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    #11
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    Neat rig! I'd get a printed or machined focus gear for that lens to tidy it up a little more.

    How well would it balance with a small lens mounted matte box to keep light off the front element?


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    #12
    Senior Member nyvz's Avatar
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    The ronin-S focus motor doesn't add any wireless focus capability does it? I guess maybe you can control it over bluetooth through the app? I guess you can do that with native lenses on the blackmagic IOS app as well without any motor... Any benefit to it over the upcoming Tilta Nucleus Nano? Being able to mount the focus wheel on the rig or give it to an assistant seems like a great option. Does seem like a nice setup if can always get away with pulling your own focus, especially with that big sharp bmpcc4k screen.
    Noah Yuan-Vogel
    http://www.noahyv.com


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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by puredrifting View Post
    Nice! I haven't even heard of this gimbal, good review. I just ordered the Crane 2. I have the Crane 1 but need more weight capacity and the controls on my Crane 1 are going out.
    I tried the Ronin S, great gimbal but too heavy for my needs, I'll be moving from a fairly heavy DSLR to the Fujifilm XT-3, nice and light so I think the Crane 2 is a better choice for me.

    I don't really get or care about focusing knobs, Zooming, apps and all of the other frou-frou, I simply mount a camera with DAF or decent AF/Face Recognition like the Fuji has and shoot.
    For me, gimbal is kind of like better handheld, small, subtle moves, tripod shots without setting up a tripod, an occasional follow talent shot but for me, gimbal is just an extra, only used on
    about 20% of shoots because I only like to move the camera when there is a storytelling reason to move it. The constantly moving/roaming camera aesthetic generally is horrible and I hate it.
    Most of that is from people who have a gimbal and think that it should be used for every shot and don't understand visual language.
    I was just having this discussion with someone. He wanted to mount an external
    monitor (because he couldn't see to focus on the tiny built in screen) and an
    external follow focus (so he could focus while watching said external monitor)
    and so on. Of course then you need the dual handle attachment because now
    it's heavy and you might as well just bought a full size gimbal and put a cinema
    cam on it. To me, I just want something small and light, that has very strong motors
    and gives smooth footage. Then I'll just use a small camera (dedicated gimbal cam)
    that has good autofocus, there are tons of DSLRs or mirrorless cams that will work.
    Currently I'm using a cheap A6500 with Sony emount lenses and the autofocus is great.
    Besides you are usually using a pretty wide lens when on a gimbal anyways.

    I also discovered what you are saying with 'small subtle moves.' Unless you
    are tracking a moving subject, even walking pace is often too fast. And
    walking pace is kind of what you default to with a gimbal, you tend to want
    to walk with it. That's one thing about sliders, even a 24 inch one gives you
    enough travel to add a little motion to a shot and they are easier to do subtle
    motion with. With a gimbal you have to 'rewire' what you think is going
    to look 'natural' and slow down. More than I realized until I started looking
    at my footage in the edit bay. Still gimbals are easy to set up (compared to
    track or even slider) and you can use them for all sorts of shots when you need
    a little motion. I think they are amazing tools now that I own one but I
    do have to work hard at being subtle with it, kind of similar to my drone.
    It adds to the production value of my work but it doesn't become the main
    body of your work either, just adds a 'dash of flavor' if you will.


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    #14
    Senior Member AndreeOnline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
    Neat rig! I'd get a printed or machined focus gear for that lens to tidy it up a little more.
    =) Yes, this was day one—at least I've trimmed it down a bit now. But I agree: perfect is perfect.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
    How well would it balance with a small lens mounted matte box to keep light off the front element?
    Front heavy isn't a problem. It allows you to place the camera farther back where it's easier to make side adjustments, as the P4K is pretty wide and bumps against the Ronin on the camera's right side if the front is too light (unless you offset the camera to the left with an additional plate or cage).

    Quote Originally Posted by nyvz View Post
    The ronin-S focus motor doesn't add any wireless focus capability does it?
    No, I guess it was made specifically for the Ronin-S with one person operation in mind. I can see how investing in a more universal system is a better choice for some, but in fairness, I think this is one of the smaller and cheaper motors out there: $169 for the whole kit including rods, mount and cable. And the wheel on the Ronin-S is very smooth. It's also very easy to setup virtual hard stops.

    Hmmm... I wonder if it can be programmed with the app for time lapses? Haven't checked that...
    @andreemarkefors


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    #15
    Senior Member Jim Arthurs's Avatar
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    So one thing that really ticks me off is when using the Ronin-s is that the latest Panasonic firmware update for the GH5/S has disabled the ability to both control the camera/focus through the PC Tether AND see the video output via the HDMI port. In other words, you can now only have one or the other, not both.

    To clarify, if you're using the PC Tether and HDMI output, both your viewfinder and LCD screen go black with all the obvious ramifications to clean HDMI monitoring or external recording.

    Before the latest firmware update, you could control focus/stop AND monitor via HDMI. Now you have to choose. I just discovered this today out in the field, having not used both together in a few months. Verified on the DJI forum.
    Jim Arthurs


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