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    #11
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    Yeah - i had the voighlander 25 for an older panny camera and I think I sold it for the panny 12-35.
    'Since there is no AF with the BM, there is no point in purchasing almost any Panasonic or Olympus lens if you're interested in precise manual focusing for traditional filmmaking.' I hear ya on that. thanks again for yer input.


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    #12
    Senior Member Samuel H's Avatar
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    I considered the voigtlander as a shallow-DoF option on the p4k, but it felt a bit too expensive. I bought the Mitakon Zhongyi 25mm f/0.95 instead. And I have to say: it's surprisingly good. Yes, it's soft wide open, but so is the Voigtlander. By f/1.4 it's acceptable, by f/2.8 it's fine.

    As a wide angle I'm using the Samyang 12mm f/2.8 which is a very nice lens, but I like it a lot more on APS-C sensors than on m43, where it's not as wide and it is softer (you're using the central part but you're blowing it up quite a bit compared with APS-C).

    For portraits any good 50mm f/1.4 will work great.


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    #13
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    Thanks Samuel.
    I've watched a couple of vids on Samyang lenses.
    Thanks again for everyone's input.


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    #14
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    I use a Sigma 17-50mm for stills, but it's really not a good lens for video, as it has a very short focus throw, it's not parfocal, and has a lot of focus breathing as I remember.


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    #15
    Senior Member ahalpert's Avatar
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    If you want to splash out on a cinema zoom lens, DZO makes a micro four thirds cinema zoom 20-70mm T2.9 for $1500: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...m4_3_lens.html

    I've never used it. Good reviews at B&H. 20mm is not wide enough for many circumstances, but that's where your 11-16mm Tokina can come into play. With those 2 lenses, you could frame anything you want except wildlife/birds and that sort of long-range shooting.

    If you're not a big wide-angle person, the 20-70 might never leave your camera. But it is more expensive than some of the other options you were looking at, although it would replace about 3 prime lenses


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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahalpert View Post
    If you want to splash out on a cinema zoom lens, DZO makes a micro four thirds cinema zoom 20-70mm T2.9 for $1500: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...m4_3_lens.html

    I've never used it. Good reviews at B&H. 20mm is not wide enough for many circumstances, but that's where your 11-16mm Tokina can come into play. With those 2 lenses, you could frame anything you want except wildlife/birds and that sort of long-range shooting.

    If you're not a big wide-angle person, the 20-70 might never leave your camera. But it is more expensive than some of the other options you were looking at, although it would replace about 3 prime lenses
    I really, really wish that they instead (or in addition to) made a 14-50 or something like that with all of these features. The longer reach (70mm) is great, but on m43 sensor, something around 50-ish is fine for portrait shots, and you really do need something significantly wider than 20mm for wide shots. Having to switch to their wide zoom lens is an option, but I'd prefer to compromise a bit at both end but not have to switch lenses for doc work. If you have the time to switch lenses, then I'd just go with faster primes since t2.9 is not ideal to begin with as far as speed goes.

    What a great price though. The Fujinon mk series delivers a slightly better focal range for what I'm talking about, but it's expensive. All that said, I'm not an optical designer. Maybe going 14-50mm at T2.9 would mean a lens that is twice the size and 3x the cost. Just dreaming about a single parfocal cine zoom lens for doc work on m43. Doesn't exist as far as I can tell. Add OIS to solid mechanical functions like the Canon 18-80 and it would be a dream lens on m43 systems. Obviously, at that point it would not be a $1500 lens.


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    #17
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    Hey Ahalpert,
    The DZO is a good suggestion. I'm gonna sniff around that lens for a bit now. Don't think I will be able to get it on my moza air 2 though. Will have to research.
    I keep going back and forth between keeping my panny 12-35 for shots where I need some throw and don't have to pull focus and picking up the Meike 16mm to keep on my gimbal.
    I hear with with the '11-16mm Tokina can come into play.' but I hear folks saying with the viltrox adapter they have to focus the lens on the adapter to play nice with the tokina. It seemed maybe a little too tricky for me. I thought of the olympus 12-40 MFT and the sigma 17-50 with a viltrox adapter. I might just get viltrox adapters for the two lenses I have(the tokina and sigma) and see what they're like.
    Damn that DZO zoom lens looks sweet.


