Thread: Welding

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    Welding
    #1
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    I should know this.. FS7 and welding? Sensor burn?

    Plan to reduce scene DR by blasting the subject up close with LED and using internal ND.. or maybe add more?


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    NO! Internal ND is not good because of the IR and UV, you want to block all of this stuff the right way. Get a welding helmet, one of the auto darkening ones and remove the shade assembly. Put the shade in front of the lens, then white balance through the "clear" shade (still lots of light). Strike an arc and adjust how dark it gets until you have a decent image. Ask the welder how dark they normally set their shade for the process and current (Mig, Tig, Stick, etc) as each process and each current level will dump out a differing amount of light. In general the higher the current, the more light is produced. If it is TIG, then you may want to have the welder buy some of the clear Pyrex cups on the market so you can shoot through them to see the point of the tungsten electrode, they require some slightly different hardware on the torch than the standard cups, they will know what I mean. Check out Weldingtipsandtricks and The Fabrication Series and weld.com on youtube:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcx...rjTVSSUkzZ2Jlg

    https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM0...R1k1wtLuliKmHg

    Also make certain you cover all of your skin and have some kind of safety for your eyes, you'll probably want to make some kind of light block to put in front of the viewfinder to protect your head/face from the same UV/IR that will cause problems with your camera. The light in the viewfinder is not an issue, it only gets as bright as the VF gets, but the stuff soaking into your skin can be very bad for you. And you won't know you've been burned for several hours! Been there, done that. Cotton and leather are the suggested materials, and that includes your feet (no nylon sneakers!!!) This goes especially true if you are shooting flux core MIG, that stuff spits hot droplets EVERYWHERE!
    Last edited by Greg_E; 05-16-2019 at 12:21 PM.


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    All this stuff seems to have the camera very close.

    Id expect to be maybe 15-20ft back with a 200 - inverse square law would lower the intensity.

    Im just looking for cool shots.. not 'how to weld CUs'

    bought this.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    and will plan to blast the scene with my Lupo 2000s from close range.


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    Most things will want a #10 (or darker) lens so you may still need internal ND, but that shade should block all of the UV and IR. Being far away is much safer, but I'd still take some precautions with sunblock being one of them. And still no synthetic fabrics, nothing worse than having a hot blob of metal come flying through and hit you, then suffering the lingering pain of the melted plastic. Not really dangerous but a huge annoyance.

    I just taped the shade assembly into my matte box, it was too thick and oddly shaped to fit correctly. Then had to use a 50 or 85mm because it was a smaller cheapo shade from a Harbor Freight helmet. Need to order a larger one, but need to order a new welder first... My Hyl is dead and the importer has run away so no hope of getting it fixed under warranty (or probably ever), so need something that will hopefully last.


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    Greg - thanks for your thoughts.

    --

    I remembered I got pinged in Zambia by a welder.. maybe 200mm loose shot on a construction site - actually the sensor did not burn.. but I still favour the super ND approach


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    Ave did a video on the cheapest auto dark shade he could find, it was the clear glass in front that stopped most of the harmful stuff. Personally I wouldn't risk the sensor, some kind of welding shade in front just makes sense to me if the welding is going to be in the shot.


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    #8
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    I’d did it a couple of years back, Sam. No issues, though I was crossing my fingers...
    Ben Giles GBFTE BAFTA

    www.matobo.co.uk

    @MatoboLtd


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    #9
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    I've shot loads of welding Sam. Expose for the highlights, watch out for flicker from the welding lamp and make sure you have a clear filter on your lens for protection from the sparks.
    New Website: www.liamhall.net
    TWITTER: @FilmLiam
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    To make cool shots I would aim the camera at the welders helmet and sparkles dropping on the floor instead of the actual welding point.


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