don't piss her off by buying too much stuff ;-)