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    #18
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    Viltrox may have quality control issues, so make sure you purchase your's from a reputable dealer with a good return policy. Also, don't forget to the calibrate the adapter's optical element for infinity focus.


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    #19
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    Imamacuser,
    Yes - I will have to watch some youtube vids how to calibrate the infinity focus
    Merci.


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    #20
    Senior Member ahalpert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin baggott View Post
    Hey Ahalpert,
    The DZO is a good suggestion. I'm gonna sniff around that lens for a bit now. Don't think I will be able to get it on my moza air 2 though. Will have to research.
    I keep going back and forth between keeping my panny 12-35 for shots where I need some throw and don't have to pull focus and picking up the Meike 16mm to keep on my gimbal.
    I hear with with the '11-16mm Tokina can come into play.' but I hear folks saying with the viltrox adapter they have to focus the lens on the adapter to play nice with the tokina. It seemed maybe a little too tricky for me. I thought of the olympus 12-40 MFT and the sigma 17-50 with a viltrox adapter. I might just get viltrox adapters for the two lenses I have(the tokina and sigma) and see what they're like.
    Damn that DZO zoom lens looks sweet.
    Well, the DZO is only 6" long. But it weighs almost 2.5lbs, so you might have to slide the camera/lens pretty far back to balance it. The Moza can take the weight but the balance may or may not be tricky. Adding some weight on top of the camera body would probably help balance it on the platform better but then it gets even heavier. Or maybe it will balance with zero issues.

    What does "throw" mean in the context of the 12-35? Zoom range? Or telephoto focal length?

    I don't know what that means focus the lens on the adapter to play nice with the Tokina. I've used the Tokina on a Viltrox EF-M43 speedbooster and it focuses normally.

    Maybe they're referring to calibrating the speedbooster for infinity focus, as Imamacuser mentioned. You do this by checking to see if your lens (or, ideally, 2 lenses - a wide-angle and a telephoto) can make it to infinity focus on the speedbooster. If they can't, you have to grab the edges of the optical element in the speedbooster and rotate it (clockwise, I believe). You give it a complete rotation or two and then look through your lenses again to see if you have infinity focus yet.

    You only have to do that process once. I haven't touched my speedbooster's optical element since I calibrated it. All my lenses focus normally on it.

    I do get a bit more flare in some heavily backlit situations when using the speedbooster as opposed to no speedbooster. But it's not that bad. Sometimes it looks nice. And I think that the Metabones contributes to flare as well as the Viltrox though I'm not 100% sure. I shot one interview heavily backlit against a window and I decided to pull the speedbooster and use a regular adapter because I needed to diminish flare. But that was a supremely backlit situation and the only time out of scores of shoots where the speedbooster gave me a visible issue.

    It looks like the olympus 12-40 can manually focus with hard stops, which is cool. But otherwise it's basically the same as the panny 12-35. It may vignette on you as well. Or it may not, you'd have to test. (the 12-35, 12-40, 17-50, and 20-70 are all basically the same thing. Accounting for crop factor, they equate in full-frame focal lengths to a 24-70, 24-80, 25.5-75, and a 40-140. So, the 20-70 is a bit more telephoto than all the other lenses, but they are all basically midrange zooms.)

    And with the viltrox adapters - they make booth a speedbooster adapter and a regular no-optics adapter. Both are useful because if you want more light or less depth of field, you can use the speedbooster. If you want to zoom in more or get more depth of field, you can use a regular adapter. (Of course, you may want to stick with the same adapter and aperture throughout an entire scene. But the point is that you have options.)
    Last edited by ahalpert; 09-22-2020 at 08:47 AM.


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