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    #21
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    Chris, i wonder if you could do a comparison with a different mic...maybe a super cardioid pickup pattern like an Audix SCX-1...and perhaps getting less room reflections...the 18" should be fine distance wise...

    At the point in the video where you refer to the 'direction' where the highway noise is coming from we don't actually see you...so not sure which wall is letting in the highway noise...but clearly being able to muffle that direction might help...not covering the whole wall of course...but putting sound blankets between the microphone and that 'direction'...possibly..?
    Michael
    Event, Sport & Personal Video espvideo.ca


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    #22
    Senior Member cpreston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris f View Post
    Hmmm.... I wish I knew more about audio. This was recorded with a Senheiser shotgun mic pugged directly into my Canon C200 running off phantom power and then i turned the volume up in post but kept it low enough so it wasn't peaking.
    The Canon inputs aren't too bad, but it has a pretty high noise floor compared to any professional recorder. If you want to record sound directly to camera, I would suggest getting a standalone preamp like a used Sound Devices MixPre and running it line level into the C200. The C200 has unity gain at a setting of five and is meant to to take professional line level at five, so set it to five. Anything above eight and you can hear the preamps at normal playback. Anything below five and you can distort the preamp on the C200 before you peak. Set the preamp for peaks around -12db on the C200 meter and you should be fine. The limiters on the preamp will save you if somebody laughs or something. You also don't need the blimp on the microphone and it is cutting off a few inches that you could use to get closer to the talent.


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    #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris f View Post
    Love this idea and this is probably something that is a lot more feasible for me $$ wise. It's also got me wondering if I could install some hooks on the exterior of the building to hang a big heavy drape or sound blankets sewn together and cover up the rolling doors from the outside too since they're flush with the walls.
    Before you get too excited about building, just know that freeways are among the most difficult ambient noise sources to address -- even if you build something like a 12 foot tall concrete barrier.

    A bunch of heavy blankets are probably not going to produce the effect you're looking for (they will reduce flutter echo in the room, but that's about it, and you could just hang blankets over light stands and strategically position them around the talent/mic to achieve the same effect, no need for advanced rigging).

    I think your best bang for the buck option is to start by trying to air-seal as much of the room/doors as you can.


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    #24
    Sound Ninja Noiz2's Avatar
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    You can't really "air seal" that room. If you look one of the roll up doors is shared with another space so there is no real sealing of the room possible, plus it would get unbearably hot in no time.

    Deadening panels will cut down a lot more than just hanging blankets will. Hanging blankets will cut down on the bounce but they don't absorb much energy. Fiberglass panels will absorb energy and can make an actual difference.

    The bottom line that everyone is pretty much saying a version of is that with out spending $$$$ you are not going to eliminate that freeway. You may be able to get it low enough for your uses.
    Cheers
    SK


    Scott Koue
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    #25
    Senior Member chris f's Avatar
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    thanks everyone for your replies, they have been super helpful in gauging what's doable in this space. I'll report back if/when we do anything. Currently the first step is to wait for the owner to commit to installing air conditioning in the space (which is supposed to happen) as it will be completely unusable until about October without it due to temperature before committing any $$ to making the space more audio/video friendly.


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    #26
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    If he does commit to AC, then you need to specify the type of ducted AC that will run whisper quiet with the compressor far away outside. Otherwise your current audio issues will pale in comparison to the air conditioning noise.
    Mitch Gross
    Cinema Product Manager
    Panasonic System Solutions Company


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    #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Gross View Post
    If he does commit to AC, then you need to specify the type of ducted AC that will run whisper quiet with the compressor far away outside. Otherwise your current audio issues will pale in comparison to the air conditioning noise.
    Yup. This.

    This is exactly what I'm talking about when I say that sound proofing has to be designed in. The point of a contractor grade HVAC system is cool air. Price is the primary concern; noise may not be considered at all.


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